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Old 04-06-2014, 12:01 AM   #21
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Quote:
Less physical drag would leave the slide travel more freely
I have polished my 1911's till with just slide on frame.It will slide back or forward (carefull will come off) by just moving wrist up and down.
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Old 06-16-2014, 12:07 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by JPI View Post
Hi, I am new to the forum. Searched the forum but did not find a thread addressing this specific issue. Please see enclosed photo. Gun has gone twice to the gunsmith, first time verdict was magazine. Second time it was a cracked extractor. Needless to say, it did it again. ...
This thread has managed to retain a little traction for quite some time!

I had a stainless Interarms PPK/S in .380 several years ago that gave me fits with any ammo but the hottest factory stuff available, which made practice expensive! After two trips to an excellent gunsmith, much experimentation/aggravation, and hundreds of rounds downrange, I gave up on it. I suppose the recoil spring was simply too stiff.

Back in 2010 I jumped into the PPK/S pool anew. This has been a much happier experience. My present Walther/S&W has proven to be a reliable companion through many hundreds of rounds from many manufacturers, and I have great confidence in it.

The OP's experiences back in November 2013 struck a familiar unhappy chord. I hope JPI's recent successful experience continues. There are lots of good holsters available for the PPK/S. I use a Galco Fletch OWB holster for mine and like it a lot. I use a two-handed grip nearly all of the time with no issues at all.

Jim

Last edited by searcher451; 06-16-2014 at 02:39 PM. Reason: bandwidth
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Old 06-25-2014, 10:35 PM   #23
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Red face Interarms PPKS Feeding Issue

Jim,
Thanks. Mixed emotions with my PPKS. It is totally unforgiving if you have anything but a death grip on in. Just noticed last time at the range that after the first shot, the next round in the magazine seems to be too much forward which I suspect is causing the miss feed. Seems to only happen when releasing or cycling the slide for the first shot. Got some more testing to do. Guess that at some point I will send it in for a complete overhaul. Not yet at the 100% confidence level.
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Old 06-25-2014, 10:57 PM   #24
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Good luck, JPI. It is just tough having to monkey around with a pistol that you want very much to be reliable. I feel your pain...

Jim
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Old 06-25-2014, 11:15 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by JPI View Post
It is totally unforgiving if you have anything but a death grip on in. Just noticed last time at the range that after the first shot, the next round in the magazine seems to be too much forward which I suspect is causing the miss feed.
Actually, it's normal in the PP-series in .380 for the chambering of the first round to drag the next round forward. Happens with all my .380 PPK/S pistols, both S&W and Interarms.
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Old 06-27-2014, 10:39 PM   #26
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PPKs feed problem

Hi, new member here.

I have a very near mint Interarms PPKs .380 in blue. (1977).

I have not shot it in about 5 years. The last time I did was the second time that I had it out, and only the second time this pistol was ever shot. Both times were a frustrating disaster. Same stories as described above. Bullets not feeding, stove piping out the side. Cursing. Looking skyward. Gladly picking up my Model 10 Revolver and putting the Walther back in the case.

I intend to take it out again this coming week. What I have done recently is polish out a very, very poorly machined feed ramp. I used 600 grit sand paper, then 2000 grit , then Mother's 'Billet'. It took over an hour. The feed ramp had some nasty factory grooves. Really crap work. Thank goodness the rest of the pistol is the sexiest thing ever.

Previously I shot Winchester Flat fronts. This time I am shooting full metal jacket ball ammo. Also, the first two times I took it out I really didn't lube it much. The slide felt SO very heavy and tight. So recently I stripped it down, lubed the spring and barrel and the slide grooves. She feels much better. I have also been exercising it a bit. I lock it back for a few hours, then release it and work it back and forth. It seems to be getting easier... but it still makes me look like half a weakling pulling that tight slide back.

So, we'll see what happens. I will make sure not to limp wrist it, and I promise not to curse too much if it happens again. Will report back.
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Old 06-28-2014, 08:46 AM   #27
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Two suggestions before you head out:

1. Check the magazines; make certain that they are clean, both inside and out ... and especially inside.

2. Take some varying brands of ammo with you and see if you have better luck with one manufacturer than you do with another.

