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Discussion Starter #1
I have several spots the ejection port of the slide with marks that I can't seem to remove. I am wondering if you have any suggestions on what can remove these. I am pretty sure they are copper spots left from the ejecting cases, but I have yet to find anything that can remove these. I figured I would open it to the more experienced shooters and see if anyone had any suggestions.

I have tried Outers Nitro Solvent, Hoppes #9, Rem Oil, Outers Tri Care. I understand that the last two are not very good solvents, but I wanted to try something else.

I have included some pictures to for your knowledge of what I am talking about. It is really not a big deal, but I want to get an handle on this before it gets too bad.

Thanks in advance.

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj178/ispeed/DSC00816.jpg
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj178/ispeed/DSC00818.jpg
 

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This should be interesting. I have the same type of marks and haven't had any luck removing them but I also haven't tried very hard either...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The only information I ran across before posting this was from Shipwreck about 2-3 weeks ago where he suggested Hoppes to someone. I have tried all solvents I know of and are available locally without special order. I am asking if anyone knows for sure before I order something if a particular solvent will work on removing these marks.

Thanks
 

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Hoppe's Elite seems to do a good job removing what others leave behind, for me anyway. In fact, I stopped using it because I was afraid it was too good. After using it on my new P22 I noticed the lettering on the slide seemed tarnished......like it removed finish and stained the letters. If you use it, use it sparingly and only on the dirtiest parts of your weapon.
 

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I wouldn't sweat those marks. I myself am a self-admitted "gun finish nazi" and like my Walthers to be absolutely spotless and perfectly blued. However, those gold specks are the exception - I don't bother with them. Chances are you will hurt the finish on your gun if you start attacking them too aggressivly.

Think of them as battle scars brought back from the range. :) They let observers know that your gun ain't no "sittin-in-a-glass-case" pansy gun too good to get it's slide dirty. No, your gun means BUSINESS!! And it has the golden scars to prove it! And they look fabulous!

Well, OK, I might have gone overboard there at the end, but give it a try. At the very least you should know that every gun will have those marks and it isn't unique to yours.
 

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Apply Hoppe's No.9 very liberally with a Q-tip and just let it sit for 24-48 hours. THEN rub it with a rag. It'll come off.

M
 

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Like MGMike said : apply a wet cotton patch (soaked in Hoppe's nr. 9) and let it work overnight. I would remove the slide from the frame though to avoid spilling on the frame (shouldn't harm but you never know). Also beware of the liquid not traveling (by capillarity through the extractor) to the red paint of the loaded chamber indicator.
 

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I found out, quite by accident, that cold blue solution (in this case, Birchwood Casey's Perma Blue) darkens those brass marks to the point where they completely disappear.
 

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The route with Hoppe's would seem the best choice, since Hoppes will remove copper fouling, this brass transfer should come off as well. Just don't rub to hard or you'll go right through the black finish on the slide.

Cold blue might just work because of the acid in it. It may be just strong enough to dissolve the brass. Not sure what it does to the finish?
 

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Hoppe's Elite and a toothbrush wil get it loose. After that get some tetra or Mil-tec and put a light coating there. It helps prevent/makes easy clean up.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Follow up ...

After 48 hours of Hoppes Elite with continuous saturations ...

wait for it ...

wait for it ...




The spots are still there. Nothing. It had no effect. I used a QTip and soaked the areas with Hoppes Elite then scrubbed with a tootbrush for a couple of minutes. I then would take another QTip and saturate the areas and leave the slide sitting. I would repeat this process approx every 8 hours over the course of 2 days. Sometimes sooner, sometimes later. I never left the slide dry and always left the slide in a warm room to help with the reactions.

Conclusions ... those marks are there to stay. I can tell that there is slight discoloration of the black slide, but the "gold" marks are still there and don't appear to be dulled in anyway.

Any suggestions from the audience? If so, I think I am done unless it is a fast fix. Someone else can do the long version.
 

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using the brass (or bronze or copper or whatever they are) spiral brushes you use to clean the barrel works pretty well for me, just oil it up a bit first.
 
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