P22 stovepipes 10th round: Magazine information - Page 2 - WaltherForums
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Old 04-02-2011, 11:32 AM   #11
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One other thing to check, the follower button on the magazine engages the slide stop arm after that last round is stripped from the mag. Is the stop arm free and operating smoothly and not binding the follower from moving up on that last round? You can check this with an empty magazine inserted to see that the parts are moving freely and operate the stop arm up and down with no magazine so you can determine if the stop arm is free. It needs to be free so that the follower can move all the way up after the last round is fired and you need to make sure your shooting thumb is not dragging on the stop arm. M1911
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Old 04-02-2011, 12:45 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by 1917-1911M View Post
Nope, the extractor should have nothing to do with it. The stock extractors on P22s old style or new don't hold the spent case on the face of the beech block nor is the face recessed in a manner that allows the rim to be caught and held in a secure location. This is all part of the problems P22s had with the large gap between the extractor tip and the breech face which allows the case to just float around.
... M1911
Okay, I am willing to be educated: what is it, precisely, about the current magazine that cures a last-round failure to eject? Higher protrusion of the follower?

(I should have dragged my early P22 out of the safe for a refresher view before getting involved in this thread. I take your point that the breech face is not configured--there's practically no left buttress-- to allow the extractor to positively hold the fired case in position to be ejected, so the extractor is unlikely to be the culprit.)

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Old 04-02-2011, 06:55 PM   #13
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The p-22 in question is new, about 200 rounds fired thus far, and the stovepipe problem just began about 50 rounds ago. The ejector appears to be intact, and the extractor is clean and functions fine. I keep all of my guns clean and lubricated, and I make sure not to overlubricate (I guess all that time in the Army DID teach me something!). The magazine is a stock Walther mag that came with the gun, The spare mag is the same type, and has the same problem. I use CCI mini-mags and Federal copper high velocity ammo, both mags have the same problem with both types of ammo. I am going to take a closer look inside the gun and will let you know. Thanks-bjb
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Old 04-03-2011, 12:05 AM   #14
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The p-22 in question is new, about 200 rounds fired thus far, and the stovepipe problem just began about 50 rounds ago. The ejector appears to be intact, and the extractor is clean and functions fine. I keep all of my guns clean and lubricated, and I make sure not to overlubricate (I guess all that time in the Army DID teach me something!). The magazine is a stock Walther mag that came with the gun, The spare mag is the same type, and has the same problem. I use CCI mini-mags and Federal copper high velocity ammo, both mags have the same problem with both types of ammo. I am going to take a closer look inside the gun and will let you know. Thanks-bjb
Hmmmm????? If it were just the Federals I might write this problem off to rounds that are just a little to weak to fully cycle the slide but if this were it you would be having this problem at times other than the last round. As someone mentioned earlier a spent case is blown out of the chamber with enough energy to press the slide rearward with enough force to cock the hammer and the rim of the case to still bounce off of the ejector with enough energy to throw it out there 10' or more.

How about the year of manufacture of the pistol and a description of the magazines. The year is told by the two letter code as seen on the right side of the chamber when viewed through the ejection port. BA is a 2010 pistol. Back in about '06 or '07 ( some of those pistols are still sitting on the shelf as new pistols btw) Walther changed the magazines by shortening the stagger slot to a length of about 3/8" from the 1" previous length. This screwed em up. Shortly thereafter they returned to the long stagger slot, aded a taller spring retaining nub and made the box of slightly thicker steel. These are denoted by a B suffix on the part number printed on the sides of the magazines. Earlier mags were A suffix. The Bs are the latest and all come with long stagger slots.

I'm assuming you have inspected and cleaned the magazines, that the follower is moving freely all the way to the top, that the slide stop arm moves up and down freely. The only difference on that last round is that the slide stop arm is engaged and the follower is all the way at the top of the magazine. I need to go back and read your original post again. You are getting a stovepipe on the last round. Why isn't your slide being caught by the slide stop? Just to be clear....I was thinking you were saying that when the last round is fired, the spent case is caught by the slide with the rim end jammed between the breech face and the chamber and the open end of the case sticking straight up. Or, is it the last round stovepiping and not being chambered. I'm not understanding why your slide is closing after that last shot unless you are holding the stop arm down or have removed it. M1911
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Old 04-03-2011, 12:17 AM   #15
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My p-22 stovepipes the last round out of the magazine on EVERY firing cycle..... anybody else having this problem? If so, is there a simple (or difficult) solution to this problem?
OK, I got off track by reading responses and not reading your original post carefully enough. I would say this is entirely a magazine problem. Did you buy the pistol new? What year is it? The new pistols, beginning in '09 came with only 1 magazine. The A series long slot mags work perfect. The short slot A mags will: Cause jams, cause stovepipes with live rounds, allow a live round to jump out of the pistol while the next round is chambered. I have five and none of them work properly. S&W will replace them if you have that magazine and are having problems. But if you have a new pistol you should have B suffix mags.

