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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
As someone asked me how I go about cleaning my PPQ I thought I'd type it up and post it here as well. The below is what works well for me and I prefer to run firearms, even Glocks, fairly 'wet' which some people will not agree with.

Note: I wear Nitrile gloves while undertaking the below.

Cleaning

Hoppes No 9 Solvent (do not breathe this in! I use a little pipette/dropper to take some out of the container and then close the container.)****
Hoppes Elite Gun Cleaner
Hoppers Elite Copper Terminator
BreakFreeCLP

****Note: the Walther manual states to not use Ammonia based cleaning products. Hoppes No 9 is ammonia based. There have been examples of people leaving No 9 on their firearms for several hours or longer and having the blueing on the firearm being stripped. A quick Google shows competing viewpoints on the use of Hoppes No 9 solvent. Personally I just use No 9 on the inside of my barrel and I do not leave it on for extended periods of time and I do not use it on the frame or the slide.

  1. I remove the magazine and safety check the firearm.
  2. I first wipe down the outside of the firearm with a thin cloth/towel including the sights.
  3. I then field strip and place the parts on paper towel/kitchen roll.
  4. I clean the outside of the barrel with dry cleaning patches to remove the grease/debris
  5. I squirt some Gun Cleaner inside the barrel and put it aside for 5+ minutes
  6. I clean the inside of the frame, slide and recoil spring with just cleaning patches (no cleaner on them) to get rid of the worst of the old grease and other debris including in the magazine well, wherever possible ensure you a push debris out of the firearm rather than towards the trigger/striker assemblies, e.g. Clean the magazine well from the top of the firearm downwards.
  7. I then put BreakFree CLP on cleaning patches and re-clean the frame, slide and recoil spring, also using a nylon and brass brush as required. I carefully clean around the firing pin and extractor.
  8. I then run a cleaning patch through the barrel.
  9. I then spray some Gun Cleaner on my Hoppes Bore Snake and run it through the barrel.
  10. I clean the muzzle and feed ramp to remove any debris using nylon brush and cleaning patches with CLP.
  11. Depending on how many rounds I have fired and how thorough the last clean was I will then also:
  12. Put some Copper Terminator on a brush and run it through the inside of the barrel, followed by running a couple of cleaning patches
  13. Put some no. 9 Cleaning Solvent on a cleaning patch and run it through the inside of the barrel
  14. Finally run dry cleaning patches through the barrel until they come out clean
  15. I then use compressed air in a can to blow out any final debris from around trigger, magazine well, striker assembly and springs
Lubrication

BreakFree CLP
Slide-Glide Lite
Shooter's Choice All Weather Grease (comes in a syringe)
Hoppes Lubricating Oil (comes in a small container with a needle applicator)

Before putting the PPQ back together:
  1. I apply a thin film of CLP to the inside of the slide/frame using a cleaning patch.
  2. I apply some CLP to the recoil spring using a cleaning patch.
  3. I apply a thin amount of Shooter's Choice along the inside rails of the slide.
  4. I apply a little oil or CLP on a cleaning patch and run it through the interior of the barrel followed by a dry cleaning patch. The aim should be to have a very thin coating on the inside of the barrel.
  5. I apply some Slide-Glide along the length of the outside of the barrel (where it is circular in cross section)
  6. I put the barrel and recoil spring back together into the slide
  7. I apply a thin amount of Slide-Glide along the length of the bottom of the rails of the slide
  8. I apply a thin amount of Shooter's Choice to the 4 slide rails on the frame
  9. I apply a thin amount of Slide-Glide along the upper surface of the frame where the Slide will run
  10. I use a little bit of Lubricating Oil in the trigger assembly and other springs
  11. If there is anywhere shiny that indicates metal-metal contact/wear it gets a little bit of Slide-Glide or Oil.
  12. I put the frame and slide back together and rack the slide 10-15 times before cleaning of any excess grease. Note that if you have much excess grease it means you applied too much, so next time use less!
  13. I then wipe down the outside of the firearm with a little CLP on a patch before using a Silicon Impregnated cloth for the final wipe.
For magazines I will either just wipe down the outside with a little CLP or I will take them apart and use dry cleaning patches on the inside and a little CLP on the outside. I don't use CLP on the inside (usually) to ensure that the rounds do not get 'gummed up'. If I do use a cleaner, e.g. On a more thorough clean at each 1000 round count, then I ensure I thoroughly dry the interior of the magazine.

The above is based on memory so apologies if I missed anything. The above is also based on me using the PPQ on a weekly basis and I strip and clean after every session. I typically carry my PPQ either IWB without the light or OWB with the light. If carrying then do ensure that excess lubricant/grease/oil is removed so your clothing is not soiled. If the firearm is being stored for an elongated length of time then you may need to adjust the above.

The PPQ doesn't actually need this level of cleaning and can go several thousand rounds without issue. I personally find cleaning therapeutic with music playing in the background.

When my current syringe of Shooter's Choice runs out I will try using Lubriplate 105 in the syringe instead to see how well it works. I don't need to use so many different products however as I have them I've decided to use them. Using just CLP and either Slide-Glide or Shooter's Choice is probably more than sufficient for cleaning and lubricating unless the PPQ is very dirty.

