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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am experiencing a few problems with my new P99c 9mm that I am hoping are ammo related - the gun now has about 300 rounds through it. I've been shooting 124 gr. factory Hyda-Shoks ('cuz I get them free) and have experienced a few failures to fire (hard primer?) and every once in a while, the slide does not return to full battery - it stops just short.

The Hydra-Shok is a relatively mild cartridge and perhaps it just doesn't have sufficient "oomph" to drive the slide all the way home. But as I said, it happens very infrequently. As for the failures to fire, I have seen hard primers before especially with S&B. Anyone want to chime in? Thanks.
 

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I think Walther recommends using a moderately hot round to "break-in" the recoil spring system .......or probably a better phrase to use is - for the spring system to take the proper "Set".

I have seen "striker" guns that would release the striker with the Slide not quite fully closed. Not sure if this is safe or if it only happens to pistols with disconnects slightly out of spec????? But the main result will be that the bullet receives what appears to be a "light hit".

This happened twice to a student of mine that was using a Glock, in which the Slide was hanging up due to a broken Laser aming device. I looked at the rounds that were ultimately ejected manually, and found they had been struck - but very lightly.

Like the other poster suggested .......I would try some different ammo and see if the Slide closure problem goes away.......... if it does - hopefully the light bullet hits will also dissappear.

JF.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I think Walther recommends using a moderately hot round to "break-in" the recoil spring system .......or probably a better phrase to use is - for the spring system to take the proper "Set".

I have seen "striker" guns that would release the striker with the Slide not quite fully closed. Not sure if this is safe or if it only happens to pistols with disconnects slightly out of spec????? But the main result will be that the bullet receives what appears to be a "light hit".

This happened twice to a student of mine that was using a Glock, in which the Slide was hanging up due to a broken Laser aming device. I looked at the rounds that were ultimately ejected manually, and found they had been struck - but very lightly.

Like the other poster suggested .......I would try some different ammo and see if the Slide closure problem goes away.......... if it does - hopefully the light bullet hits will also dissappear.

JF.
Thanks. That is very helpful information. This is the first I ever heard of the need to use a certain kind of ammo to break a gun in and that's why gun forums can be so helpful.

My P99c in .40 has been flawless from the get-go so the occasional light strike and failure of the slide to return to full battery has come as a surprise. Then again, I only have 300 rounds through the gun and it'd happened maybe once or twice every 100 rounds, and only with the Hyda-Shoks. I don't believe it's happened with WWB a more robust recoiling round. I sure hope the action is not out of synch. Like you and others have recommended, I am going to switch ammo. Tomorrow I plan to put 150 rounds of Rem UMC FMJ through it and see what happens. For now I'll depend on my P99c in 40 for carry.
 

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I think your two problems are related. Try some different ammo first. Not necessarily because you need special "break in" ammo. You could have a bad batch of ammo that is out of spec and is not chambering completely.

Now I will concede that most Euro guns benefit from having some "hot" ammo. After all NATO spec ball is closer to our +P stuff. Try something hotter like some of the Winchester NATO ball at ammoman.com, some Fiocchi, or some +P 124gr JHP and see if it does better.

Next thing I would check is recoil spring and guide to see if something is hanging or dragging. Then lube and try again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I think your two problems are related. Try some different ammo first. Not necessarily because you need special "break in" ammo. You could have a bad batch of ammo that is out of spec and is not chambering completely.

Now I will concede that most Euro guns benefit from having some "hot" ammo. After all NATO spec ball is closer to our +P stuff. Try something hotter like some of the Winchester NATO ball at ammoman.com, some Fiocchi, or some +P 124gr JHP and see if it does better.

Next thing I would check is recoil spring and guide to see if something is hanging or dragging. Then lube and try again.
All good advice, thanks. Tomorrow I am going to try in addition to the Rem UMG FMJ (may not be hot enough) a box (50) of Black Hills 115 gr. JHP +P and 25 rounds of Golden Saber 124 gr. JHP 124 gr. +P. I have been using oil on the slide rails but this time I applied grease.

I'll post an update soon. Again thanks guys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Update....I just came back from the range after firing 250 rounds of Remington UMC 115 gr. FMJ (150), Black Hills 115 gr. JHP +P (50) and Remington Golden Saber 124 gr. JHP +P (50). No more 115 grain Hydra-Shok JHP's. 'Zero problems with the slide not going back into full battery. The only problem I experienced once or twice was a failure to fire on the first round that I attribute to the fact that I did (with slide locked back) a weak sling shot vs. pushing down on the slide stop to chamber the first round - I re-read the instruction book (better late than never) and I see that the recommended procedure is to push down on the slide stop so I will have to get into the habit of doing that instead of sling shotting the slide.

