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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just shot my new German-made 22lr PPK/S and after 250 rounds I have a nice flesh wound in the web of my right hand. This is NOT from slide bite but from the rough right lower edge of the beavertail. I've read extensively on this and other forums and I'm sure that's what it is. I'm properly gripping the gun high on the beavertail (double checked with the range safety official) so this is not a failure to brace for recoil problem, recoil on the 22lr being pretty minimal anyway. I'm firing a lot of 22lr ammo through this gun at one time and that sharp edge of the gun is just wearing out this part of my hand.

I see that a few years ago somebody sold a beavertail plastic extension on ebay, but that seems to be no longer for sale. Is there another one out there? If there is, please provide a link.

I've also seen the video about sanding down that ridge, but this is a blued gun so I don't want to ruin the finish.

I've seen suggestions of putting electrical tape over it (which seems lame and ugly) or using shooting gloves (which I've gone ahead and ordered).

Any other suggestions?
 

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I think the manufacturer of that product was a member here... I don’t know if he is still active though.

Other than the electrical tape, a grip sleeve that covers the tang, and/or rounding just that edge, I don’t know of anything to help. I get bit by my Ppk more than my ppks but I find that the wood grips that I put on my Ppk do help a little.

It’s interesting that the .22 is biting you. I had only heard of .380s doing it due to the recoil. 250 rounds could do it thipugh. Either way, getting bit is no fun
 

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Instead of sanding you could take a polishing wheel and slowly touch up that spot that's causing the bite.
Being blued does make it tricky as to not be noticeable but unless you want to wear gloves all the time, your options are limited.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Lowering the grip makes it feel less secure. Believe me, I've got a band aid on there now. Got some decent gloves for next time. Just frustrating that Walther didn't smooth out this one edge that predictably creates a problem.

Anybody ever used something like this Pro Handgun Grips Not sure if the top front part gives enough distance to deal with the sharp beavertail issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Try some 3M rubberized grip tape.
Place some at the area that is giving you problems.
great idea. I'm not finding anything by exactly that name, and there are a whole lot of 3m products that come up in similar categories. Can you give me link of the one you have in mind? Thanks.
 

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You are talking about the ones started in 2013 aren’t you? If so I have one and while I’ve had issues with mine I’ve not had any issue with the edge of the beaver tail. I do have issues with the .380 I have from when S&W made them. Hope you get a workable solution.
 

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great idea. I'm not finding anything by exactly that name, and there are a whole lot of 3m products that come up in similar categories. Can you give me link of the one you have in mind? Thanks.
Here is a google search with various products. I bought some rubberized tape years ago from grainger.


Talon grips sells rubberized grip material that you could cut and trim.
 

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If this is one of the Umarex zinc pistols....I'd just get some emery paper or fingernail emery sticks and round off the frame to whatever works. These will never be collector firearms. I'd sand both sides neatly and not even worry about the finish. Welcome Lic2kill. 1917
 

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Just get a bike glove. That way you needn't fuddle up a really nice gun when you aren't shooting it.
Any attempts to smooth the edge will result in an edge that won't hold cold blue or other patch attempts.
Moon
 

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I have the same issue with my Fort Smith melonited PPK.

It just bugs me to have to "gear up" i.e. wear gloves to shoot a little fricken .380acp.

It's a gun you have to really want to like, to put up with that.

Its a great piece of history and classy compared to most "modern" polymer .380s, but geez...

Ok. I'll stop ranting.

I guess what I really want is for Walther to pay more attention to less than melted edges along the beavertail and backstrap of the weapon.
 

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Put in two hours a day on a post hole digger and soon your hands will more likely damage the pistol. 1917
The gun (Fort Smith) legitimately has sharp edges. I don't know if all the new productions guns do but some certainly do.
If i were to buy another, I'd check for that carefully and/or buy the stainless version so I could more easily break any offending sharp edges if necessary. Live and learn.
 

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My new PPK/s 22lr, which I purchased in May 2020, doesn't seem to have this issue. It's a little pick on ammo right now but I've only shot about 250 so far.
 
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