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Discussion Starter #1
20 years ago, I had an Interarms (marked) model, but it got traded away in the buying and selling of new toys. I recently, about 4 weeks ago, picked up a new one, a 2017 production. To date, I have put 350 rounds through it, mostly 9x19 ball ammo, SB, Magtech, and Winchester.

It has run flawlessly. I like the longer beavertail on the pistol because it helps to protect my hand. A Glock 19 hurts more. But the P99 is agreeable after a range session of 200 rounds. The shape of the slide too seems to help tame more recoil.

I prefer the paddle release. It makes more sense to have the magazine-release function up and out of the way of the grip.

I treat it as a DA/SA, always remembering to decock it to double action mode as I do on HK pistols. The striker indicator can be used as a hammer is on a regular DA/SA pistol as a tactile warning when reholstering.

The magazine springs seem strong and keep the follower in place. I dislike wiggly followers as seen on the PX4 and Jericho 941. It always needs to snap sharply up and down and not feel mushy or loose.

When going to an indoor range, I usually shoot an IPSC or IDPA target at 7 yards. With the P99, it is easy to keep the hits in the A zone. The pistol too is easy to use with the high, thumbs-forward grip.
 

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The striker indicator can be used as a hammer is on a regular DA/SA pistol as a tactile warning when reholstering.
If safely reholstering the pistol is a concern, the decocker button can be pressed and held into the slide while holstering.

The decocker button itself is what stops the striker's forward movement when decocking the pistol. It acts as a "striker block" if pressed and held into the slide. The trigger can still be pulled, and the striker will cock and release, but the striker will not impact the primer on the cartridge if the decocker is pressed and held into the slide.

You can do the pen test with and without pressing the decocker to test this yourself. It is just one more perk of the P99 design.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I may have mentioned it elsewhere, nonetheless, the pistol came with a test target. It is zeroed at 15 meters. There are 3 shots in the center of the target.

I use the the medium back piece that is on the pistol. While my hands are large, I like the full grip it allows.

A Ronin OWB holster from Gunfighters Inc is now made and on its way.

While I live in a full capacity magazine state, I did buy two 10 round magazines for it for the odd chance I may find myself in a restricted state. Also, I will use these magazines for practicing speed reloads, that is, dropping them on the deck.

The pistol shows an attention to detail in how it was made, no tool marks on the inside.

Looking through my old posts, I see I signed up here when I had briefly a P99 in the QA configuration. That one came and went quickly because it was not my cup of tea. I use DA/SA pistols exclusively; the P99 AS is a tidy variation on this mode with its unique striker system.
 

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Cool.

I have a Hogue Jr grip I put on my P(9, and now the grip is absolutely perfect (I hate the fullsize Hogue grip, but the Jr model has only 1 finger groove and smaller palm swells)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So, while other companies are using its consumers as beta testers for new pistols that fail, you can buy a new P99, a proven and tested design, and go about your life while you train and practice and learn to have confidence in your choice for personal protection. Did you bring protection with you?

Really though, I am so through with "new" guns and their hyped ammo made for short barrels. Give me the tried and true instead. A Walther P99 AS is a good balance between a full size pistol and one made for concealed carry. It is a range gun as well as one for your CCW needs.

Stay safe out there.
 

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20 years ago, I had an Interarms (marked) model, but it got traded away in the buying and selling of new toys. I recently, about 4 weeks ago, picked up a new one, a 2017 production. To date, I have put 350 rounds through it, mostly 9x19 ball ammo, SB, Magtech, and Winchester.

It has run flawlessly. I like the longer beavertail on the pistol because it helps to protect my hand. A Glock 19 hurts more. But the P99 is agreeable after a range session of 200 rounds. The shape of the slide too seems to help tame more recoil.

I prefer the paddle release. It makes more sense to have the magazine-release function up and out of the way of the grip.

I treat it as a DA/SA, always remembering to decock it to double action mode as I do on HK pistols. The striker indicator can be used as a hammer is on a regular DA/SA pistol as a tactile warning when reholstering.

The magazine springs seem strong and keep the follower in place. I dislike wiggly followers as seen on the PX4 and Jericho 941. It always needs to snap sharply up and down and not feel mushy or loose.

