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Lots of reading here I haven't had a chance to get to yet!

Just my two cents... CCI Subsonics cycle like a champ in my p22. I have the new Q version.

I gave it the thorough 1911-style fluff'n'buff, polished down trigger ear bars, and use dry moly + a thin wiping of moly grease as lube.
 

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Worn frame

Crete, therein lies the ultimate problem with a zinc frame. It might be the angle but there appears to be a larger gap between the left side of the sear and the hammer hook. I suppose some very thin shims could be added to each side of the hammer to tighten it back up in the frame. I'm assuming the hammer's pivot pin and hammer hole haven't worn. If the frame is worn...I don't know what you do about that. M1911
To repair a worn frame, use Liquid Metal Epoxy. I think Locktite makes one. Cleaning is extremely important, but very easy. Most epoxies list appropriate solvents in their directions. Acetone seems to be universal. Liquid metal has excellent adhesion, structural and low friction properties.
 

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Hey m1911 it's been a while ive I've been on, and it looks like you've been busy modding again.

I just want to add that, this sounds like it might be related to what I run into with reloading for IPSC.

what we're looking for is something called power factor. it's calculated by using bullet weight, and velocity and I think diameter.
 

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What I found was that it is very important that the slide move smoothly. To that end, I concentrated my efforts on those areas where drag is encountered either moving forward or backward. I did the rounding off the tabs part. That only marginally helped. Then I worked on the slider. I took a small amount of material rounding off the hammer ever so slightly. Then I romoved material from the 'pin' which rotates with the safety. Since it contacts the hammer and seemed to catch on it when moving it slowly. I removed enough material until the slide didn't catch so much that it stopped. The other mods I did were 1. to round off the barrel entry so the rounds don't catch on the edge. 2. To round out the mag entry a little bit to make reloading easier. At this point, I haven't gotten any jams or failure to fires that I could blame on the P22. I do get the wild ejections but I am working on replacing the ejector. BTW, I have been using the Winchester 525 bulk and CCI stingers. Both function very well.
 

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Where to get a recoil spring

This is my first post on this forum and I have been reading this thread and am interested in trying some of the spring mods, but I don't want to damage the spring that came with the gun without a stock spring to replace it if the shortened spring doesn't work well. I have been unable to find a replacement recoil spring on the web. Any suggestions?

My P22 is new. I have four mags for it and they all do the same thing. The first round (or two) don't cycle, and then I re-rack the slide and the rest of them cycle OK. This has happened with several mags full of 10 rounds. I have tried several types of ammo (Eg. Remington Thunderbolt or Federal Blue box {not at home so I can't give exact type by looking at box}) but that was all that was available when I bought the gun a week or so ago. I can't find any CCI or hi velocity ammo anywhere to try the more powerful rounds to see how they work. I have wondered if the spring in the mags is too strong and creating too much friction at the top of the mag, and then when one or more are gone, the friction is less so the rest cycle ok. The edges of the top of the mags feels smooth, no burrs and the same thing happens with more than one mag, so it is probably not just one mag that is the problem, or they are all the same.

Suggestions?
 

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I guess I should have done more research before I bought my P22 a week or so ago. How do I know if I have the "new Q version" or the standard old version? It has a 2013 manufacture code stamped on it. I didn't see a Q.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
I guess I should have done more research before I bought my P22 a week or so ago. How do I know if I have the "new Q version" or the standard old version? It has a 2013 manufacture code stamped on it. I didn't see a Q.
Welcome Grampatim, you have a BD coded pistol and it is the new Q model. I'd put up a picture...but, it would look just like the one you bought. :) There is no Q, that is just in the part number for the pistol....I think. M1911
 

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Discussion Starter #49
This is my first post on this forum and I have been reading this thread and am interested in trying some of the spring mods, but I don't want to damage the spring that came with the gun without a stock spring to replace it if the shortened spring doesn't work well. I have been unable to find a replacement recoil spring on the web. Any suggestions?

My P22 is new. I have four mags for it and they all do the same thing. The first round (or two) don't cycle, and then I re-rack the slide and the rest of them cycle OK. This has happened with several mags full of 10 rounds. I have tried several types of ammo (Eg. Remington Thunderbolt or Federal Blue box {not at home so I can't give exact type by looking at box}) but that was all that was available when I bought the gun a week or so ago. I can't find any CCI or hi velocity ammo anywhere to try the more powerful rounds to see how they work. I have wondered if the spring in the mags is too strong and creating too much friction at the top of the mag, and then when one or more are gone, the friction is less so the rest cycle ok. The edges of the top of the mags feels smooth, no burrs and the same thing happens with more than one mag, so it is probably not just one mag that is the problem, or they are all the same.

