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I've heard of the GLOCK owners cleaning their frame's with simple green. Just put some hot water in the sink, add simple green, drop in the gun frame and leave it there overnight.

Anyone try this? Will it work? Does it hurt the polymer or metal parts inside?

Honestly, I hate cleaning the frame. All my CLP goes everywhere and it wont come out. I'd hate to have to strip the gun completely everytime too. Too much of a pita.
 

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A water soak sounds like a great way to rust all the metal parts in your frame. Are you finding you're getting a bad build up in a certain place or just trying to get it clean enough to eat off?
 

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I don't know about water and Simple Green, but I would not have any hesitation to use Brownell's D'Solve with water, followed by thorough blowing out with compressed air to dry it and get rid of the gunk that is released. But then I'd probably go back and mist it with a lubricant to protect the steel parts, and blow it out thoroughly again.

However, I'd be more inclined NOT to immerse the frame, just field strip it, spray inside with CLP or whatever (I prefer SS-1) and blow it all out with 90 psi of air until it's clean.

M
 

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My frame doesn't get so dirty that i'd need to dunk it. I also really dont have any CLP problems with it... just a damp wipe down on the outside, a few q-tips on the inside, and it's good to go.

But - no, i would never clean the frame by soaking overnight in the sink like that unless it was -complete- stripped of all the metal parts.

thorn
 

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I recently switched to Cylinder and Slide's Dunk-It for polymer guns followed by an air compressor to blow out the loosened gunk. It has reduced my cleaning time significantly - it also keeps ME cleaner.

Buying an air compressor was one of the best gun-related decisions I ever made. I am able to adjust the output (from a breeze to a typhoon) and no more buying can after can of compressed air. I paid about 50 bucks for a new Campbell Hausfeld Model FP2048 on Ebay, great unit with lots of available attachments.

https://shop.cylinder-slide.com/ccp51/cgi-bin/cp-app.pl?&pg=cat&ref=4

http://www.centralnevadatool.com/fp.html

Sorry, I didn't mean to take this thread off topic.
 

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I use Simple Green to clean my guns. I DO NOT let them soak.

Simple Green is a pretty potent crud cutter. It won't take longer than the amount of time you spend cleaning the barrel to get everything clean.

Some cautions:
Simple Green can also react with some polymers and aluminum so user beware.

It will leave everything bone dry. You will have zero lube left anywhere Simple Green was. ON a Glock that's not so bad because everything you need to lube is right there on top. On a P99 you may have to detail strip and re-lube everything to avoid problems.
 

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I use Simple Green to clean my guns. I DO NOT let them soak.

Simple Green is a pretty potent crud cutter. It won't take longer than the amount of time you spend cleaning the barrel to get everything clean.

Some cautions:
Simple Green can also react with some polymers and aluminum so user beware.

It will leave everything bone dry. You will have zero lube left anywhere Simple Green was. ON a Glock that's not so bad because everything you need to lube is right there on top. On a P99 you may have to detail strip and re-lube everything to avoid problems.
Hmm bone dry huh? Seems then that Dunk-It for polymer guns may indeed be a better choice for a P99 since it leaves a light coating of oil on everything. However, you still need to apply grease or oil to the usual spots. I think I'll pass on Simple Green for a P99. I barely have enough time to shoot let alone detail strip.
 

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Here is what a member on another forum had to say about Simple Green when the topic of Mpro7 came up. I can't confirm any of this though:

Mpro and hoppes elite are both a chemical reproduction of the active compounds in Simple Green... truth. My buddy owns a chemical supply/mfg company- he can reverse engineer a formula with some fancy machines he has... He showed me that if you take all the H2o out of simple green, and replace it with glycol... a hydrophobic non-VOC solvent, you get Mpro7. The idea behind the effectiveness of the stuff (SG or Mpro, is that they are surfactants (soap) not solvents. A solvent will work on a limited range of materials... a surfactant can do its thing on any surface, and remove any material deposits- not by disolving them, but by breaking the bonds that hold the dissimilar materials together (fouling, etc...)
 

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I've used Simple Green on numerous handguns bot polymer framed and metal without any ill effects.

I mix it with hot water and use a tooth brush to clean the underside of the slide, the frame rails and wherever I can reach.

I have used it inside the barrel of my handguns and it seems to work well.

I do lubricate after cleaning. Never had any problems at all.
 

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clp. Its cheaper than SimpleGreen, and it WON'T rust your steel parts!:)
First off its not cheaper by weight alone, not to mention you can cut simple green a few times and it is still just as effective.

The guys on the AGI gunsmith videos generally use simple green, in a 50/50 water solution then flick/towel dry the componets. After that they lightly oil the metal parts(which you should always do). Hence it wont rust your weapon.

Its been used on polymer guns for about 20 years without any ill effect, I think the nay sayers are effectly doing the old timer wives tale crap.
 

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All metal handgun parts can rust if not cared for.
Any cleaning solution or solvent will remove oil.
Powderblast
Gunscrubber
Barke Parts Cleaner

These all remove oils and other lubricants.

I can't image that Simple Green when cut with water is more harmful than any of the above.

I'm pretty sure that Tennifer treated metal will have less issues than untreated metal.
 

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Ive used SG for years and pretty much echo what everybody else has said. I soak parts for a while in a hot water/SG solution then rinse with hot water, dry off. Then lube. It works great. Recently, Ive tried the dunk-it on a P22 and Im pleased with the results. As someone said, it has a light lubricant already in it.
 
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