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Discussion Starter #1
I'd like for members to lock their slide back, inspect the square hole where the slide stop spring is visible, and report back what they find.
Also, please include the date code (not the serial number...)
My goal here is to pin down when the fix for the "slide lock" issue came to pass since this seems to be the most common problem associated with the PPS, and the biggest deterrant to potential buyers who have done their research...

This is the hole...(obsolete slide stop)


(fixed slide stop)


Also, for anyone who has sent their PPS back for repair, please note that as well.

Thanks,
SB
 

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AK on the slide
Old style stop

What is the difference? Should I be concerned with having the old one? PPS functions normally.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Date code is the "AI" aft of the antler, right?
Yup, you got it!

And dave, just to be clear, you have the old style (uncovered spring), right?


AK on the slide
Old style stop

What is the difference? Should I be concerned with having the old one? PPS functions normally.
With the old style stop, there is a potential for the spring to jump off the track and end up underneath the slide stop, locking the slide open, and rendering the weapon completely inoperable.
The fix is noted in my original post, in picture number 2 - notice how the spring is covered by the "tang".
I hate to sound negative, but I feel that with the old style slide stop, there is an everpresent potential for this failure.

I had 2600 rounds through my AI ('08) PPS when the slide locked back and I had to send it to S&W for repair. What I got sent back, I feel, was slide stop V 2.0.

Thanks to everyone for their participation
 

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And dave, just to be clear, you have the old style (uncovered spring), right?
Looks like it.
I should probably order the part(s), but it doesn't seem too likely to self-destruct with some minor fiddling ... got a part # and source for it commercially? Or should I roll the S&W dice and just call and ask politely? (it has worked every time before, but always on the P22)

From your other thread, I gather that you got a new latch lever, is it a new spring as well?



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Discussion Starter #8
Looks like it.
I should probably order the part(s), but it doesn't seem too likely to self-destruct with some minor fiddling ... got a part # and source for it commercially? Or should I roll the S&W dice and just call and ask politely? (it has worked every time before, but always on the P22)

From your other thread, I gather that you got a new latch lever, is it a new spring as well?

If I had known there was an updated slide stop out, I would've called S&W. What has me confused though, is that when my failure occured, a contact within the repair department told me that I needed an updated spring, with a longer "leg". He made no mention of a new slide stop.
This leads me to believe that if you were to call, you'd have to get someone on the phone who can acknowledge there is indeed a new slide stop, which may (or may not) be difficult.

I don't believe that the old slide stop is prone to "self-destruct", however I believe with a new slide stop the pistol can be made even more efficient and less prone to a catastrophic failure in the event of a defensive situation.

I cannot determine whether or not they replaced the slide stop spring as well, but since they seem to have replaced several other major components (such as the striker) this leads me to believe I also got a new slide stop spring.
I mean, why not replace it, right?
 

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I cannot determine whether or not they replaced the slide stop spring as well, but since they seem to have replaced several other major components (such as the striker) this leads me to believe I also got a new slide stop spring.
I mean, why not replace it, right?
If I have it apart that far and can get a fresh spring, the old one would go in the parts drawer.

I wonder if there is a way to jigger things so the failure is to just not lock open the slide ... beyond pulling the entire slide-latch assembly and losing that feature now.

I'll have to give S&W a call and see how much for the parts or if they'll send them as a freebie again.



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Discussion Starter #10
I wonder if there is a way to jigger things so the failure is to just not lock open the slide ... beyond pulling the entire slide-latch assembly and losing that feature now.
I really have no idea if that would be possible.
As we've seen just in the few posts of this thread, there are many out there with older versions of the slide stop who haven't had the slide-lock failure.

The way the old slide stop is engineered, I don't know if you could fiddle with it to prevent it from happening. Like i said, it happened to me at 2600 rounds (give or take), and had never happend before.
I have no idea what could've exacerbated this failure, as I was not the one shooting the gun at the time of the failure, go figure.

I DO think, however, that the shooter would almost certainly have to be pushing the slide stop *UP* (perhaps inadvertently) with his/her thumb while firing, as the slide stop has to be up in order for the spring to become unseated, jump its track, and land below the slide stop.

I know I've used the word "slide stop" umpteen times in this post, but I feel it's important to be clear in diagnosing a failure.

Please let us know what S&W has to say regarding the new part, and many thanks for taking a step to help figure out this whole issue.:cool:
 

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I may not have done this right. The date code is BA (letters to the immediate left of the antlers) which, as I understand it is a 2010 build, which makes sense as the fired casing is from 2010. Again, I DO have a tab.
 
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