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Old 03-25-2014, 01:32 PM   #1
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Morts .22
Scratches on stainless

Ok I have a chance to buy a Ranger Stainless TPH, it is in good shape but has some handling scratches. These scratches are very fine scratches if you run your finger over them they can not be felt just seen. Is there a method for removing them? I have heard some use a very fine Scotch Brite pad to remove them. How does one go about removing these handling scratches without affecting finish if possible. As stated before they are not gouged or deep scratches, I am sure most guns get these scratches from simply setting them down when shooting. Thanks
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Old 03-25-2014, 02:26 PM   #2
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MGMike .38
Go to the cosmetics aisle in any drug store and locate what formerly were called "emery boards" for fingernails. There are now some wide, foam-backed ones, and they come in a variety of abrasive grades. Some are practically for buffing. You want a selection of the finest grades.

They are much easier to handle, and more precise, than nylon scrub pads. If used carefully, the sticks will not "soften" (i.e., blur) the markings and will help preserve flats and sharp corners.

If refinished stainless is unprotected, it may tend to rust unless re-passivated, but that's a different problem.

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Old 03-25-2014, 02:34 PM   #3
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Thanks You sir much appreciated.
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Old 03-25-2014, 03:21 PM   #4
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I had some fine scratches on one side of the slide. I picked up a 3M "SandBlaster" auto finish sanding sponge, 320 grit. (3M P/N: 03070) at AutoZone and it duplicated the bright, linear, buffed finish on my Interarms SS PPK/S.

The abrasive is embedded into the flat surfaces of a fairly hard, dense sponge material that gives you a well-supported flat abrasive surface to work from. It only took about 10 passes to remove the scratches. You just have to make sure that you go parallel to the "grain" of the original finish and it doesn't round or soften the edges of the markings since the abrasive surface is much flatter and less compliant than a Scotch Brite pad. You do not have to press hard for it to work.

Here's a link to the 3M product:

3M Performance Sanding Sponge, 320 Grit, 03070
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Old 03-25-2014, 03:24 PM   #5
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I have used scotchbright pads to fix scratched on a 1911 slide several years ago. Realize that if the stainless is bead blasted - you can't fix it that way. You will essentially scratch it up worse if you do.

If the stainless is more of a polished stainless, then this will work. I got a red scotchbright pad from an industrialist supply store at the suggestion of a gunsmith in the 1990s (he stated the green ones won't work well).

I basically went back and forth on the slide - WITH THE GRAIN. front to back, in as perfect of a straight line as I could. IT essentially makes little scratches on the entire surface, covering the ones that you want to get rid of. If you do it right and straight, it basically ends up looking like the grain of the metal, and comes out looking good.

If it is bead blasted, then you would need to have the gun bead blasted to resolve the scratches (usually around $100)
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Old 03-25-2014, 04:23 PM   #6
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Shipwreck, was it the Scotchbrite 7448?
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Old 03-25-2014, 05:17 PM   #7
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That is why I am asking it's on side of the slide. I do not believe it's bead blasted. The ones on my PPK/S are hardly noticeable but I know they are there. I do not want in any way to make them worse. The gun is 99.9% in my opinion with the tiny scratches from handling. I guess I am anal and want it to be back to 100%. I do not carry it and shoot it every few months. I could probably show someone and they may not even see it unless it's angled a certain way. They definitely would not show in a picture.
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Old 03-25-2014, 07:11 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scribe308 View Post
Shipwreck, was it the Scotchbrite 7448?
Honestly, I do not know. I still have parts of it, but it's been cut up. And, I bought it back in 1998, probably. It was a maroon color.
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Old 03-25-2014, 07:47 PM   #9
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Get a tube of Semi Chrome paste. It works wonders getting rid of scratchs on stainless steel.
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Old 03-25-2014, 08:32 PM   #10
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On a really beat-up TPH (the previous owner kept it in the same pocket with a paving brick), I used circuit board etchant to darken the whole surface and conceal the scratches on the bead blasted top of the slide. Be advised that the final product is darker than original, but if the gun has been run hard and put up wet, it's a far cheaper alternative than reblasting.
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