Walther Forums banner

1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I inherited a p22, about three weeks ago. It was built in 2007 and was never shot. The owner fell ill and was never able to shoot it. It was very wet, in the original package with all the sights, wrench and spring pilot, when i received it. It is a new 2007.
Since then I have yet to find the anything available that might work properly. In Ohio, checking daily 7 different stores including RK guns and Bass pro the only thing I have found available is a box of .22 Armscor and Aguila. The salesperson both told me, the P22 will most likely not like either.
I understand the P22 will prefer the .22 MiniMags and 22 Remington golden bullets. I was also told people camping out in front of the store are buying up all those and then reselling on line and saturated prices.
I have written Walther several times requesting their recommendation for ammunition and they will not respond.So What would you recommend. What round can I use, other that the two listed, that will work well and I dont end up spending my day working on it.

Appreciate your thoughts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
965 Posts
Take a look at Federal, 40 grain LRN

Unfortunately I don't have a P22 to test it, but I do have a PPK .22 and few other plinkers, and while I agree the MiniMags and Remington Golden work the best, the Federal have also been reliable as can be. In fact I've got a few thousand rounds from buying in 2013 or so (it was cheaper then to use .22 to practice than find 9mm...lol, kinda like it is today...) and it's been solid.

I'd definitely agree that Aguila will struggle, not worth the time!

Sorry I don't have anything better to suggest.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,401 Posts
I'd just get any .22 ammo that I could find. All .22 ammo will work....but if the ammo is too weak you might get short stroking of the slide. That means it won't be blown back far enough for the spent case to eject and the spent case might just get shoved back into the chamber. If so, consider it training to grab the slide and manually cycle it clearing the spent case while chambering the next one. If this happens every shot....that will get a bit aggravating but at least you will be shooting. None of the ammo will damage the pistol. People purchase quiet, suppressor and target ammo that are all slower rounds with not much blowback energy so it isn't uncommon for such rounds to not fully cycle any short barrel .22 regardless of make. One of the gun shops here has plenty of .22 ammo and I purchased a bunch of 5.5 cent Winchester the other day....not the best, but it works. They also had plenty of CCI red and green stuff and some other CCI but those were in the 15 to 18 cents per round. Yepper, greedy hoarders are fellow shooters in my opinion so we have met the problem and it is some of us. Make this a rule.....next time ammo becomes available....slowly stock up on it. I can find plenty here....what I can't do is be choosy about specifically what .22 ammo I want to try.

Your pistol will fire any of them. Full function might be a problem....but you won't hurt the pistol. 1917
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
726 Posts
If you’re planning to shoot at the range, in the woods, both the brands you mentioned will suffice. You may get a few anomalies but will still be a fun plinker. You will want to give the pistol a complete an proper cleaning before shooting it and then after.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well I spent a big part of the day trying to find 22 ammo. Calling numerous places, those places that had stock of some varieties would not hold nor would they allow me to purchase either online or with credit card over the phone. Strictly first come first serve. By the time I got there, nothing available.

I finally found at a gun store, 100 rounds of Federal LRN 40 Gr, 1200 fps. Not what i wanted but, I bought them. Thats all he had.

All of the other stores had no ammo at all, except the last one, that store had 2-50 round boxes of Armscor Precision, 22lr, 36 Gr, high velocity, hollow point. On line reported 1247 fps. The owner said, these will make a mess of your gun! Looking at them, in hand, they feel like they have all been lubricated, maybe like a grease on them. reluctantly, no knowing anything about them, except for the grease feel, I bought them as well.

So that's what I found, anyone have any experience with the above ammo, in the P22? Will they be a problem?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Reading on line I understand that Walther had a series of magazines revisions that it went thru, due to problem they had with the ammunition loading. I'm not sure if I have the latest and greatest or not. Or if it even matters. How can I determine if I have the correct or updated magazines.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Reading on line I understand that Walther had a series of magazines revisions that it went thru, due to problem they had with the ammunition loading. I'm not sure if I have the latest and greatest or not. Or if it even matters. How can I determine if I have the correct or updated magazines.
You should be good with the two magazines you have. They should be slotted magazines and I think 2007 magazine part numbers end in a "B" which was dropped by Walther at some point to just have the part number.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Dave, you are exactly right 265 93 **B and 265 93 36B, Not sure why one mag has asterisks instead of numbers.
I read that one guy was oiling the mag and another was using KG7 to dust the mag to allow easier feeding. Mine have never been touched or any other material added to it. I would think it would be best not to use an oil. But this is a new animal for me, I just trying to learn what might be best.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
I really don't recommend ever using oil on or in the magazine. You could use a dry lube, but really not necessary at all.

