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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I though perhaps we needed another thread where discussion of lubrication, function of internal components, pictures, "how to", etc. could be discussed without being in the running problems thread.



In the rear frame component parts #7, 11, 12, 16, 19 and 20 don't move.

#9 and #8 are the block and spring that press up on the bottom of the cylinder.

Parts # 13 and 33 are springs that press upward on the rear of the sear and connector respectively. Parts #17 and 18 engage the manual safety as far as I can tell.

So, regarding a smooth trigger pull the trigger bar drags across the plunger, rotates the cylinder which pivots the fronts of the connector and sear up which moves the rear down. As long as all of these parts don't have any rough edges and move freely that would seem to be all that is required....that and a little Hoppes.

Lubrication and cleaning. Let's face it. This pistol is going to get dirty when firing...heck, most firearms do but the gas chamber will add to this. So, learn to break the pistol down and clean it. I don't see anything tricky about cleaning and I expect field stripping, spraying with Gun-scrubber or similar, taking a tooth brush to the parts. Then spray again, blow dry, spray with Remington Remoil, spry again, then apply a light coat of oil, like Hoppes, to the outside of the barrel/recoil spring, striker channel/spring, center cut that runs down the counter plate, bottom of the breech where it might slide against the lower frame insert, sear and connector top surfaces and pivot points. The Remoil with teflon should provide adequate lubrication to all other small, locations not easily reached. Reassemble, fire, repeat cleaning. I would think that would cover all the lubrication your need. Clean the chamber, barrel and gas cylinder of course. Don't lube the gas chamber.

I've purchased new firearms that were basically dry inside and I've purchased firearms full of white grease. I clean and lube to my preferences and then go shooting. I can't believe this pistol has been out this long now and no one has removed the grips and stripped that puppy. I'd have done that the first hour I owned one. :) M1911
 

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I can't believe this pistol has been out this long now and no one has removed the grips and stripped that puppy. I'd have done that the first hour I owned one. :) M1911
That's pretty much how I clean and lube. I suspect that like myself most of us are afraid that if we pulled the grips we'd be opening Pandora's Box!:D
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If Germans can put it together....I can put it together. I will admit that the firing pin assembly and associated parts in the S&W M&P 22 took a little thought. No special tools....but a little though as to....now prezackly how did they put this together. :) M1911

Oh yeah...stay out of the inside of watches and digital cameras. Just buy a new one.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Trigger not resetting. I've read a couple of on-line reviews (magazine types) and a couple of comments here where the shooter was having a problem with the trigger not resetting. Now what could cause that? Would someone with a CCP pull the slide rearward 1/16", 1/8", 3/16" 1/4" etc to determine when the slide disconnects the trigger bar. Perhaps something as simple as a dirty chamber and the lower poundage recoil spring not being able to fully close the slide....in which case a clean pistol or a tap on the rear of the slide might be a quick solution. as far as I can tell no one has addressed this issue. M1911
 

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Discussion Starter #7
That is a large gap so I doubt that is the problem. Some have reported that if they removed and reinstalled the slide then the trigger begins resetting again. So.....??? what might that be about? Made the rounds again today so I could get a look at one of these CCPs....but, still none in town. M1911
 

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That is a large gap so I doubt that is the problem. Some have reported that if they removed and reinstalled the slide then the trigger begins resetting again. So.....??? what might that be about? Made the rounds again today so I could get a look at one of these CCPs....but, still none in town. M1911
I should have described my procedure to be certain I measured what you intended. The trigger bar is partially visible on the right side because there is a very small gap between the frame and slide....about 1/32nd. I applied rearward pressure to the slide while observing the visible portion of the bar. When the bar lowered as far as it could I assumed that was the point of disconnect. If it disconnects before that the measurement would obviously be less than 1/4".
 

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Discussion Starter #9
That is much less. When the slide is retracted the trigger bar is pressed down by the oval cutout on the right side. What I'm wondering is how far rearward does the slide have to move so that the top of the trigger bar is engaged to the point it disconnects from the cylinder. In other words, you can pull the trigger but the rear of the trigger bar does not engage the cylinder. I can only imagine this is the area where the problem is occurring. When owners are reporting the trigger not resetting I'm wondering what is going on. This has been reported several times hear and at various on line reviews. M1911
 

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Just disassembled and verified that when the tab on top of the trigger bar drops down to the top of the frame the trigger bar is fully disconnected from the cylinder. If you go back to that video in my post #176 you will see the tab I'm referring to and in that rearward slide movement the tab is down and the bar is fully disconnected.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Enjoyed a lengthy phone discussion with Chandler5566 yesterday regarding the function of of the sear, connector, striker and drop safety. We took it slow and point by point. I learned a few things that you can only learn with pistol in hand. We had an enjoyable discussion and both came to new insights. This is probably the best information I will get until I ever get a pistol in hand if I ever get a pistol in hand. M1911
 

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I also enjoyed the conversation and certainly learned a few things about the CCP design, functions and operation. It's interesting how you pick up nuances to things that you thought you understood....and did but not to the detail level that you can discover by working with someone very knowledgeable and has been in the trenches.
 

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Cleaning Product ID Request(s)

Referring to the CCP takedown video below with Bret Voorhees (Walther): See link below

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QI_KfFJAqqs

Can anyone out there please tell me if you recognize the particular brand of what appears to be a foaming cleaner in the black and bronze spray bottle on the table beside Bret? The label is facing away from the camera and I'd really like to know which one he's using. The container label has a color combination very similar to Duracell batteries.

Also, does anyone know where one can purchase the larger cleaning patches he's using?

Thanks much for whatever you can share.

BTW: I directed my questions to Bret, but have yet to hear back, hence this posting.
 

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Enjoyed a lengthy phone discussion with Chandler5566 yesterday regarding the function of of the sear, connector, striker and drop safety. We took it slow and point by point. I learned a few things that you can only learn with pistol in hand. We had an enjoyable discussion and both came to new insights. This is probably the best information I will get until I ever get a pistol in hand if I ever get a pistol in hand. M1911
I also enjoyed the conversation and certainly learned a few things about the CCP design, functions and operation. It's interesting how you pick up nuances to things that you thought you understood....and did but not to the detail level that you can discover by working with someone very knowledgeable and has been in the trenches.
Consider the possibility of using Skype for these kinds of calls. I use it every evening for a group session with old ham radio buddies, but it would work well for tech sessions like you guys had. Video adds a lot to these kinds of contacts.

Apple has "FaceTime" which is very hi res but only good between Apple owners and only one to one, whereas Skype is multi platform.
 

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Consider the possibility of using Skype for these kinds of calls. I use it every evening for a group session with old ham radio buddies, but it would work well for tech sessions like you guys had. Video adds a lot to these kinds of contacts.
I remember using conference and video calls for business meetings with offshore groups and they were very effective....not to mention the cost reduction for travel around the globe.

However, it just wouldn't work in this case. 1911 would start by asking me to remove the grips from the CCP and that would end the conversation....for fear that the damn thing would fall apart and I could never get it put together again!:D
 

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However, it just wouldn't work in this case. 1911 would start by asking me to remove the grips from the CCP and that would end the conversation....for fear that the damn thing would fall apart and I could never get it put together again!:D
Maybe, but I'm watching you Chandler; your skills are increasing exponentially. You'll be holding your own with the wizards here before you know it!
 

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How does one remove the grips on a gun you can't remove grips from? :confused:
Just curious...:D
Not sure but you've seen 1911's "nasty" comment about how scared I am....and I keep saying....you're right!:D But, whatever you do....don't tell him you can't remove the grips....I think we should humor him!!:)
 
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