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Old 04-27-2016, 02:08 AM   #31
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: KY
Posts: 56
Pixsurguy .22
The trigger on my M1 (bought 10/15) was gritty when I got it, but after many, many dry fires, appropriate lube (best was a PTFE spray) and a few range sessions, it is now OK. Still has some creep, but not gritty. I carry with one in the chamber, of course, so I don't want it lighter than it is. It is an EDC gun intended for serious business, rather than a range princess.
I say the trigger is "OK", because I've loved and shot a variety of 1911s for many years and those triggers cannot be beaten. No striker-fired gun is going to beat a good 1911 trigger. I always carried cocked and locked and never worried about an ND. I still love the 1911, but the PPS is easier to conceal. No capacity advantage for the PPS, since my 1911 mags hold 8 rounds also. When I need capacity and can dress to conceal, I carry a Steyr M9-A1 with 17 in the mag and one in the chamber.
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Old 04-29-2016, 01:17 PM   #32
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ewigeSchlangenkraft .22
Originally Posted by Pixsurguy View Post
The trigger on my M1 (bought 10/15) was gritty when I got it, but after many, many dry fires, appropriate lube (best was a PTFE spray) and a few range sessions, it is now OK. Still has some creep, but not gritty.
I have yet to attempt a trigger bar guide polish, but another source of grit in my PPS was the slide safety plunger being fouled (though for new owners, this is probably not an issue). Also the plunger and hole can be polished in the manner of the other parts in this thread to improve trigger take up feel.

To remove the slide safety plunger, you will need a 1/16 punch to push in the retaining pin and spring to remove both the extractor and safety plunger (be careful to cover the plunger with your free hand so as to catch any flying parts). Polish all mating surfaces, and especially the shoulder and top of the plunger. It made a significant difference to the take up on mine.

Last edited by ewigeSchlangenkraft; 04-29-2016 at 01:18 PM. Reason: forgot a warning
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Old 05-26-2016, 02:09 AM   #33
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ewigeSchlangenkraft .22
I did a complete teardown on my PPS in anticipation of sending the gun back to Walther to repair a broken trigger safety tab. I've always wanted to do a complete teardown, but I was afraid after hearing the PPS is among the more challenging semiautos to reassemble, so my insurance was that I could send the 'basketcase' to Walther if I was unable to reassemble it in working order.

Well no one lied about it being a *****. That certainly is true, and the first time I reassembled it, I put the "sear housing pin, right" (12.5) in the wrong of two holes (the upper rather than the correct lower). By the second time around the reassembly wasn't as bad by half.

I polished basically every friction point, including the decocker, the 'retainer', the trigger bar guide, trigger bar, disconnector, and frame contact points. The result is ++ satisfactory. Very smooth takeup and then a smooth crisp break at about 5.5lbs, just guessing by feel. I hope to borrow a trigger pull gauge at some point to check.

Anyone attempting this, be forewarned. It is not impossible, but the decocker spring is miniscule, and if you take this gun apart be sure to do it in a well-lit area were tiny parts won't disappear if they should fall on the floor. I was lucky enough to find the spring a few times when it flew across the room. Getting it in place while assembling the sear into the frame is probably the hardest part.

Edit: There is another tiny part that one must be very cognizant of, the left side sear to frame pin. It is so small that one can take out the sear and lose it without even knowing it was there in the first place. Don't ask me how I know. ; )

Also when reassembling, be careful not to over flex the frame, or bear down too hard on the breakdown spring when reinserting the front pin, and just be as gentle as possible with everything.

Last edited by ewigeSchlangenkraft; 05-30-2016 at 12:43 PM.
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Old 06-27-2016, 01:35 PM   #34
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Scott1249 .22
Let me apologize in advance guys...sorry. I didn't see anything about this, but I may have missed it. I was wondering if this was an issie on all CCPs including the latest serial numbers. I know the one I tried in my LGS Was a bit crunchy. I didnt notice the serial number, but I'm thinking about going back to see...I figured reading what I have ,that Walter would have had this issue resolved by now? Wasn't sure if maybe they had different generations, etc?
A man can be beaten in two ways, if he gives up or he dies.

Richard Machowicz

Last edited by Scott1249; 06-27-2016 at 01:39 PM.
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Old 02-10-2017, 05:29 PM   #35
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 50
Core .22
Originally Posted by alfanator View Post
I isolated the friction to the striker assembly.

Safely disassemble the pistol.

Take apart striker assembly.

Polish out the striker where it meets the spring.

Polish the 3 square prongs where it meets with the plastic housing.

Smoothed things out tremendously.

I have had the PPS M1 for some time and the trigger was really long and spongy, with an epic reset. Initially the trigger was extremely heavy, but it shot in over several hundred rounds. I decided to polish the sear surfaces instead of polishing the protective coating from the striker, which in my mind is a beneficial component to the striker. I just polished the engagement surfaces with a extra fine ceramic stone, and oil; the same I use for my 1911 trigger jobs. I am careful to not change the geometry or cut into any surfaces. I then coating all the components with a light coat of Mobile 28 which is what I use to lube my AR Fire controls. The end result is the typical long predictable take up, virtually no creep, and a sudden unpredictable break. I can now press the trigger withh nearly zero movement, which is far better than before while my forearm was starting to muscle the trigger with compound muscles and causing a fair bit of shake. I have lifted for years, and I routinely curl 70 pound dumbells, and I have found it's personally difficult to squeeze a heavy trigger and not engage other muscles that only suceed in throwing my point of aim off... Hope this helps, my advice is if you cannot identify the sear surfaces you should do research before you attempt any diy smithing and ensure you maintain the geometry. The angle on the striker sear face is not 90 it has three millimeters of an upward angle, so be careful and on,y use polishing grade stones. Paper will like change the geometry on any trigger unless you use a block for 90 degree sear face. Without a jig a stone is required for any manually held angles, jigs excluded if someone is savvy enough to build a jig with the proper angles that would be pretty sweet. Best.
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