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Is it really worse to buy this P1 for $500? I am thinking, love Walther especially one made before plastic one era <img src="http://www.waltherforums.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" />
It’s not worse. The $30 extra were a rip-off; from the pictures those were all standard post-war West German surplus, meaning the only difference between the P38 and P1 is the slide stamping.

With buying from a batch like this, as opposed to buying a specific gun, like on Gunbroker, the issue always is that there is inevitably a mix of vintages and you may get a slim or a fat slide, or a hex bolt or not, and the gun may be a $500 gun or not.
 

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Hey Guys. Like most of yall, I'm a hard working middle class dude who pulls my fair share for myself/ family and the good ol USA. At least I think I so anyway. It was very unusual when I found just a little extra gun cash in my pocket that wanted out. I knew enough that these were likely desirable to some degree and might need to move on it quicker than usual. So, I threw in on the p38-p1 doing my detailed research after the fact. How does that usually turn out, right? I learned that the frame cracks, and the slide cracks. I could also get eaten by a bear today too, but I would likely not go into bear territory if it was happening often, right? I started wondering if this Carl Walther pistol maker is so good then why is is breaking.... In hindsight, Im sorta regretting this purchase since my research finds the p38- p1s will have a thin slide and no hex bolt from what I can gather. A crack waiting to happen?? I gotta pretty wife to look at so I don't need a looker in some display case. Oh well..I must now put that outta my mind and just shoot it till it breaks. For those who will buy it from me for half price, wait till I break it first. Have fun with yours.
 

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Hey Guys. Like most of yall, I'm a hard working middle class dude who pulls my fair share for myself/ family and the good ol USA. At least I think I so anyway. It was very unusual when I found just a little extra gun cash in my pocket that wanted out. I knew enough that these were likely desirable to some degree and might need to move on it quicker than usual. So, I threw in on the p38-p1 doing my detailed research after the fact. How does that usually turn out, right? I learned that the frame cracks, and the slide cracks. I could also get eaten by a bear today too, but I would likely not go into bear territory if it was happening often, right? I started wondering if this Carl Walther pistol maker is so good then why is is breaking.... In hindsight, Im sorta regretting this purchase since my research finds the p38- p1s will have a thin slide and no hex bolt from what I can gather. A crack waiting to happen?? I gotta pretty wife to look at so I don't need a looker in some display case. Oh well..I must now put that outta my mind and just shoot it till it breaks. For those who will buy it from me for half price, wait till I break it first. Have fun with yours.

There is a bunch of things going on:
First, on another forum a person posted that talking to AIM last Saturday ( after missing the P-38s on sale by a hair ) was told that AIM was sending out the thick slides and hex bolt P-1s weapons first for those ordering a P-1. I should have mine tomorrow so fingers are crossed and will report what I get

Second the design of the P-38 survived a special he11 called the Eastern Front that had a cold that would freeze the oil in the recoil systems in cannon or the special name the Russians called the two periods of mud ( Resputitsa )that plagued that country. I think Walther can design good weapons.

Third I researched before and more after buying the weapon about the possibility of cracking frames and slides and I found using the 115 gr ammo is a good idea and no 147gr +++ hand loads with STP for extra zip isn't a good idea. Regardless of what type of P-1 I get it when I cleaned it will get inspected in the areas of slide and where the locking lugs hook up. It's hard after being in the Army not to clean and inspect after shooting anything.

Fourth I'm looking for the reason why the Germans went with a alloy frame and a steel slide then they need pistols for the new German Army. Sorta like a Chevy Vega, Alloy block and steel oil rings. The joke with the car was check the gas, fill the oil.
and yes I plan to have fun with mine and she will have a good and loving home.
Jump62
aka Paul
 

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They're surplus military sidearms not eggs. Use the ammo they're designed to use and enjoy.

And what ammo would it be, I read some place that while WW2 it was subsonic only. Is it right? I don’t think regular modern 115/124gr 9mm is subsonic. I am sure I am not going to use +p with it but pressure could be too high with current modern 115/124gr for it.
 

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Second the design of the P-38 survived a special he11 called the Eastern Front that had a cold that would freeze the oil in the recoil systems in cannon or the special name the Russians called the two periods of mud ( Resputitsa )that plagued that country. I think Walther can design good weapons.
It didn’t survive, Germans got beaten on Easter Front and that is why Hitler basically sent bullet to his head one day later 1945, anyway yes that is why Tokarev, Makarov, PPS and AK etc could survive in extrimely harsh conditions. That is requirement number 1 to any firearm there.
 

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Is there a re-work date on the other side?

I’m trying to make sense of the bottom number, specifically the 9/76 at the end that looks like a date. The 242— serial range places the gun much earlier.
 

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That's probably the last date on which it passed through the BW's arsenal system to be checked or repaired. But apparently it was not completely rebuilt, as many were. The parts all look to be contemporaneous, except maybe the barrel which might be a replacement.

More than 3/4 of the P38s/P1s made by Walther for the BW and the German police were of this same pattern --no "fat" slide, no hex lug, so that's not a grave shortcoming. Shoot the gun with normal ammunition (Federal AE 115 gr. FMJ or American-made equivalent) and enjoy it. It will last likely longer than you if you take care to keep the locking block surfaces in the aluminum frame scrupulously clean and well-lubricated.

M
 
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