Modell 8 (Variation 1) in collection: parts and extractor issues - Page 2 - WaltherForums
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Old 07-29-2012, 04:00 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by MGMike View Post
Wisner's website, incidentally, has an extensive list of other parts sources.
I did notice that. Great of them to do that. Not every business would.
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Old 07-31-2012, 11:28 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by metrotps View Post
I got the replacement from here Welcome to Wisner's, obsolete gun parts. about 3 years ago.
FYI... for those who are interested, Wisners no longer offers the Modell 8 extractor.
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Old 08-01-2012, 12:07 PM   #13
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Here is the extractor picture. Not the best. I have a cheap camera.
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File Type: jpg Extractor1.jpg (43.4 KB, 36 views)
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Old 08-01-2012, 07:44 PM   #14
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Here is the extractor picture.
From the looks of the submitted picture, it appears that your replacement extractor will likely need to be fitted in order to work with the pistol. When outfits such as Wisners manufacture some of these obsolete gun parts, they make them a tad oversize, as A) it's easier for them, as they do not have to match the exact tolerances of the OEM part, and B) a gunsmith would likely be employed to do the work, and would wish to properly fit it into place. If you're not up to the task of filing the part down a little at a time then trying to flex it into place, then maybe you should ship the whole operation to Tom Heller and let him do it, but if you are of the adventuresome sort as is the case with myself, and are not afraid to try (and perhaps fail), then let's get to work.

The diagram I have put together generally outlines the process. You're going to need some jewelers files, and 800-1000# emery cloth to polish the part when done filing.

The square boss on the side of the extractor fits into the slot in the side of the breech block and interfaces with the slot in the firing pin to limit its forward travel when in place. It may not fit into the slot in the block. If that is the case, you will have to determine where it needs to be filed down, and doing small areas at a time, keep trying to slide it into the square slot until it fits nicely - not too tight, not too sloppy, but can be slid out easily.

The curved portion of the spring is too thick as is, and WILL snap if you try to flex it into place, so material will need to be removed from there as well to make it much more pliable - but not too thin that it will snap when flexed. I needed to take nearly half the thickness off (from the outer side of the curve) before it matched the factory extractor's thickness. With the jeweler's file, uniformly file away just the curved outer portion of the extractor until you have removed about half of the material - again, small increments at a time, checking for uniformity over the entire radius of the curve. See diagram to see the difference between filed and not filed. When the desired dimension is achieved, polish it with the emery cloth until mirror-like, as it will aid in sliding into place during installation.

With the slide clamped into a padded vise, now is a good time to assemble the breech block and carefully study how all the parts work and where they should be. The round boss on the upper portion of the breech block interfaces with a round recess inside the slide. Drop the block straight down, directly over where it needs to be, and take note of its position, as you will need it to be very close when the block starts to drop into position. You will see the curved portion of the extractor, and will get a feeling of how much it needs to flex before it clears the ridge of the slot.

When you're ready to begin, you will need to wedge a small jeweler's slotted screwdriver between the outer curve of the extractor and the side wall of the slide. With a prying motion, use leverage to flex the spring inward, and when you are getting close to it being flush with the ridge of the slot, begin to push the breech block assembly down until the spring finds the slot in the slide beyong the ridge. When you are pressing down, the block will not find the proper position if the round boss isn't aligned with the round recess in the top of the slide. You may have to gently tap it into place with a wooden dowel and rubber hammer for it to fall into place. If the spring portion of the extractor hasn't snapped, and the block has fallen into position, then you have succeeded.

If the steps I outlined above scare the living daylights out of you, and you have beads of sweat running down your forehead just thinking about it, then perhaps you should send the gun and replacement extractor to a competent Walther gunsmith such as Tom Heller, as he's done more than a few of these.

And if this is worthy of a sticky, by all means post it...

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Old 08-04-2012, 11:10 PM   #15
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Wow great instructions! I see what you mean about beads of sweat... This definitely deserves a sticky IMHO.
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Old 08-05-2012, 11:18 AM   #16
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A Sticky it is. We've also given it an updated title; if you have any thoughts on a more inclusive title for the thread, now's the time to holler.
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Old 08-05-2012, 01:45 PM   #17
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A Sticky it is. We've also given it an updated title; if you have any thoughts on a more inclusive title for the thread, now's the time to holler.
Maybe add "Variation 1," as the extractor issue and repair only apply to the first variation Modell 8s with removable breech block and internal extractor.

Because of the frail extractor, Walther changed to a fixed breech block and external extractor on the second variation pistols, similar to the subsequent PP-series.

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Old 08-05-2012, 09:05 PM   #18
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I would be inclined to a different approach. The curved middle section is already weak and is the most stressed-- why thin it down? I would rather get the clearance needed by trimming down the seating flats at the back end.

Just a thought... I don't have the gun in front of me, or even own one.

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Old 08-06-2012, 02:46 PM   #19
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The curved middle section is already weak and is the most stressed-- why thin it down? I would rather get the clearance needed by trimming down the seating flats at the back end.
Upon purchasing the replacement part from Jack First, I was told that it would likely need to be fitted, and was not "drop in ready." I ordered one and upon receipt I found that I would need to file the square boss so that it would fit into a side slot on the breech block. My gut feeling at the time was that the curved portion of the new part was quite beefy - especially when compared to the Walther original part (broken part pictured below) that was quite thin - maybe 1/3 the width of the replacement part. I decided to go forward and try to install it as is. At the point when I flexed it inward it immediately snapped. I called Jack First and told them what had happend and they offered to send me another at n/c, with the understanding that if I broke the second one, it was on me. I expressed my gratitude for the fine service and awaited delivery of the second extractor.

While I waited, I conferred over the telephone with two Walther gunsmiths whose names appear prominently and often in these forums, as well as with a local gunsmith in person, and it was agreed upon by all that the curved section needed to be thinned considerably in order to have the amount of flex needed to install.

As I previously posted, I filed the new one until it matched the thickness of the original Walther part, and with a bit of sweat, she popped into place without incident.

Regarding trimming down the seating flats, that's not an option as that would introduce unnecessary play into the lateral fit of the breech block.

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Old 08-06-2012, 06:53 PM   #20
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..

As I previously posted, I filed the new one until it matched the thickness of the original Walther part, and with a bit of sweat, she popped into place without incident.

Regarding trimming down the seating flats, that's not an option as that would introduce unnecessary play into the lateral fit of the breech block.
That's fair. It was only a thought on my part, and without benefit of hands-on experience with the Model 8.

I can see why the design was changed.

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