Suggestions?
First you need to shoot it and then shoot it some more. If you are really into checking it out much before shooting then remove the slide and check the underside to see if the trigger bar ears are digging into the little disconnect ramps. If so you might need to polish those ears. Next to that what you are running into is normal. Weak rounds will not cycle the P22 until it is really old and the springs are weak. I had to clip four coils and reduce my hammer spring tension before I could make Federal brown box 550 bulk, load #750 work in my pistol. I sent an e-mail to Federal but I don't expect to hear back from them. Beautiful ammo and the specs are very similar to Remington Golden Bullets but that is where the similarity ends. The Rems feel like magnums compared to the Feds. Winchester is no better. These rounds work fine in rifles but the short barrel pistols don't like them. The Feds are on 20 fps slower than the Rems and weigh the same...36 gr. But, there is no comparison.

The P22 likes a snappy round and that cures many function issues. Unfortunately no one can be picky these days so I recently modified my '09 AK pistol to handle the Feds. I will need more recoil springs for shooting thousands of rounds of more powerful ammo....that is if I can find any.

Cock the hammer and leave it cocked. Lock the slide back. Load the mags and leave them loaded. They will all soften up a bit...especially with shooting but it is frustrating not to be able to just drop any ole .22 in there and have at it....but this is typical of .22 ammo. The old saying is...find an ammo your firearm likes. The new saying is.....where the heck is the .22 ammo. M1911
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Hey m1911 it's been a while ive I've been on, and it looks like you've been busy modding again.

I just want to add that, this sounds like it might be related to what I run into with reloading for IPSC.

what we're looking for is something called power factor. it's calculated by using bullet weight, and velocity and I think diameter.
Hey Boomer, always wasting time around some gun forums...:) I understand what you are saying and even have the formula for calculating it. What I don't understand is the difference in similar spec'd ammo. Take Federal # 750, 36 gr hp and 1260 fps muzzle velocity. Take Rem GBs, 36 gr hp and 1280 fps but the RGBs kick much harder and cycle the slide much better...same for Mini Mags. What is the deal there, that is what I want to know. Different burn rates for the powder??? Beats me. M1911
 

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Hey Boomer, always wasting time around some gun forums...:) I understand what you are saying and even have the formula for calculating it. What I don't understand is the difference in similar spec'd ammo. Take Federal # 750, 36 gr hp and 1260 fps muzzle velocity. Take Rem GBs, 36 gr hp and 1280 fps but the RGBs kick much harder and cycle the slide much better...same for Mini Mags. What is the deal there, that is what I want to know. Different burn rates for the powder??? Beats me. M1911
I have been using bulk winchesters very successfully. They are 40 grain 1340 fps. I also have some CCI Stinger, which tended to miss eject before I changed out the extractor. I did not test the CCIs but I did run about 70 rounds of the bulk WIN. I noticed that the CCI had a much longer 'brass' and this may contribute to the problem above. The only issue I have in 70+ rounds was a non-fire which occurred after a clip change. I think the safety drifted down. After reloading and checking everything, I didn't have another issue.

Thanks. BTW, the new extractor works great. I now want to look into stopping the safety drift.

Oh, and I joined a shooting group and I am getting in some much needed practice. My NRA 10/10 score is 8. But I've done some sighting and know I can get it to 10 [perfect] consistantly soon. I shot 5 at 25 yards and got 30/50. That needs to improve. 25 years ago I would have averaged 45/50 points
 

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Cock the hammer and leave it cocked. Lock the slide back. Load the mags and leave them loaded. They will all soften up a bit...M1911

Thanks for the suggestions. I already loaded the mags and left them sitting. It didn't occur to me to lock back the slide and let it sit that way for a while too. I'll give it a try. I have a variety of .22 LR ammo but all I had to shoot it in is a couple of rifles, bolt action and lever, neither of which need any power to cycle. So I never noticed the difference between power ratings, speed and weight of bullet, or cared about it before. Now that choice is limited, I wish I had bought some mini mags or CCI stingers, just to see what they would do in the P22.

I am not sure what trigger ears you are talking about. I think you mean the little flat square metal pieces on each side of the slide that move with the trigger? How do you best polish them? Is a Dremel with felt tip and rubbing or polishing compound the right answer? How aggressive do you get with the polish and how do you keep or get the resulting grit out of the mechanism after you are done? Would an aerosol solvent blast everything out enough after polishing or should I just use a compressor nozzle to blast out any residual grit or both (air then solvent)?

Someone mentioned a "1911 fluff and buff". I am not sure exactly what that is or how to do it? Can someone give specific directions to do it?
 

