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Discussion Starter #1
Perhaps I don't know enough about the P22 but I cannot get my barrel nut tight on a 5" version of the pistol. The wrench runs into the stabilizer which runs into the end of the polymer grip It looks like if I want to suppress it I will have to file additional wrench lands on the Silencer Co thread adapter. :mad:

I'm doing this because the 3.4" QD is in the process of getting a new red dot installed. Tired of missing squirrels. 4 moa, fine for target shooting. I'd get a 6
moa for faster target acquisition and an 8 moa for gunslinging. 1917
 

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Discussion Starter #4


In the meantime...this is the pistol with the 5" barrel. No stabilizer as above but this is what the new red dot will look like when installed on the 3.4" black QD model. I think these compact red dots are just the right size for this pistol. 23 grams total weight...base, screws and optic/battery. 1/8" thick aluminum flat bar from Lowes. Shield RMSc. The base will get painted. 1917
 

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Discussion Starter #5


The five inch barrel is properly installed, sleeve indexed, nut tight. The rear of the wrench cutout needs to be moved forward appx 1/4". Retracting the slide does not help. There is not enough room and with a captive guide rod you can't remove it either...nor can you remove/install the slide with the thread adapter nut installed. I noticed someone had a hole drilled through the center of the threaded front portion of their nut in another thread...now I know why. 1917
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The only way I see to do this is use the suppressor to screw the barrel nut on...not an ideal solution. 1917
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Tight. You do not want any play or the round could strike the inside of the suppressor and they are a pain to purchase, buy a $200 stamp for and wait 9 months for it to arrive. The problem with screwing the thread adapter on using the suppressor is that the nut will come off when the suppressor is unscrewed. I clean mine regularly and add water to it sometimes for first round pop suppression. And, I'm not sure the flange on the thread adapter won't hit the nose of the stabilizer before it is fully tightened anyway. 1917
 

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By chance does your adapter have a hax inside the end where you could install it with an Allen wrench? I've seen pictures of some like this.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Good idea but no, it is round. The flange you see in earlier photos is part of the nut and it would be very easy to file two sides flat for a 1/2" or 9/16" open end wrench. If I had a machine shop I'm sure I could mill it for a six point socket. Waiting to hear from Silencer Co. to see what they say. Yes a longer rear section would work. I noticed one poster at Rimfire had a hole drilled through the front threaded portion of his....now I know why. I'd rather shape something external than possibly disrupt the smooth flow of hot gas out of this target shootin' iron.....er...zinc.

That still won't solve the problem if the stabilizer is too long and the flange bottoms out against it before the nut is tightened onto the barrel. 1917
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Today and before I make a red dot base for the 5" barreled pistol I needed to work on the suppressor adapter stuck on the end of the barrel. I threaded the part into the end of suppressor and using the suppressor screwed the adapter on to tension the barrel. Worked great until I tried to remove it. This time the suppressor unscrewed leaving no means to remove the adapter. The lands are covered by the stabilizer. What to do? Thread locker on the suppressor? File lands on the center ring which is adjacent to the suppressor or drill a hole through the front portion of the part so that something can be inserted to remove the part. I decided to drill. This has to be done while the part is on the pistol in this case. I sent an e-mail with photos to Silencer Co. of what I am having to do to resolve this situation.



Here the thread adapter has been tightened onto the threaded barrel using the suppressor. The stabilizer covers the wrench lands long before the part is tight. In the above case the stabilizer unscrewed leaving the part in place with no method for removal. The stabilizer cannot be moved forward or rearward.



In order to remove the part I decided to drill a hole through the center of the forward threaded end. This had to be done with the part on the pistol.



An Allen wrench can now be used to remove or install the part.



Perhaps this is a good solution, perhaps not. Will the part be weakened and damaged by the hole? The suppressor must remain precisely aligned. But, for the present this is my solution. Obviously the factory could manufacture a better part and with no unfinished holes. At least the screw on suppressor hides the hole. But, do the gasses still flow smoothly? 1917
 

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Perhaps this is a good solution, perhaps not. Will the part be weakened and damaged by the hole? The suppressor must remain precisely aligned. But, for the present this is my solution. Obviously the factory could manufacture a better part and with no unfinished holes. At least the screw on suppressor hides the hole. But, do the gasses still flow smoothly? 1917

I don't think there is anything to be concerned about. Highly doubt the hole is going to effect anything. Best solution to your issue IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Have gone back and forth with Silencer Co regarding the issue. They do sell new adapter for $42 plus shipping, etc. And, below is what the new one looks like. They have removed the center ring which will now allow the part to be tightened and then the stabilizer can be slid over it and onto the barrel sleeve. They did not answer regarding if the rear portion when tightened allowed the suppressor to seat without hitting the nose of the stabilizer.

I think I could have removed the ring on the old one as well and then been able to slide the stabilizer on or off thus exposing the wrench lands. 1917

 

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Hole won’t hurt anything. Especially since when you thread the can on, it covers and supports the adapter against any fatigue. Threads are strong strong things. You drilled that thing really clean! Sharp new drill bit??

That is a nice new adapter. I have made my own adapters and things like that. I had to make a new thread protector for a hunting rifle after the factory one worked its way off after a string of shots at an elusive brown animal with antlers got away.

Having the tools and the abilities to do things makes life so much easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
If I had it to do over again I would move the hole forward just a bit. The one I drilled is almost not covered by the female threads. If even a small portion of those holes aren't covered....you might as well not have a suppressor on the pistol. That last picture is the new adapter by SilencerCo. I don't have one. 1917
 
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