You should go ahead and shoot the gun with the ammo you have and see how it responds. P22's usually require a break-in period ( 300 to 500 rounds) even with CCI MiniMags, so don't be surprised if you have some issues first time at the range. You can always give us all an update afterwards and we can help with any issues. Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I will give you an update. I'm trying to find oil to clean it with now. I found that the gun cleaning kits I use for rifle and shotguns of course will not work for the 22, so something else i need to source. Of course within a 25 mile radius of me, 8 different stores, nothing in stock! I will leave mags as is. Although I did read an interesting article about oiling the gun. One person uses Remoil after it is cleaned, spray it off with compresses air then dusts the wear point with kg7 and only kg7. No oils.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
346 Posts
I will give you an update. I'm trying to find oil to clean it with now. I found that the gun cleaning kits I use for rifle and shotguns of course will not work for the 22, so something else i need to source. Of course within a 25 mile radius of me, 8 different stores, nothing in stock! I will leave mags as is. Although I did read an interesting article about oiling the gun. One person uses Remoil after it is cleaned, spray it off with compresses air then dusts the wear point with kg7 and only kg7. No oils.
As far as lubes go, there are the basic wear points that should be lubed. The slide rails and contact areas and where the hammer rides on the underside of the slide. The manual may spell out other areas.

For those areas I like grease - not oil. I use a light synthetic grease called Super Lube, but there are others. Just a thin coating with no extra globs or thick spots.

For cleaning and corrosion protection internally, Hornady One-Shot is my favorite. It cleans like a spray cleaner, but leaves a lube and corrosion inhibitor.

I don't use a lot of regular oil, and have the common CLP and LP (Lube Protect) when needed.

Keep track of the condition of the bore and especially the chamber for build-up that will cause malfunctions.

As others have noted - shoot what you can get for now knowing it may not cycle consistently. Most find MiniMags to be the most reliable in the P22. There's nothing wrong with Aguila, it just may need to be the higher velocity type similar in velocity to MiniMags (about 1200fps I believe).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
45,
I looked up the super-lube. I found it in a cartridge tube, 12 ounces, I can't imagine you using that. That would be very difficult to use. I found super-lube in aerosol can on line. I ca see that pretty much getting o a little bit of everything. I also found Pro shot Pro Gold lube in a syringe. So how do you dispense or apply the grease? SO yo don't use a needle bottle to dispense oil down into the case mechanisms?

I looked at the manual, that was in the gun case, and it makes no reference to what should be lubricated, when or how, so I will follow your lead. I need to look at the contact area, specifically where the hammer rides on the bottom side of the slide, I'm not familiar with it and as such there are no wear marks to see.

I have Hornaby, I have always used it on my Browning over and under.

I tried to buy the Aguila, I called and the shop have 5 -100 round bricks. I left immediately and drove 20 miles, by the time I got there, it was all gone. So All I Have presently is Federal LRN and Armscor Precision 36 grain hollow point, high velocity. The Armscor I think will be a definite problem. I have never shot it, but the fact the rounds are lubricated may be troublesome if not now, then later if it's lubrication impacts the magazine.

Thanks for your help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Was just at yet another Gun Store, looking for a gun cleaning kit. The person behind the counter, possibly the owner advised not to use a Gun cleaning kit. He reported that he does not use a rod with brush to clean the barrel, nor a map. He uses a piece of flexible No. 80 nylon round nylon cord and cut a slot into. He then puts bore cleaner on the patch and pull it through. It is guaranteed no to damage the barrel and he has been using the same nylon sting for 8 years. He runs the two different bore cleaner patches throw the barrel and lets it set for a few minutes the runs two or more clean patches using the same string to make sure the barrel is clean, the runs a patch thru with gun oil on it to protect the barrel. An interesting approach:

DO you think this will clean the bore sufficiently with the use of a barrel brush?
I have been looking at some gun cleaning kit, there is some junk there that may not make it thru the first cleaning.
It seems like a good approach of using non marring non scaring nylon.

