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Old 03-25-2014, 08:33 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MGMike View Post
.

If refinished stainless is unprotected, it may tend to rust unless re-passivated, but that's a different problem.

M
Care to elaborate a bit more on this, Mike?
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Old 03-25-2014, 09:50 PM   #12
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The scotchbrite 7448 is light gray and they say is prefect for removing scratches on brushed stainless...
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Old 03-25-2014, 09:53 PM   #13
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Stainless steel should re-passivate itself over time, and it doesn't take long. What must be avoided is placing contaminants into the steel when doing the refurbishing. For example, if one were to attempt to remove scratches from stainless steel with regular steel wool, some tiny particles of steel fiber "splinters" will break off the wool pad and become imbedded in the stainless (which is much softer). These particles will rust and attack the surrounding stainless of the slide or frame. The same holds true with using any other abrasive that may be contaminated with either metal debris from prior use or chemicals incompatible with stainless steel. For example, stainless is wholly incompatible with sulphuric acid or other strongly acidic compounds found in some cleaners. If you ever want to see "stainless" steel rust like mad, put a few drops of acid from an old car battery onto a scrap piece of and observe the results.

I think if you were to use Mike's method of using abrasive pads, you should be more than safe and not need fuss about harming your PPK's finish. The "grit" material is likely either calcium carbide or garnet, both of which are alkali at heart and inert to the metal of your Walther. "Passivation" is actually a form of corrosion in it's own right, only one that protects the stainless steel from further attack... chromium oxide I believe instead of iron oxide (rust). Thankfully chromium oxide is invisible and doesn't keep attacking the metal.

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Old 03-26-2014, 12:14 AM   #14
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Flitz or rouge and a buffing wheel will work wonders.
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Old 03-26-2014, 08:15 AM   #15
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In the vane of what MGMike stated....... I found a website of a knife/grip maker who sells very fine sanding sticks. Diamond with grits as fine as 2000 or so. Meant for removing and polishing scratches from ivory/tusk/bone grips.
When I make nuts or parts for string instruments from metals.....after all the filing is complete I use crocus cloth followed by various grades of polishing compounds with small buffing wheels.

found it...

http://www.danchinnock.com/ivory-grip-support.htm
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Old 03-26-2014, 08:32 AM   #16
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EZ-Lap makes sanding sticks with diamond dust bonded to a thin steel backing plate that is mounted on a plastic stick about 6" long, 3/4" wide. They come in four grits, color-coded, from coarse to super fine. If applied very carefully they will preserve a flat surface better than the aforementioned fingernail boards because the backing is not resilient. They are useful for work on sears, sights, and other flat edges where very precise cutting or polishing is required. I used to buy a handful every year at the SHOT Show, but they can be ordered. I keep a drawer full of them.

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Old 03-26-2014, 08:39 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HauntedMyst View Post
Flitz or rouge and a buffing wheel will work wonders.
That's fine if you like that "look".

When I see a pistol that somebody has buffed on a wheel with rouge, I move on to something else that has not been so obviously messed with.

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Old 03-26-2014, 09:46 AM   #18
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Carry it more, the scratches will go away.
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Old 03-26-2014, 10:54 AM   #19
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Correct Answer!

You should listen to that guy, "HauntedMyst", he knows. When it comes to refinishing metal, 400grit until scratch is removed then use jewelers rouge and a buffer wheel if you want a mirror finish.

320grit or an emery board used in straight line strokes will give a brushed finsihed look to metal.

As you may be aware the brilliance and deep of the finish firearms is directly proportional to the level of polishing on the metal before the bluing process.

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Old 03-27-2014, 05:23 AM   #20
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I'm late to the party, but scratches a pistol picks up in normal use are inevitable. Lot's of folks think these give a gun "character". If the scratches are minor, leave them alone. If the pistol has been abused - take it to a professional.

Sometimes trying to correct a minor issue creates a "domino effect" and things can really go to heck from there.

Don't ask how I know this!
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