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Old 05-13-2012, 04:48 PM   #1
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P22 - Function of Fire Control Components Illustrated

Let me see if I can sort this out and add the pictures back in some type of order that makes sense after losing the photobucket picture order. I still have the pictures.....just need to sort them out again. OK The players are listed below.




Hammer all the way down, double action.



1. If there is no magazine in the pistol and the magazine safety is working it will press down on the trigger bar not allowing it to engage the hammer cocking strut or the sear. The trigger will simply move back and forth as you pull and release it.





2. When you begin pulling the trigger rearward the trigger bar begins to move rearward and the trigger bar spring begins to lift the trigger bar. This lift is essential.

3. Fully inserting a magazine, loaded or empty, into the pistol and locking it in place physically presses the polymer safety foot upward, compressing the safety spring and rendering it non functional. The top of the expanded metal catch ears on the magazine are the portion of the mag that engages this safety and push it upward. The trigger bar is now free to rise a sufficient amount to properly engage first the hammer cocking strut and then the sear.




4. As the trigger bar moves rearward, the trigger spring positions that portion of the bar located between the two rear vertical legs so it engages the front notch of the hammer strut.



As the hammer strut is pressed rearward and begins cocking the hammer, the front nose of the strut drags along a short section of the floor of the left side plate or left side of the frame. The engagement and timing of events these parts control are critical to proper operation so don't go grinding on stuff other than the trigger bar ears. Polish, yes, grind away....NO! It is critical that the front nose of the hammer strut not be ground or worn down or this part will disengage from the trigger bar before the hammer is properly cocked. Cocking the hammer against the hammer spring pressure forces the front end of the strut downward where the bottom of the nose slides along the frame. Walther has carefully engineered this component to release from the trigger bar but it must be at the right time.

As the trigger is pulled further rearward, the trigger bar pressing the hammer strut rearward and in the process cocking the hammer proceeds until the top, outer edge of the rear of the trigger bar engages a small steel pin imbedded in the sides of the frame. This pin causes the trigger bar to move downward as the trigger bar continues to be pressed rearward. At the right position and moment in relation to sear engagement the hammer strut slips off the trigger bar allowing the hammer to fall and the pistol to fire.



5. Concurrently, as the trigger bar moves rearward engaging the hammer strut, the two rear legs on the trigger bar begin to engage the bottom legs of the sear. The sear is rotated out of the way as the trigger bar is still engaging the spur. With the sear rotated counterclockwise the front arm on the sear, opposite of the ejector, and which until this point has engaged the firing pin block also drops and in the process allows the internally spring loaded block to free the firing pin.

6. So with the sear rotated out of the way, the firing pin block freed, the hammer will drop just as soon as the slanted pins force the trigger bar downward enough to release the spur/hammer. This is part of the reason double action action isn't so good for target practice. A cocked hammer and single action requiring much less trigger travel and using the sear for release is better than a sloping pin and release by the trigger bar.

7. In single action much of the above has already been accomplished, the hammer is cocked and the sear has engaged the cock notch of the hammer. The trigger is also pulled rearward by a pin through the front of the hammer spur. This takes up slack and positions the trigger rearward for less pre-travel for single action shots.

What happens here is the trigger bar rises, engages the bottom legs of the sear and rotates it counterclockwise off the hammer's cock notch. The same action regarding the dropping of the front arm and freeing of the firing pin block also. When the sear breaks the hammer falls. The trigger bar is still engaged and holds the sear clear of the hammer. When the slide moves rearward after a shot is fired, two ramps under each side of the slide engage the two trigger bar ears which knock the spring loaded trigger bar downward and in the process disengages it from the sear. The sear then quickly rotates clockwise in time to catch the hammer and hold it cocked.



Notice that none of the springs are installed. This has no impact on illustrating what is going on but if they are in place it sure makes holding the camera and the pistol much more difficult if you are doing this all by yourself. My finger for example replaces the mag safety spring in pressing the safety foot down. Other components have been placed in their proper position for illustrating what is going on. The only error is that the nose of the hammer strut is positioned a little too low. When the left side of the frame is installed, a floor, pictured later, fits under the strut and does not allow the nose to drop as low as it is in some pictures.

Disregard that sentence "also notice that the". What I meant to say is that the hammer is not far enough rearward for the sear to engage the cock notch but that isn't important as the sear is kept rotated out of the way if everything is working properly. The sear plays no part regarding release of the hammer in DA. Walther wouldn't have put those slanted pins in the side of the frame if it worked some other way. Caution, the tolerance and timing here are critical which means don't jump in there and start grinding on stuff. Polish.....yes, file and grind....no. Here is what is happening above in DA. The trigger bar is being moved rearward by the trigger. The trigger bar has engaged the hammer strut and begun to rotate the hammer rearward. Looking closely you can see this in the picture above and that the top part of the rear trigger bar legs are barely engaging the sear and have rotated it out of the way of the hammer. With the trigger bar properly positioned, the sear barely held out of the way, the rear shoulders of the trigger bar slide down the steel pins until the hammer strut slips off of the trigger bar allowing the hammer to fall. DA release....totally different from SA.


Hope this helps. M1911
searcher451 and Towns like this.