The PPQ can be run much dryer than the above, however the above is my personal preference and approach. The above takes me 20-30 minutes to do and after 3000 rounds I have not had failures or issues with the PPQ.

hth

TheWombat
 

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Discussion Starter #4
No not really, you can shoot thousands of rounds through the PPQ without cleaning and it will still be reliable. I just prefer to clean after each use, sometimes if it is very light use I'll do nothing other than run the Bore snake through the barrel. Majority of the time though I am shooting a few hundred rounds and do the above cleaning. I find it therapeutic with some music playing in the background.

It doesn't take much time to do and the PPQ is my Primary HD/SD firearm.

TheWombat.
 

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Please note that the manuals for the PPQ (page 26) and the PPS (page 27) clearly state NOT to use ammonia based solvents on any Walther firearms. Here is the text from the PPQ manual:

Choice of solvent should be restricted to those products specifically developed for firearms maintenance. Damage to a firearm’s finish may occur if these warnings are ignored. Ammonia based solvents or other strong alkaline solvents, should not be used on any WALTHER firearm.

Hoppe's #9 is an ammonia based solvent and should not be used on Walthers, and generally not on nickel plated surfaces, chrome, or aluminum.

Personally, I have used Mil-Comm cleaning and lubricating products on all my firearms to great effect and protection for quite a few years now and would be what I would recommend.

 

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Discussion Starter #6
I only use the No. 9 on the inside of the barrel and have had no issues, however I have heard of an example where someone used Hoppes excessively on a P22 slide and left it overnight to soak and ended up removing the blueing. I personally do not use Hoppes No 9 on the frame/slide etc.

If in doubt, I would however recommend following the manual, there are plenty of cleaning agents out there and most of them are more than sufficient. As mentioned in my original post, just using CLP and a light grease will be sufficient in many situations for cleaning/lubricating.

HTH

TheWombat
 

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Thanks TheWombat, I to like to clean and inspect my firearms after use because it helps me relax. It's nice to go into the garage and work in a quiet environment. Don't run my guns 'wet' except for the locking block on my 92fs because it's a police trade-in and that's how it was when I got it.
 

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i recommend the use of moly powder lubricant instead of oils for 2 reasons:

1: the oil will trap dirt in areas you dont want it and the moly powder lubricant does not

2: in a conversation with another board member it was brought to my attention that lubricating oils create more resistance in the moving parts and actually increased the weight of the trigger pull by almost 1lb, this may not be the same for the ppq but reason number 1 is enough for me not to use it
 

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i recommend the use of moly powder lubricant instead of oils for 2 reasons:

1: the oil will trap dirt in areas you dont want it and the moly powder lubricant does not

2: in a conversation with another board member it was brought to my attention that lubricating oils create more resistance in the moving parts and actually increased the weight of the trigger pull by almost 1lb, this may not be the same for the ppq but reason number 1 is enough for me not to use it
Moly powder lubricant? Who makes this? Yeah, I'm a noob. :)
 

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Mil-Comm products are what I use and recommend. Excellent cleaning and lubrication products and non-toxic. (I still use nitrile gloves anyway). The TW25B is their grease and the MC2500 is the oil. They also have cleaner/degreaser and bore cleaner. I've used them since way before the NRA endorsed them or they were more well known.

Mil-Comm Products - TW-25B synthetic lubricant protectant grease or oil for firearms, fishing reels, locks and hardware.
I use Mil-Comm products as well. It is super-slick and, as mentioned, non-toxic. My PPQ runs like a sewing machine with this stuff! Very highly recommended.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So since we can't use this brand or that brand on the PPQ, what are some acceptable brands to use? I was thinking of trying some M-Pro 7.
Most brands are fine, even Hoppes products are fine. It is only Ammonia based cleaners (e.g. Hoppes No 9 solvent) where there are concerns and warnings in the Walther manual. Some people (including myself) are using even these products for specific uses e.g. inside the barrel. I for example use it for my 1000 round clean on the inside of the barrel which is more indepth then my quick fields strip and clean after a range visit.

If you are cleaning your firearm regularly it reduces the need for super strong cleaners since the deposit is not building up and hardening over time, so you may have no need for an Ammonia based solvent and there are good copper removers around now without Ammonia.

These days most of the cleaning products are going to be more than suitable. Much of it comes down to personal preference and what people have been using for years and people will be passionate about what products they think are best. I happen to have Hoppes in my box of bits so that is what I use for now, as it runs out I'll look at what is on special offer or being recommended and try that - which could be Hoppes again!

A while back on a different forum someone queried Hoppes directly on the use of their #9. This is what their response was:
Hoppe’s #9 is a safe solvent for all guns. However, prolonged contact with nickel, chrome or aluminum is not recommended with any Hoppe’s solvents. In addition chrome or aluminum should not be soaked or submerged in any Hoppe’s solvent. The reason is that the slightest scratch or nick in the plating, the solvents will penetrate the flaw and dissolve the underlying copper substrate & cause the chrome/nickel plating to chip & peel further. Therefore, when using on plated or lined items keep the solvent to a minimum.

Obviously you need to make your own decisions as even milder cleaners can be used inappropriately, as can brass brushes etc. Ultimately the forum and posters can't be held accountable so please do use common sense.

HTH

TheWombat
 
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