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Old 08-13-2013, 01:34 AM   #1
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dupontin .22
Inletting a new stock

I purchased my second walther (1st was a P22Q) the new one's a rifle I belive from the markings made in 1969 .22 sports rifle serial number in the 3000's
I've just started work on a new stock for it.
I purchased a blank laminated stock from www.rifle-stocks.com (richards ?)
They won't ship inletted stocks to Australia so I'm restricted to doing the inletting on a thumbhole benchrest stock myself.
I ordered some different router bit sets including a 1 1/4" round nose bit to cut the action channel and a 1" for the barrel itself.

On the weekend i found a piece of 4x2' wood and used that as a test workpiece. I cut the barrel channel using a triton router table (workcentre), it worked well on the test piece.
Then I marked out in the channel where the action was to go, so far so good. and drilled these holes.
So far this is only on the piece of 4.x2'

I'll try and take some photo's if anyones interested.

M
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Last edited by dupontin; 08-13-2013 at 02:22 AM.
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Old 08-13-2013, 10:58 AM   #2
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searcher451 .22
Would love to see what you are up to; by all means post up some photos and keep us in the loop. Thanks.
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Old 08-13-2013, 02:53 PM   #3
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YES! Would be very interested in seeing your tool set-up.

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Old 08-15-2013, 07:07 PM   #4
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colduphere .22
I too would be very interested in seeing your set up.

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Old 08-23-2013, 08:01 AM   #5
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dupontin .22
Photos of stage 1 showing the original rifle (I painted the stock cream because the original colour was bright orange (the're a small wear patch on the stock showing the god awful orange).

Firstly I measured using digital calipers
The other photo's show the sample 4"x2" which I inletted a channel for the barrel (using a 1 1/4" round nose bit) which perfectly matched the round walther action.
Then I used a drill bit in my drill press to cut the rest of the action making the outer circumference of the drill bit to touch the furtherest point.
I then simply used a chisel to square up the holes.
so far I've done one sample, I'll do one more before I'm happy, I'd rather screw it up on a lump of 4x2 than the actual stock.
Then i'll look at bedding using some resin I have.
apparently I can protect the action from getting stuck in the resin by coating the hidden part of the action with natural boot polish, it will also fill any holes.
My assumption is that the resin will bed the stock perfectly to the hole I created and also fill in any of my chiselling marks.
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Old 08-23-2013, 11:21 AM   #6
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Fascinating. Do keep them coming as you progress.
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Old 08-27-2013, 09:15 PM   #7
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dupontin .22
Ok here comes the big update.

I bit the bullet the other night, (well not quite... so to speak!)
I've been waiting on a 1" round nose router bit to arrive in the post, which it still hasn't
I was bored, and decided that I needed to get moving.

With my trusty cheap digital calipers from hobbyking, I measured and worked out that the round action matched a 1 & 1/4" Round nose router bit, (cost ~ $8). The barrel matches a 1" router bit (cost ~ $7)
When I factor in a bit of sanding and my wonky routing skills etc., I should have 1mm or 2mm around the action to bed in with resin, I believe it should bed nicely.

As I mentioned in an earlier post, I'll use a clear/natural boot polish to act as a release agent (actually I'll probably mention it 2 or 3 times more just because I can).

Did I mention I was bored, So I uncovered my routing table (a Triton workcentre) spent about 3 hours trying to remove the old router bit which has been in there for a couple of years, add a can of rust release stuff and off it came, I only had one injury about 2.5cm (1") on my palm, this job was always going to be blood sweat and tears. (no tears yet!)

The routing table is probably best described as a plunge table, the router and bit sit underneath poking up through a hole in the table.
I forgot to take a photo of the stock before I started, but I just happened to order a few of them in different colours, so imagine the photo of the stock with green in it is actually blue, if you colour blind this bit is irrelevant. (lost you all yet ?)

Yea Yea skip to the bloody photo's I know you just did that

So I overlaid the walther Action <-- note the specific mention of Walther...
and started marking out the stock, I used a combination of the actual action & barrel overlaid on the stock and my calipers to measure to find the centreline and mark out the distances, I sat down and measured where I felt the best place for the trigger was and it all seemed to line up
pretty well, the good thing is the walther trigger has an adjustable position so If I'm out by up to 1cm it is correctable.