Your thoughts please......
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
I think everybody has their own method to clean and lubricate a gun and there are lots of different products available. Personally, I use a long cotton swab with a small patch on one end for basic P22 bore cleaning and a bore brush only if needed. I use Gunzilla for all-in-one cleaning and lubrication. Hoppe's products are good as well, but with any product you don't want to over lubricate, just a very thin film.

As far as what to clean, a basic routine I use is after shooting, is to clean all accessible areas after removing the slide. Just be careful removing the slide since the guide rod spring may launch to outer space. I recommend an aftermarket captive spring which makes the assembly and re-assembly super easy.

You can disassemble the gun further by removing the front and rear pins to separate the frame from the housing, I do this periodically for cleaning and inspection, but not after every shooting session.

I hope that helps some.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well I took toads advice to clean the gun thoroughly before shooting, since it has been setting in its book since 2007. Using the new Gun kit I purchased, I prepared the kit to give the gu a good solid cleaning. My first thought was that slotted tip looks pretty bit for a 22 gauge. Sure enough it would not even fit into the barrel and of course it is the smallest in the kit. So, Im off looking for another kit. Any one have a suggestion as to what kit (or otherwise) works well on the walther p22?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
346 Posts
I use a nylon brush and regular solvent. You really need to be rough to mess up a barrel with the correct cleaning tools.

In order to clean the chamber of any fouling/build-up I'd say it's going to take more than just a patch.

Honestly, don't spend too much time worrying about it. Clean it, lube it, shoot it - it will be fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,401 Posts
Needshave, while I can understand your concern with your new pistol..... you are worrying about it all too much. Know how the pistol functions, how to safely load and shoot it and go out and shoot something. The pistol will run on any high velocity .22 ammo. Some better than on others. Some ammo is more accurate than others. Plated, waxed, plain lead....doesn't matter with the small amount you have. None of it is going to hurt the pistol. I'm the one using dry moly powder but that has more to do with keeping the zinc slide and frame, particularly at the rails from premature wearing. In the past I found that you can oil a pistol to death. All that oil will collect spent debris and make a lapping compound that won't hurt a steel pistol but the zinc doesn't like it. We're talking thousands and thousands of rounds here.....not 500 or so.

You don't need any special oil. 3 in One will work, so will motor oil....whatever....wipe most of it off. I don't use any. Sometimes I clean with carb cleaner and a rag...sometimes RemRemoil spray on. Sometimes I blow all of that out with compressed air because I want a dry gun. I do like to wipe the wear parts with dry powdered moly...but, plenty of times I clean and keep shooting with anything at hand.

You aren't going to damage the barrel with an aluminum or brass rod. Think about a barrel for a moment. You fire a cartridge, white hot fire and gasses blown down the barrel, 20,000 psi pressure, a chunk of lead spun up from zero to 50,000 rpm or faster....time after time....thousands of times. Copper, brass wash, lead.....barrels are tough, really tough. Don't stick any steel nails, screwdrivers etc down the muzzle......steel can damage a bore. I routinely touch up the chamber area with nothing more than a bent Q Tip and perhaps some RemOil while I'm plinking.

What neck of the woods are you in if you don't mind my asking. There is plenty of .22 ammo here. I'm in Alabama. 1917
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,401 Posts
I clean all of my barrels with a brass wire brush and any of a dozen solvents/oils, followed by a couple of passes with a dry patch. You can usually purchase a bag of a thousand of those for a couple of dollars. All P22 mags work fine except the early first year ones that didn't have any rim stagger slots and the short slot ones of 2007 or so. They won't hurt the pistol either they just didn't feed rounds into the chamber properly. Any of the mags with a 1" stagger slot will work fine. New or old. 1917
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,401 Posts


Photo of some P22 mags through the years. On the right a very early blued one but with rim stagger slots. Note how the expanded tab is made. Early pistol owners were complaining about unintended mag release. Walther expanded the catch tabs further out. We were never able to tell if it was a pistol problem or shooter problem...fingers hitting the mag release levers by shooters not familiar with this style of pistol. The problematic short slot mag is the one in the center. You might have problems with that one. I had five and none of them worked properly. 1917
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
346 Posts
And if you have any problems, we keep our P22 expert - 1917-1911M - on retainer to work you through it!
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Top