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Old 10-07-2013, 09:33 AM   #11
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MGMike .38
A good diagnostic technique for Point #2 --to ensure the chamber is clean, bright, and not glazed with a film of varnish-like schmutz, is to remove the slide and hold the pistol vertical with the muzzle down. A cartridge should drop smartly all the way into the chamber, and should fall out by gravity alone when the pistol is inverted. If it doesn't, either you haven't scrubbed the chamber well enough or the ammo is not correctly dimensioned. (It would be very rare to find the chamber undersized).

This technique must be tried with samples of each of the brands or types of ammo that you intend to use. Cartridge cases are not created equal; some will be larger or longer than others, or have other dimensional anomalies. And bullets are all over the place in size, weight and contour. Test them all.

Examine the chamber walls in bright sunlight; they should be white, not yellow or brown. Scrub the chamber by twirling a bronze brush in a rotary motion that will get into the sharp corner at the front of the chamber.

Copious oiling and/or fastidious lubrication rarely has any significant effect on a clean gun that is chronically malfunctioning; look for some other cause.

And supposedly "weak" recoil springs, in my judgment, are almost never the cause of failures to feed.

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Last edited by MGMike; 10-07-2013 at 03:14 PM.
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Old 10-23-2013, 07:17 PM   #12
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Sector_Q .22
"Weak" recoil springs are prone to be better, another way of saying they are "broken in". In fact, I prefer "lighter" recoil springs such as made by Wolff. (16, 17, 18 lbs : For USA made Interarms PPK/S .380). This allows a wider range of ammo brands for reliable feeding. The stock 20 lbs spring is what makes the gun "picky" about ammo.

What I've explained here is for actual defensive use with premium (hotter) ammo for hollow point expansion. This does batter the gun and has higher recoil, but it is RELIABLE in my experience. When I go to the range for recreational plinking, then I'll use whatever ammo is abundant or available and with the stock 20 lbs recoil spring. Any jamming to occur is welcomed (and anticipated) as a chance to practice my response to the situation.
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Old 06-04-2014, 07:39 AM   #13
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jm16 .22
I swapped out 17 lb for the stock 20 lb because my 380 Interarms was difficult to
rack. Now it cycles perfectly.
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Old 10-22-2014, 12:25 PM   #14
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MGMike .38
The extent to which feed stoppages can result from dimensional differences between brands of ammunition is often underestimated. For example, a minor difference in the width of the extractor groove machined into a rimless cartridge case can result in interference with the inward seating of the extractor claw and produce misalignment causing a failure to feed.

Always the first step: try other ammo.

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Old 10-22-2014, 12:35 PM   #15
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MGMike .38
An additional diagnostic technique to isolate a bad magazine: test functioning with only three or four cartridges loaded. (I mean actual firing, not snap-cap twiddling.) This test reduces the curvature of the cartridge column with .32ACP, .22 LR and 9mm Para, and minimizes friction drag on the magazine feed lips and on the slide. If it works fine with 3 but not with 8, the mag lips are probably okay, but the cartridge OAL is suspect.

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Old 12-26-2014, 12:31 PM   #16
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salukispeed .22
Great suggestions from the start, Thanks
I had nagging issues with failure to load and eject with my 32 cal PP and all the disassembly, cleaning and oiling was no help, But two new Mags cured everything. Now It will reliably work with Remington FMJ's and Winchester FMJ and JHP. I was thrilled to see it operate flawlessly for over 250 rounds now.
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