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Old 04-22-2010, 07:12 PM   #11
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Thanks for the advice.

By the way, silica gel in whatever form, will absorb moisture.

It's a naturally occuring substance.

I've seen it offered in a frame with an indicator that turned pink when it was full. You just stick it in the oven and bake the moisture out of it and it's good to go again.
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Old 04-22-2010, 08:46 PM   #12
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Thanks for the advice.

By the way, silica gel in whatever form, will absorb moisture.

It's a naturally occuring substance.

I've seen it offered in a frame with an indicator that turned pink when it was full. You just stick it in the oven and bake the moisture out of it and it's good to go again.
Yep....I had one of those. I think it's made by Remington. Sportsmans Guide sells them. They seem to work good. But only for a relatively small and enclosed space. They won't work for something as large as a closet. Works good in a gun case or safe, though. They turn colors when they absorb moisture. Then you just plug them in a wall socket for an hour or so and they are recharged and ready to use again.



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Old 04-22-2010, 08:54 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Deputy View Post
Yep....I had one of those. I think it's made by Remington. Sportsmans Guide sells them. They seem to work good. But only for a relatively small and enclosed space. They won't work for something as large as a closet. Works good in a gun case or safe, though. They turn colors when they absorb moisture. Then you just plug them in a wall socket for an hour or so and they are recharged and ready to use again.
The one that I was looking at was something you could put in place with a pistol or two. It wasn't designed to protect a collection. I'm just familiar with silica gel and how it works.
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Old 04-22-2010, 08:58 PM   #14
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Here's the one I was talking about:

http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/cb.aspx?a=180353



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Old 10-13-2010, 08:19 PM   #15
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besides desiccants,for weapons that are not going into a safe or if you need the type of rust protection that you simply apply from a can,the best that i have come across so far is,CORROSION BLOCK. in other words,something you just buy in a can and use.

CORROSION BLOCK:right now it comes in a white and blue can with the name in green. imo,it is better than corrosionX,LPS,CRC,etc..it's not a primer and it's not a wax and it won't make your gun look ugly or ruin it.it's also safe for plastics and rubber and it's very long lasting.

it's the best there is in the boating community,in fact,you'll find it in the better marine shops if they are worth their salt(pun intended).it's a little bit more money,just under $20 around here for a 12oz. can,but worth it.

after trying different products,i use it on my motorcycle which sits outside under a cover in the hot,muggy,humid florida weather and it works!! it won't remove rust that is already there,of course,but even if you spray it directly on rust that is already there,it will stop it in it's track.on surfice with no rust,rust will not form if applied properly. on the guns in my cabinet or night-stand,i simply put a drop on my finger and rub it on all the outside metal(since the insides have a dry lubricant which protects anyway). although it's also supposed to be a bit of a lubricant,since i apply so little of it,i can manipulate my pistols with no problems and it's not all really greasy.you can also give it a quick wipe with a rag and it will still protect.

there are three ways to protect metal from rust: a)apply some kind of barrier that keeps oxygen away. b)apply some kind of chemical that reacts with the elements to keep from forming rust. c) remove at least one of the elements necessary for rust to form.

by the way,some of you might be surprised to learn what/who are some of the people/companies that choose CORROSION BLOCK to protect their expensive equipment.

i have nothing to do with this product,i just use it.
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Old 02-24-2011, 10:23 PM   #16
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From our newest member phuongvan: "Gospel according to St. Gunman".

I love it.

And from Searcher, quoting some idiot: "Cleaning the magazine is not necessary but every 1,000rds or so, depending on how dirty the ammo is you are using".

William, did he REALLY say that?

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Old 02-24-2011, 11:34 PM   #17
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That and much more, although we all somehow compromised at the point of attack on that one, I suspect. Onward and upward, as they say.

Meanwhile, our phantom poster is ... gone with the wind that blew through Georgia. And Azberjain. And Turkmenistan. And Uzbekistan.
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Old 02-25-2011, 11:35 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by MGMike View Post
From our newest member phuongvan: "Gospel according to St. Gunman".

I love it.

And from Searcher, quoting some idiot: "Cleaning the magazine is not necessary but every 1,000rds or so, depending on how dirty the ammo is you are using".

William, did he REALLY say that?

M
Looks like phuongvan's post has disappeared. I wonder why?

As to the comment about cleaning mags...other than a quick wipe off of the exteral body and follower after a range session, the only time I disassemble a mag for cleaning inside is if it gets dropped in sand or mud. And since I don't do torture testing or drop my mags to the ground, I have had no need to disassemble them to clean them. Some folks have reported mags fresh from the factory with gunk inside of them, I haven't experienced that. I also don't "rotate" mags or ammo. I load it up and leave it loaded. To each his own.



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Old 03-11-2011, 02:38 AM   #19
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I had some issues with "spot rusting" on some of my guns about 2 years back. The cheapest and best way I've found to keep my guns from rusting is to get the silicone packets. Alot of the times you can pick them up at gunshows or just get them from a shooters supply store, another good place to gather them up I've found is boot boxes. Most of the time when you buy boots the box will have some of the packets in them and it's great to this as many as you can find in your safe. Another thing I've invested in is gun socks, Winchester makes the silicone coated guns socks that are around 4 bucks and you can get em at walmart.

Another problem I run into is buying guns that I didn't expect to buy and running out of small soft cases. I normally store pistols in the bottom of my safe in these soft cases to prevent rust or rub marks on the finish. A great way to protect a pistol that you've recently purchased and haven't gotten a soft case or even if you haven't gotten the room in the safe for it is to put it in a heavier winter sock. Yup, a sock. Lol Hey, everyone has the one pair of socks that one mate has a hole in it. What better way to use the one good sock than to protect the finish on your gun. Not to meantion it's holed brother will make a great cleaning cloth!
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Old 07-15-2013, 06:33 PM   #20
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To me, using the word "rust" to describe corrosion is on a par with using "clip" to describe a magazine. Rust is a color and, in the case of iron, red.

The point of all corrosion control is to prevent oxidization. Lubricants are typically used seal a metal off from water [containing oxygen] and oxygen itself. Or, you deliberately corrode the metal, essentially, by anodizing it. It forms a thin layer of oxidization to prevent more serious corrosion affecting functional strength of the metal.

The other option is to remove and/or replace the oxygen.

You could replace all the air with nitrogen. It is non-toxic and non-reactive. We used it in wave guides for radar. It was a biproduct of producing oxygen for pilots in the USN.

Another option is to remove all gases and put it in a near vacuum. If you can find a container that will take a seal and a vacuum pump, that is less difficult to produce at home than nitrogen. You just have to run the pump periodically to maintain the vacuum for any leaks and those times when you remove your firearm for use.

Other than that is the reaction of dissimilar metals. In the USN, we found an anode a metal. The anode would be corroded rather than the metal or metals to be protected.

You can establish many methods and protocols to do all of the above for corrosion prevention. Otherwise, you can just sacrifice a layer of metal every time you polish it to remove the corrosion. I think I will just call my .38 Special S&W Model 10-8 "Rusty."
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