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i know this sounds stupid but i really want a ppk. also i must have total reliability because once a pistol jams more than once i never shoot it again. having said that here is my question.

Is a .32 more reliable than a .38. I am asking because everyone i ask seems to say that the original ppk was designed to fire the .32, also that the .32 is slightly more reliable.

What about the new ppk made by S&W, was that originally chambered for the .32 or .38? i hope to buy one in the next few days so all the info i get will be helpful, thanks.

ps i have no issues with stopping power, i just want a tottaly concealable yet reliable pistol that will go with me everwhere.
 

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You are right
the initial PP and PPK came in .32 ACP
however shortly after, they came in .22lr, .25ACP, and .380ACP though the .25 didn't last long at all... matter of fact I have yet never seen one at all

I can't tell you for sure when the introduction of the other 3 callibers were... but it was no later than 1939......

I have neither..... all I have is a PP .22lr at this point.... but I too was debating if it should be a .380 or .32..... I can tell you this... both are going to be good guns....
Not to long ago I read an article about the Interarms PPK in .32ACP... from back when it first was brought on the market... and all I read were good things.... the .380 might be a bit snappier than the .32....... I have yet not once seen a .32 made by Interarms for sale on any forum or gunauctions
 

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i must have total reliability because once a pistol jams more than once i never shoot it again. having said that here is my question.

Then you don't want any auto I suggest a nice snub 38 spl. A auto is a lot of parts and they sometimes need broken in a little. You can limpwrist and cause a jam, Their 2 many things that can happen to mean your above statement. Even the Walk on Water Glock's have jams.
That why they have malfunction drills. So you will be prepared and can quickly get your weapon back in action.
I'm serious You don't need a auto. My PPK/s has never jamed since I owned it. Before me I have no idea. Will it next time I shoot its possible. I mean you could test 500 rounds, no jam and start carring and it james on 501 when you need it. Murphy's law. I had a 45 do that in a real shooting I got off 1 shot and failed to go in to battery. This pistol had always worked. Murphy struck.
So buy you PPK or PPK/S and when it has a jam let me know I will pay shipping and $100 for gun. After all your words i never shoot it again.
 

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.32 and .380 here. German and Interarms. About 5 or 6 pieces over the years. No experience with the S&W. Never had a jam with the ones I've handled. But some had jams when other persons have fired them. So my best guess is...no limp-wristing.
 

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Not with the ones I've handled. But, face it, some guns work with some people, some don't. For example, I used to have a Toyota that spent more days with the mechanic than with me. Got rid of it, old lady buys it. Afterwards, dealer tells me the old lady had mentioned it was the best car she had ever bought.


Probably as in everything, some things work for some, some don't.
 

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I have had very poor luck with the ppk/s in .380. I have owned multilple german and interarms models and have had terrible jamming problems with them. I have two german ppks in .32 and 1 in .22 and have had no jams with them. I did get lucky and found a used german reconditioned cheap ppk/s in .380 that has been very reliable. I also have a s&w .380 that has also been reliable (does not look as good, but has a better trigger.) Perhaps it is just me, perhaps it is my technique, but i own multiple other models and no other guns jam. In my opinion, the .32 would have a much better chance of not jamming.
 

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I do not think there is a reliability issue between the 7.65mm and 9mm kurz pistols. I have three Ulm/Donau PPK's; two in 9mm kurz and one in the 7.65mm chambering. No problems with any of them.
 
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