Then I Marked the routing table & stock with a line of liquid paper (using a liquid paper pen with a long metal nib, this gave me a guide on how far I could cut the trench

So off I went, cut the trench and it was a bit wonky, despite holding against the guard rail, i had slight movement, but a little sanding would fix it, I was fairly pleased with the overall results.

I then marked out the area for the trigger assembly, if you've pulled your rifle from the stock you'll see there are two major sections to it, the further down towards the trigger the smaller it gets.

Next I got my spade bit into my drill press and carefully placed blocks under the stock to level it marked out the positions then drilled out the main centre hole for the trigger all the way through the stock, (the smallest hole ~ 9mm wide) I used a carving drill bit, there's a photo of this bit below.

Then I drilled out about 4 or 5 larger holes (~16mm) holes. to a depth of about 38mm (sorry we work in mm) to form the main trigger assembly trench.

Next step was to sharpen my new set of chisels, tried to shave my arm with it and got my second cut (it was an accident honest !)

I carefully chiseled the trench square, using a combination of chisel sizes and also a new Stanley knife (aka Box cutter/hobby knife).

the photo's show the hole a bit rough, however it is just the flash on the woodwork, it's fairly smooth, in any rate the bedding resin will fix that.

When I tested the action in the trench, it fitted perfectly, with a gap up front which was a little too long, I'll cut that square and use an offcut of the laminate to correct it.

When I tried the action in the stock I realised that once inserted the wood would prevent me removing the bolt.
To fix this I will cut away some of the cheek rest about 10mm or so, and then lower the top part of the bridge to allow the bolt to be removed.

I love intricate wood work like this, it's so rewarding, I'm impatient though ! I can't fit the action completely until I get my 1" round nose router bit

Once I've fitted, I can then determin if the trigger sticks through the hole in the bottom properly, if not I'll sand down the thickness of the stock and trim the action and barrel chanels accordingly.
So far no major issues.

Ok photo time. (let's face it you only read this to look at the photo's)

The first few photo's show a raw stock (remember the greeny coloured one I mentioned earlier .. no ?

The other photo's will follow shortly.
I should also mention, I have never inletted a stock nor done anything to this level before so it's all new territory for me, any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Last edited by dupontin; 08-27-2013 at 10:59 PM.
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Old 08-27-2013, 11:04 PM   #8
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dupontin .22
Thumbs up

This is the promised next set of photo's to go with the previous post. showing the trenches.
I think the key with inletting from reading and understanding how other people have done this is the bedding, you can afford to make minor mistakes with the wood channeling, because the action touches the stock and you use bedding material to provide 100% contact between the stock and action, the barrel does not touch the stock.

anyway enough typing, more pictures
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Old 08-27-2013, 11:06 PM   #9
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More photos
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Old 09-02-2013, 11:10 PM   #10
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dupontin .22
Ok, so I completed the inletting, the barrel channel is not perfect but once my 1" router bit arrives it can fix any rough bits.

Last night I purchased somefibre metal filler compound, which I think is polyester or similar with fibres of stainless steel and fibreglass.
It was a greenish blue colour, so I tested it on my test stock and coated a piece of wood in kiwi natural boot polish, then wait for hardening.
Once it hardened, I could remove the piece of wood very easily, so the boot polish works.
I then coated a piece of tinfoil in boot polish and did the same in the barrel channel, my thinking that If I can get tinfoil off without ripping then the action would be fine.
It all worked great.

So I commenced coating the area of the action that will touch the stock in boot polish, filling any little holes and gaps, using about 1/10th of the tin, not much really.
I then used the green painters tape (3M) to mask out the outside area (edges) of the action hole and the edges of the stock (glad I did that).
I then roughed up the area that I would coat with the filler, using a sharp chisel edge to dig some small holes.

I mixed the filler and hardener, and using some small flat sticks I spread the mix in the hole. the action coated in boot polish went in and I made sure the barrel was held up a millimetre or so the barrel was free floating.
I tightened the action screws and watched the stuff ooze out.
Using the same sticks i cleaned off the excess (glad of the painters tape at this point!

I left it for about an hour, removed it and it looks good, the painters tape came of nicely, I will have to sand the top of the stock to smooth out the filler.

anyone want to see photo's let me know.
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Last edited by dupontin; 12-01-2013 at 07:14 PM.
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