Good luck.
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Old 06-28-2014, 06:57 PM   #28
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Welcome to the forum, PetePK (cool screen name!). You'll find a world of information here and a great bunch of folks who really know what they're talking about. Regarding your Interarms PPK, let's discuss your issue a bit:


Quote:
Originally Posted by PetePK View Post
I have a very near mint Interarms PPKs .380 in blue...I have not shot it in about 5 years. Both times were a frustrating disaster.
Sounds like your pistol is the exact same thing as mine, except that yours is blued and much earlier - mine is #A022348, stainless 9mm kurz made sometime in the mid 1980's. It's a sewing machine now but I've had problems with reliability when I first got it too, because:

Quote:
Previously I shot Winchester Flat fronts. This time I am shooting full metal jacket ball ammo.
You will almost certainly find success when you find the right type of ammunition for your PPK. Like yours, mine will not accept any type of flat-nosed (truncated cone) type of bullet design - it's a definite jam-O-matic if I even try. Find some Independance, Fiocchi or Sellier and Bellot ammunition (if you can) and your PPK will probably become much more reliable. Don't waste your time with any of the Russian junk, either - Wolf or any of the other steel-cased stuff won't work in mine. Some of the Russian stuff (TulAmmo) have very hard primers as well - so hard the firing pin barely dents them and they fail to go off. Even some HP or personal-defense type of cartridges can cause a jam in my PPK but thankfully I've found that Hornady Critical Defense work with 100% reliability. These pistols are notoriously ammo fussy because they're built with great precision with little room for design variances but once you find a suitable match, your PPK will run as good as mine.

Quote:
What I have done recently is polish out a very, very poorly machined feed ramp. I used 600 grit sand paper, 2000 grit, Mother's 'Billet'... took over an hour. The feed ramp had some nasty factory grooves. Really crap work.
I am very surprized to read of this from an Interarms pistol and am almost certain it didn't leave the factory in that condition. Interarms test-fired and inspected these pistols coming from Ranger before releasing them to the world. Whatever the case, your modification will very likely help guide the bullet nose into the chamber and hopefully alleviate some of the problems you've faced. However, I still believe it'll be choice of ammunition that'll ultimately prevail here. And finally:

Quote:
The slide felt SO very heavy and tight. So recently I stripped it down, lubed the spring and barrel and the slide grooves.
PetePK, you don't need to lubricate your springs or especially the barrel (except for a light preservative sheen). That's just going to make a mess and difficult to clean up afterward. The trick to easily racking the stiff (any yes, they are stout) slide of a PPK is to not rack the slide of the PPK.

Huh?

When you need to manually cycle the slide of your PPK, simply hold onto the serrations at the rear of the slide with your left hand. Pinch tightly, and push the frame of your pistol forward with your right hand (reversed if you're a southpaw of course). Once the slide is all the way back and it reaches it's stop, the forward momentum of the frame will exceed the gripping force of your left hand causing your fingers to slip free. The slide will snap forward (as it should) and charge the weapon. Much easier this way.

Quote:
So, we'll see what happens. I will make sure not to limp wrist it... Will report back.
Awesome! I can't wait for your range report... and get some pictures of that PPK posted soon, PetePK! We all love to see pictures of these beautiful pistols; it's easy to do. Here's mine:



-Pilotsteve
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Last edited by Pilotsteve; 06-28-2014 at 07:06 PM. Reason: quote fix
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Old 06-29-2014, 12:16 AM   #29
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Thanks Pilotsteve

Thanks for the thoughtful response pilotSteve. Good info. I do hope my Winchester ball bullets work out. (The stuff is expensive!)

I will surely report back, and will post a photo most likely sooner of the '77 PPKs.

I LOVE Walther pistols. They are like (hot) females. You gotta spend a little time and make nice before things go smooth.
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Old 06-29-2014, 03:19 AM   #30
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Recoil Spring Installed Backwards - Short Cycling Issues

Whenever a PP series is having feeding issues remove the slide and check the recoil spring to be sure it's not installed backwards. If it is you'll have short cycling malfunctions and possibly gouge your barrel.
.
With factory recoil springs a coil is cut and bent in to form a tight end to prevent the spring from flying off when the slide is removed. To install the recoil spring put the tight end on the barrel first and push it all the way down until it stops at the chamber end. The large loose end of the spring should be at the muzzle end of the barrel so the slide can cycle without binding.
.
If the factory spring is on backwards the sharp end of the coil will drag along the barrel as the slide recoils. This extra friction causes short cycling malfunctions similar to limp wristing.
.
Don't assume the recoil spring was installed correctly at the factory. If you have trouble removing the slide on a new gun there's a good chance the recoil spring is on backwards.
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