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Discussion Starter #53 (Edited)
Short thread on the trigger bar ears from the FAQ section above. The steel ears are hit by the rearward moving slide each time you fire. This disconnects the sear from the hammer. if the top, front edge of the ears are sharp they can slice off pieces of the Zinc slide. 1911 fluff and buff came from some of my threads regarding this and that and the bible stuff which is a collection of threads on the pistol I did. M1911

http://www.waltherforums.com/forum/faq-p22/30972-revisiting-p22-trigger-bar-ear-problem.html

If you want to quote anything in a post you can hit 'quote' down at the bottom right corner and then delete anything in the post you don't want to repeat. you can also type quote with brackets on each end.....type in whatever you want to quote or paste it and end it with bracket/quotebracket.. and you will get a quote like this.

My P22 now has a 1 lb 8 oz trigger in SA. M1911
 

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Short thread on the trigger bar ears from the FAQ section above. The steel ears are hit by the rearward moving slide each time you fire. This disconnects the sear from the hammer. if the top, front edge of the ears are sharp they can slice off pieces of the Zinc slide.
Thanks for the pics and the instructions in the link you posted. I opened up the gun last night and there are already small nicks in each side of the slide where the squared off trigger bars must be digging into the angled ramp. I will look tonight to see if I can figure out how to take the trigger bar out of the gun to take that sharp forward edge off of the bars. It looks from your pics that a single pin holds it in.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
You basically have to take the whole pistol apart. You have to separate the frame halves. You don't have to remove the hammer or sear but you do have to work the rear arm of the trigger bar out from under the hammer strut. Keep a thumb over the side of the hammer to hold it in position as you do this or it can slip off the right side of the frame as the hammer spring is still engaged. Yes everything is reassembled on the right side of the frame. If you are doing this you should look at the threads on other areas that should be lightly buffed on the trigger bar. Most areas don't touch anything but the rear of the bar has some areas of importance.

The most difficult thing in the entire reassembly process is pressing the little springs back under the right half of the frame, the springs that press down on the mag safety foot. I remove the inner one myself. You have to place one in the slot in the mag foot and carefully compress it, then slide it under the half ledge on the right side of the frame. Then carefully handle the frame while you put the left side back in place. You will have to wiggle the hammer around a bit to make the hammer pin drop in the hole provided for it on the left side of the frame. Don't forget the ejector. It fits loose over two pins and will easily fall out while fitting the halves together. Stick just a tiny bit of grease under it to make it stay in place if you have to....then wipe off any excess grease or wash it off. And don't be pulling the trigger back while it is out of the pistol or you will weaken the trigger bar spring and it won't hold the trigger bar up properly and you will have to disassemble again to unwind it. When you assemble the trigger onto the frame you should actually have to pull rearward just a bit against the trigger spring to properly position the trigger. M1911
 

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You basically have to take the whole pistol apart.
I did find your P22 bible through another thread. I appreciate the pictures and detailed instructions about disassembly, reassembly, parts orientation and some mods. Thanks for the time you put into that. I saved it to my iPad and I am sure I will find it very useful. I have to find some very fine sandpaper to bevel off those now blunt/rounded edges of the ears. I do see some wear already on the slide from the trigger ears so I suspect that must be causing some of the drag in the gun. I did leave it with the slide locked back for a few days and kept the mags loaded to maybe weaken the springs. After that the first two mags cycled well from the first round to the last. I reloaded and then had to rack the slide a few times between the first few shots to get them to cycle again for the last half of the mag, with no change in type of ammo. It is hard to believe that it got gunked up enough to slow down the cycling so fast with only a couple of mags through it, but that is what happened. It was freshly cleaned and oiled before I used it, but I have not found any of the dry moly lube in the local stores that you mentioned. Maybe the oil is collecting gunk faster than I thought possible. I found some of the dry moly online and will order it and try it.

After putting a few mags through it, I took the frame out of the polymer handle and immediately heard the tiny little V shaped spring that goes under the slide stop lever fling off and land on the carpeted floor where my dog was playing when the lever also popped off onto the floor. I understood/remembered your note to hold it on or bag it when taking the frame out after it was too late. Luckily, I was able to kick the dog out before he walked over that part of the floor and then with a flashlight, found it ion the carpet. I took off one side and sort of looked over the innards of the gun but decided to not disassemble it any further this time out and was able to get it back together with reference to your bible and some jimmying of the side and the hammer to align the pins. During all of this I had a not so irrational fear of ending up with a bag of parts to take to a gunsmith to reassemble for me and decided to put it back together and shoot it a bit more before I decided to do surgery on a brand new gun. However, I think rounding or beveling off those trigger bar ears is in my future.

I still can't find any high power ammo to try before I decide to make the modifications you describe to make it cycle standard bulk ammo, of which I have a bunch.
 
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