I'm not sure anyone is an expert on what makes these mags work and what doesn't. But proper functioning magazines are essential to the proper function of all semi auto firearms. AR or P22. Can you borrow a magazine from a friend and try his/hers. Perhaps buy a new B magazine and try that. If all else fails call the 800# at S&W and ask them to fix it for you. They will for free. I have a thread with pictures on all of the magazines that have been produced for the P22 through the years at RFC. I can link it here if you like. It might already be in the sticky info at the top of this section.

Stay after it, sound like there isn't enough pressure from the follower on that last round and it is slipping out too soon and too easy.....but like I said my short slot mags screw up 1st round, 4th round, 8th round....there is no consistency to the screw ups. How a round jumps out of the pistol while the next one is chambered is beyond me, but it will in those mags. Year of pistol mfgr? Mag type? M1911
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Old 04-03-2011, 09:38 PM   #16
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Will S&W replace the mag even if the gun is out of warranty? Is it the mag or follower that is the problem on the older mags?
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Old 04-03-2011, 10:32 PM   #17
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Will S&W replace the mag even if the gun is out of warranty? Is it the mag or follower that is the problem on the older mags?
Actually, from what I have been reading over the past 8 years, there is no limit to the warranty. If you have a problem S&W will fix it. Here is a pictorial of the magazine history. The only two bad magazine models are the originals that had no stagger slot and the short stagger slot model. Walther was trying to fix another issue when they designed and produced the short slot mags. I was asked not to tell what they were trying to do but it didn't work and neither did the mags. They had a short life and were replaced with the B mags.

Their life wasn't short enough as I still have 5 of them. BTW, if you lengthen the slot.....they are as good as A or B models. M1911

P-22 Magazines, Photo History - RimfireCentral.com Forums

Mag history with pictures.
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Old 04-03-2011, 10:48 PM   #18
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I'll check it out.

Last time out I had some trouble with mine. I get the occasional stove pipe, but this time the gun was not feeding rounds. It seems that the slide was not coming back far enough to catch the next round. I'm not thinking this is a mag problem. I think that it had too much oil on the rails and was dirty. I cleaned it today and smoothed off the hammer so it didn't drag on the slide very much. I've been wanting to do this for a while. When I cycle the slide manually, it goes back smooth and easy until it gets to the hammer. Then it becomes much harder to move. You can really tell the difference. I filed it until it barely drags. I will see if this helps the problem.
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Old 04-03-2011, 11:00 PM   #19
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I'll check it out.

Last time out I had some trouble with mine. I get the occasional stove pipe, but this time the gun was not feeding rounds. It seems that the slide was not coming back far enough to catch the next round. I'm not thinking this is a mag problem. I think that it had too much oil on the rails and was dirty. I cleaned it today and smoothed off the hammer so it didn't drag on the slide very much. I've been wanting to do this for a while. When I cycle the slide manually, it goes back smooth and easy until it gets to the hammer. Then it becomes much harder to move. You can really tell the difference. I filed it until it barely drags. I will see if this helps the problem.
You really can't file enough material off of the hammer to stop it from dragging on the breech block and have the safety bar still cock the hammer. If you file too much material off the face of the hammer it will not be pressed far enough rearward for the sear to catch and the hammer will follow the slide back forward and be caught on the safety notch. To restore cocking you will have to file material off of the full cock notch on the hammer. This is pretty serious business when you do sear/notch work and you need to know what you are doing so that the cocked hammer is securely caught and can't slip off the sear.

The problem with the P22 hammer is that it drags under the breech block with considerable upward pressure. This causes two problems......wear on the frame rails due to the upward pressure and a lot of drag especially when the tip of the hammer catches in the small notch between the rear of the sear and the safety bar. Re-profiling the hammer face just a bit is intended to remove the tip so that the hammer glides over the gap. Not, keep it from dragging on the bottom of the breech. I finally figured out the mod for that and it works great.... M1911
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Old 04-03-2011, 11:04 PM   #20
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Here is the latest breech block and safety bar mod.......but this one is a bit tricky if you aren't pretty handy at this sort of thing. M1911

New Breech Block Mod....I can hear Walther groan - RimfireCentral.com Forums

The above mod really frees up the slide to move forward freely and with much more energy for chambering a round. Once the hammer is cocked.....the breech block no longer touches it. This should have been my original breech block mod idea.
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