If now want to try a couple hundred rounds of Blazer Brass compliments of WalMart - it's even cheaper than WWB and I've used it before in other guns with no problems. If I can get through another 200 rounds without a glitch, I feel the gun is ready for carry.
 

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Update....I just came back from the range after firing 250 rounds of Remington UMC 115 gr. FMJ (150), Black Hills 115 gr. JHP +P (50) and Remington Golden Saber 124 gr. JHP +P (50). No more 115 grain Hydra-Shok JHP's. 'Zero problems with the slide not going back into full battery. The only problem I experienced once or twice was a failure to fire on the first round that I attribute to the fact that I did (with slide locked back) a weak sling shot vs. pushing down on the slide stop to chamber the first round - I re-read the instruction book (better late than never) and I see that the recommended procedure is to push down on the slide stop so I will have to get into the habit of doing that instead of sling shotting the slide.

If now want to try a couple hundred rounds of Blazer Brass compliments of WalMart - it's even cheaper than WWB and I've used it before in other guns with no problems. If I can get through another 200 rounds without a glitch, I feel the gun is ready for carry.
If I were you, I would continue sling shotting the slidel. Hitting the slide stop lever with your thumb is a fine motor skill that will degrade when under stress. Seriously, give that some thought.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
If I were you, I would continue sling shotting the slidel. Hitting the slide stop lever with your thumb is a fine motor skill that will degrade when under stress. Seriously, give that some thought.
OK but why the light strike on the first round when sling shotting? Didn't let it fly hard enough?
 

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If I were you, I would continue sling shotting the slidel. Hitting the slide stop lever with your thumb is a fine motor skill that will degrade when under stress. Seriously, give that some thought.
What is "sling shotting"
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
What is "sling shotting"
With the slide locked back, insert loaded mag, grip rear portion of the slide, pull back, and let the slide fly forward = slingshotting. Walther says instead to push down on the slide lock..
 

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OK but why the light strike on the first round when sling shotting? Didn't let it fly hard enough?
Sometimes the tendency is to not totally release the slide. You end up kind of guiding your slide back into battery. You want to pull back sharply and let go sharply. "Didn't let it fly hard enough?" is probably correct, although it should not have made a difference concerning a light strike.
 

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I agree 100% with Ogie -- IF you are still learning ........get in the habit of using the sling-shot method of reloading. If you have always used the slide release.........than go for it.

"riding the Slide" home is a problem ........but an easy one to over come ! Actually..........using the sling shot method gives the Slide MORE inertia to lock up when done properly. Grab the Slide with the weak hand - usually the thumb and two fingers will do............ pull back hard until the Slide slips from your grasp.......it will shoot forward with a lot of force.

If you are still having light strikes ........... then the gun needs to be examined by the S&W crew.

JF.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Latest update - just came back from the range and fired an additional 225 rounds of mixed factory UMC Remington, Hyda-Shok and Blazer Brass. NOT ONE SINGLE FAILURE :).

No light strikes, no failure of the slide to go into battery. I guess in my case, my P99c 9mm did have to be broken in but now I have full confidence in it for carry. My suggestion would be that the first 50-100 rounds be +P. I think that will reduce the break in period and allow the recoil spring to take a "set" quicker. I can't say for sure but that's what I would do if I had a brand new gun. I also switched to Brian Enos' "Slide Glide" Lite grease and had far less crud buildup. I think the stuff is great. Ain't cheap but great.

I am happy now! :)
 

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Latest update - just came back from the range and fired an additional 225 rounds of mixed factory UMC Remington, Hyda-Shok and Blazer Brass. NOT ONE SINGLE FAILURE :).

No light strikes, no failure of the slide to go into battery. I guess in my case, my P99c 9mm did have to be broken in but now I have full confidence in it for carry. My suggestion would be that the first 50-100 rounds be +P. I think that will reduce the break in period and allow the recoil spring to take a "set" quicker. I can't say for sure but that's what I would do if I had a brand new gun. I also switched to Brian Enos' "Slide Glide" Lite grease and had far less crud buildup. I think the stuff is great. Ain't cheap but great.

I am happy now! :)
Cool!

I prefer Weapon Shield on my guns. I switched from Breakfree and think the Weapon Shield is the best stuff I have ever used. I have tried grease and I think it retards the movement of the slide to some degree.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Cool!

I prefer Weapon Shield on my guns. I switched from Breakfree and think the Weapon Shield is the best stuff I have ever used. I have tried grease and I think it retards the movement of the slide to some degree.
Ogie, Enos makes 3 grades of grease. For carry, he recommends the LITE version and that's what I used.
 
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