Last edited by 1917-1911M; 01-20-2018 at 10:44 PM.
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Old 05-13-2012, 05:35 PM   #2
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This is quite the project, 1917; very nice, indeed. Not sure it's the best way to spend Mother's Day (), but the P22 folks on the forum will certainly appreciate your efforts. Thanks for taking the time and providing such exacting detail.
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Old 05-13-2012, 05:47 PM   #3
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This is quite the project, 1917; very nice, indeed. Not sure it's the best way to spend Mother's Day (), but the P22 folks on the forum will certainly appreciate your efforts. Thanks for taking the time and providing such exacting detail.
Well Searcher, both of our Moms are gone after having lived good lives. The children are grown and not at home. One is getting married here this September which means Mrs. 1911 has a list of stuff she wants done that is longer than my truck. Mother's Day dinner for her....uh, no. Trip, no....what would you like. Route those new 8x8 cedar columns and paint em, then for Mother's day, I want that door removed, the hole framed and drywalled and painted. So, I'm sitting here waiting on the mud to dry. After a few more coats and then some sanding and priming...it can be painted.

Working on guns is easy. M1911
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Old 05-13-2012, 08:43 PM   #4
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Working on guns is easy. M1911
Not for everyone, but you have certainly made it easier even for those of us who struggle. Thanks again for posting these gems.
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Old 07-19-2012, 06:44 PM   #5
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help with a P22

is anyone here from north alabama? i traded for a p22, it functions good but the hammer doesnt strike with enough force to ignite the primer. this is my first p22 and i really want to get it up and running. I am going to my first competition in a bout 6 weeks. any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 07-19-2012, 07:07 PM   #6
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is anyone here from north alabama? i traded for a p22, it functions good but the hammer doesnt strike with enough force to ignite the primer. this is my first p22 and i really want to get it up and running. I am going to my first competition in a bout 6 weeks. any help would be greatly appreciated.
There is a whole gaggle of em recently posting in the PP/PPK section. Then they got into all that AU/BAMA stuff and I had to leave. Folks in Mobile probably think I'm in northern Bama.

Couple of things to check. Make sure a round freely drops into and out of the chamber. If it doesn't seat due to lead or dirt build up you will get light strikes. You must also check to see that the firing pin moves freely. With the pistol empty set the safety lever to fire, cock the hammer and press in on the rear of the firing pin. It is spring loaded to reset all the way to the rear as it must and it must push in and spring back freely. You could have a weak hammer spring but that is unlikely. If you are getting no firing pin marks then you most likely have a trigger bar issue.

What year is the pistol. You can tell by the two letter code on the right side of the frame at the chamber. AF AG AH AK-'09 model or BA-2000, BB-2011, etc.

It takes 8 lbs of pull to cock the stock hammer. M1911
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Old 07-20-2012, 12:32 AM   #7
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It has the AG on it. Im beginning to think this thing will never shoot. My income is limited, so thats why Im looking for someone who can hopefully help me out. any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
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Old 07-20-2012, 11:00 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by 1917-1911M View Post
There is a whole gaggle of em recently posting in the PP/PPK section. Then they got into all that AU/BAMA stuff and I had to leave. Folks in Mobile probably think I'm in northern Bama.

Couple of things to check. Make sure a round freely drops into and out of the chamber. If it doesn't seat due to lead or dirt build up you will get light strikes. You must also check to see that the firing pin moves freely. With the pistol empty set the safety lever to fire, cock the hammer and press in on the rear of the firing pin. It is spring loaded to reset all the way to the rear as it must and it must push in and spring back freely.
You could have a weak hammer spring but that is unlikely. If you are getting no firing pin marks then you most likely have a trigger bar issue.

What year is the pistol. You can tell by the two letter code on the right side of the frame at the chamber. AF AG AH AK-'09 model or BA-2000, BB-2011, etc.

It takes 8 lbs of pull to cock the stock hammer. M1911
Did you carefully check the above. They don't cost anything. Or, if you don't want to fool with it call the toll free 800 number at S&W, punch in 3 for customer service and ask for help. They usually send a mailing label which covers shipping costs both ways, they fix the pistol and send it back for free. M1911

Last edited by 1917-1911M; 07-20-2012 at 11:02 PM.
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Old 07-21-2012, 06:02 PM   #9
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p22

I keep seeing all these things wrong with the p22. I got mine in June of this yr. When i 1st got it the gun store told me to use the federal bullets 36 or 40 grain. well every time i used them i had a problem every time. I knew it needed to be broke in as well. So we Went to walmart of all places and bought CCI 32 grain. Same problem. Well after that we went back to walmart and bought the CCI 40 grain and CCi 36 grain in hallow points. And i haven't had a problem with it since then. Well today we were just shooting and i bought the federal 40 grain and i had the worse problems with it. But i went back to the cci's and no problem i have shot over 1000 rounds in it. So my question is. Did i get lucky and get a good gun. or is there really something wrong with these guns. I have always heard people just don't want to spend the money on the good ammo and then complain something is wrong with it. knock on wood mine has been the best so far. my husband has a 9mm h&k and i still love my walther p22.
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Old 07-21-2012, 06:04 PM   #10
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i live in bama. I live in northwest bama. Walker county!
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