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Discussion Starter #1,121
Toolmaker, welcome to the forum. Are you a toolmaker by trade? If so you should realize the importance of eye protection. Firearms typically have several springs in them and many times under compression. Glad you didn't get hurt. I wear glasses, people are always saying you should get contacts. Nope, I've had my glasses struck a number of times during 40+ years of construction. Eye protection always when firing and during disassembly of firearms.

Yeah, pretty much sucks to pull your concealed carry and have it fly apart ....you could probably get away while the perp was laughing. 1917
 

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A FEW HELPFUL HINTS ON THE CCP. THE LOCKING CATCH AND FIRING PIN SPRING ARE HELD IN PLACE BY A ROLL PIN THAT IS CRITICAL IN ADJUSTMENT. ONLY STICKS INTO THE SPRING CHANNEL BY ABOUT 1/8", BUT TOO DEEP IN CHANNEL AND YOU CAN'T PUSH IN THE LOCK CATCH, FOR TAKEDOWN, BUT NOT DEEP ENOUGH INTO CHANNEL, AND THE LOCK CATCH AND SPRING WILL FLY OUT THE REAR.
THE PISTON AND PISTON TUBE MUST BE CLEANED REGULARLY OR THERE WILL BE ENOUGH BUILD UP TO KEEP THE PISTON AND ATTACHED SLIDE FROM FULL TRAVEL AND WILL NOT CATCH THE FIRING PIN ON THE SEAR.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,124 (Edited)
Welcome BOBLOCH11, The function of the original CCP striker, striker spring and counter plate hook is pretty well understood. This is a railless firearm. The barrel holds the muzzle while the rear of the slide is held in place by the striker and spring assembly, the latter of which is held in place by the forward facing counter plate hook. There are two roll pins that hold the counter plate in place and both are critical. What we saw during the recall was that some of the forward roll pins were filled to make them stronger. Had some broken?

The small pin inserted through the right side of the slide is tasked with keeping the rear of the spring assembly from flying out of the rear of the slide. The locking catch that needs to be pressed in (striker released) can be rotated in a manner that lets the rear of the spring assembly be removed from the slide. The striker itself will not be able to move out of the rear of the slide's striker channel unless the pin is pressed flush with the inside of the channel. This has actually been an issue for some owners who perhaps inadvertently pressed the pin in while using a screwdriver to press the catch in. The catch does not need to be rotated to release the rear of the slide from the counter plate hook.

You are correct that if the pin is flush then nothing is left to retain the entire assembly....another reason the striker is to be released before disassembly. But as designed the small pin is to hold the rear of the spring assembly inside of the slide as the slide is removed. The good news if there is any is that the new CCP employees an entirely different method of freeing the rear of the slide. Gone is the little pin. Gone is the need for a special tool. Full disclosure....I don't have either model. There has been a lot of discussion regarding the design of the original poorly designed dismounting process. I might add that it took Ruger from 1949 to 1918 to redesign the take down process on the tricky MK series pistols. 1917
 

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Well this hasn't been posted to in a while, but I received a new CCP M2 last week and unfortunately, experience an issue out of the box. I haven't even fired it yet, but in anticipation, I reversed the mag release and when I inserted a magazine, I found that it wouldn't go in. The mag catch snags on the top of the right side of the magazine, necessitating pressing the mag release to insert the magazine. I emailed Walther and they want it back with a 3 week turn-around. Have read a couple posts from lefties that find it easier to dump a mag with the left middle finger. That may be an option, but wondering if anyone else ran into this issue. I searched without results.
 

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Hello, has anyone found a way to deal with the overheating problem? Also, are there any recommended aftermarket grips or stick on pads to deal with the palm hammering you get with NATO ball?

I got my CCP M2 the other day and took it to the range with 200 rounds of NATO ball and a bunch of defense ammo to test. Not a single malfunction of any kind. I did break it all the way down and clean everything before I shot it so that probably helped, but it had obviously been test fired at the factory, not cleaned at all, then stuck in the box. It was filthy inside and full of crappy industrial grease. The disassembly and reassembly was pretty straightforward. I have a Makarov that I've carried for years so I was used to the way the CCP locks up. Pointing it skyward and dangling in the gas piston was new, but also pretty easy.

I have a total of 3 mags and I found that shooting them all in succession, even slow fire, caused the gun to heat up to where it was literally smoking (burning off CLP) and even melted some of the foam in the factory case. It took a ridiculously long time to cool down also.

On top of that, I discovered that the SoftCoil system transfers the muzzle flip energy straight back into your hand instead of up. I fired 300 rounds in about 90 minutes and my hand hurt for 3 days.

The trigger... That thing is just weird, but I did get used to it and I did definitely start to feel it work itself out after about the first 100 rounds. It's weird and unexpectedly clunky for a Walther but it works. After I got used to it I was shooting golf ball sized groups at 7 and then 10 yards so I'm extremely pleased with the accuracy of the gun.

All that said, with 0 failures of any kind, several awesome holster options, stainless slide and stainless mags, I'm loving this as a carry gun. I can't see being in a situation where I fire enough to have the heat problem be a problem, but I do want to be able to practice more and maybe even run some 3 Gun stages with this thing.
 
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