When going to an indoor range, I usually shoot an IPSC or IDPA target at 7 yards. With the P99, it is easy to keep the hits in the A zone. The pistol too is easy to use with the high, thumbs-forward grip.
How do the new production (BH) date code P99 AS triggers compare to previous generations? I still have all Gen 1 P99s, never went for Gen 2+, but thinking about a new one of the latest iteration.

Thanks!
James
 

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I felt the DA trigger pull was a bit too heavy and too long for my liking. I did like everything else about the gun though.

I ended up switching to a HK P30, but it took me a while to get there.

I did very much like the features of the P99. Mine was a sub compact and I definitely think I made a mistake and would have preferred the compact size.
 

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extremist, My late gen P99 AS and c AS have better triggers than my Interarms imported first gen P99, both the DA and SA are smoother and, to me, lighter.
 

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extremist, My late gen P99 AS and c AS have better triggers than my Interarms imported first gen P99, both the DA and SA are smoother and, to me, lighter.
Good to know thanks!
 

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How do the new production (BH) date code P99 AS triggers compare to previous generations? I still have all Gen 1 P99s, never went for Gen 2+, but thinking about a new one of the latest iteration.

Thanks!
James
I have a (relatively) ancient SW99 and there's little comparison to the later model P99s where trigger pull is concerned. The older gun operates the same, but the trigger feels "notchy" in both modes.

It's nothing you'd notice in a SD situation or rapid fire, riding the reset. But in slow, deliberate target mode there's definitely a difference.
 

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My P99c has the grittiest double action trigger of any gun I’ve ever owned. The pull weight and length of pull are fine but grittiness bothers me some. I polished the trigger bar some as well as cleaned up and polished the striker channel some and it seemed to help a bit. Not a problem in a self defense situation, just a bit bothersome during range time. Still my number one carry however!
 

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My P99c has the grittiest double action trigger of any gun I’ve ever owned. The pull weight and length of pull are fine but grittiness bothers me some. I polished the trigger bar some as well as cleaned up and polished the striker channel some and it seemed to help a bit. Not a problem in a self defense situation, just a bit bothersome during range time. Still my number one carry however!
So how is the trigger pull during the 'long' AS pull? Same question for he shorter AS pull?
 

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OK.....well, at this point, and since you're already done a little cleanup on the striker and the striker channel, if it were me, I'd replace the factory striker spring with a ....I hate to say this....er', uh'.....a Glock striker spring.....maybe a 6 pounder. I've used this spring in some P99's as well as some SW99's. The 6 pound Glock spring is a tiny bit smaller OD as well as a little bit lighter than the factory Walther spring. This spring lowered the DA pull just a little as well as made it feel a little smoother. AND, I've NEVER had a failure to ignite the primer using this spring.

Its worth a shot....and they're cheap.

Gunsprings.com

 

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Ok imaoldfart I got my 6 lb Glock spring but I for the life of me cannot figure out how to remove the old spring and put in the new one. Have any ideas? I’m not afraid to do a bit of work on a gun and I rebuild knives and do filework on them, plus a lot of years as a machinist, but for the life of me I can’t figure out how to pull that striker apart! Any idea anyone?
 

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Do you have any idea how valve springs are held on the valve stem? OK, they're held on with a pair of 'keepers' and a cap. To remove a valve spring from the head, you need to compress the valve spring, THEN you can remove the keepers and now the spring can be lifted/removed.

The striker spring is held onto the striker in much the same manner. Once you've removed the striker from the pistol, stand the striker on is butt, use thumb and forefinger to push the spring down.....holding it down while you use your other hand/finger/fingernail to lift the keepers UP and out, as they're sandwiched between the outside of the striker and the inside of the spring.

Once you understand the installation/design and how they work, its a piece of cake.

Installation is just the reverse. Compress the spring....hold it down and stuff the keepers into the end of the spring, between the striker and the spring.

Watch a video on youtube....here's the first one I came to....its a Glock, but the basic concept is the same.
 

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Thanks! I got it! Didn’t realize the plastic collar was split. Came apart and went together in 1 minute flat! Now to put it all together and see how it feels. More to come later!
 

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Ok all back together and dry fired and it’s a lot smoother and the pull is lighter. Hopefully soon I’ll be able to get to the range and test it out and make sure their are no light strikes! Thanks Imaoldfart, much appreciated!
 
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