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Discussion Starter #1
Anybody changed barrels on their PP/PPK/PPKS's. I'm fairly handy with tools. Straightforward job or is this something better left to a gunsmith. Any advice would be appreciated.

thanks,
Rick
 

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The problems are the radial alignment of the barrel and the tolerance of the barrel/frame fit. Experience and "feel" are very useful here, and there are special tools which simplify matters and prevent mistakes.

Take it to a gunsmith who has done it before.
 

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The problems are the radial alignment of the barrel and the tolerance of the barrel/frame fit. Experience and "feel" are very useful here, and there are special tools which simplify matters and prevent mistakes.

Take it to a gunsmith who has done it before.
P.S. Also the retaining pin hole in the frame may not line up exactly with the slot in the barrel, and there is not much room for error. It is easy to bulge the chamber wall when driving in a misaligned pin. If the misalignment is fore and aft, the hole might have to be reamed for a slightly oversize pin, and that too is a delicate operation as the barrel is so thin.

Again, it's really a job for a gunsmith who's done it before...successfully.

M
 

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I was going to say search, because I posted on this a year ago or so, but my post is gone into cyberspace.

It is easy to change out barrels on the PP series, getting the new one in is tricky but not hard. If you are brave and want to master this, then go for it, if not, take it to a smith as mentioned above.

1. Remove slide, magazine and grips (bullets too of course).
2. Place the frame on top of a vice or solid surface and tap the barrel retaining pin with a roll pin punch, right to left but I don't think it matters. This may be the hardest part if that pin is stuck un there, I found that a carpenters finish nail punch works well and a ball ping hammer.
3. Use a raw hide mallet and tap the muzzel end of the barrel back until it clears the frame, you may have to give it a good wack to free it up, done.
4. Put the new barrel in and lign up the extractor notch and tap it into the frame until it stops. I recomend grease so if you want to do this again it is easier.
5. Now, you need to lign up the ejector notch with the notch in the frame, if it is close just stick a small punch in there and pry it to line it up. If it is not close, knock the barrel out and start again.
6. Once the extractor notches are lined up, drive your barrel retaining pin back in.

It isn't hard, just make sure you use tools softer than the steel and you won't damage anything. I use brass punches. Be careful to protect your frame with something so it doesn't get scuffed up, I use that blue masking tape.


Hope that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Guys, appreciate the help. Let you know what happens. I'm turning one of my PP's into a PPKs. I was lucky enough to aquire a PPK barrel and slide plus a few other parts off of Ebay, before they quit accepting firearms parts:(. It'll be in .32acp and since I had 2 PP's in that caliber laying around I figured it would be something different.
 

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No kidding! That is exactly what I did. You will have one more hurdle, when you try to install the ppk barrel the pin hole will not line up with the frame. It is close, but not close enough to drive the pin in and if you force it you will damage your barrel. All you need to do is install the ppk barrel and look thru the pin hole to see where you need to remove metal, then take the barrel back out and use a dremel to widen the pin slot in the barrel the direction that you need to go. Go slow, don't remove too much, there isn't that much room to play with.

I have since bought a real German ppk, so I just returned my PP to its original slide and barrel a couple weeks ago. For some reason I actually enjoyed shooting it as a ppk/s more than a pp, but I think that was because the sights were better on the newer ppk slides, and my pp is from 1968 and had the old style sights.

Have fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
No kidding! That is exactly what I did. You will have one more hurdle, when you try to install the ppk barrel the pin hole will not line up with the frame. It is close, but not close enough to drive the pin in and if you force it you will damage your barrel. All you need to do is install the ppk barrel and look thru the pin hole to see where you need to remove metal, then take the barrel back out and use a dremel to widen the pin slot in the barrel the direction that you need to go. Go slow, don't remove too much, there isn't that much room to play with.

I have since bought a real German ppk, so I just returned my PP to its original slide and barrel a couple weeks ago. For some reason I actually enjoyed shooting it as a ppk/s more than a pp, but I think that was because the sights were better on the newer ppk slides, and my pp is from 1968 and had the old style sights.

Have fun.
Thanks, appreciate the advice on barrel removal. I was able to get my old barrel out with very little trouble. I've got everything ready to go back together as soon as my parts arrive. I had a .32 PPKs in stainless spotted in an area gunshop last year, but I was short of funds at the time(well actually most the time:) ) and could not snag it up in time. So this little conversion will work for a while until something else pops up. Since I'll have a PPKs in .32 I may just hunt one down in .380, there's a lot more of those floating around.
 

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If your ppk slide and barrel you are waiting on are German made, you will have a far better gun quality wise, than the stainless Interarms PPK/s you missed out on. A stainless ppk/s in 32 is a rare bird since only Interarms made stainless guns here in Alabama, most were made in 380. I once had an Interarms stainles ppk in 380 and it was not near the quality of workmanship that my German made PP and PPK are. 32 is much more pleasant to shoot for target practice and personally I think a 32 fmj will penetrate better than a 380 hp, but others would dissagree with me.

don't forget, you will need to get a ppk length recoil spring, Wolff is a good place to get one from quick.
 
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