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Old 02-13-2016, 02:50 PM   #21
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ewigeSchlangenkraft .22
Thanks for making the video, Ekjunge! I have been wanting to pick one of these up ever since I handled one at a LGS but all the issues made me wary. Now that I know there is enough visual guidance out there to use in case I have any issues, combined with the serial number issue tracking, I feel like I can risk a purchase. I already have a PPS M1 9mm, and a PPQ M1 on the way, so I mostly just like the CCP for its quirky charms. Hopefully I will get a good one, or a marginal one that can be massaged into reliability.
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Old 02-13-2016, 05:39 PM   #22
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Ekjunge .22
Get the highest serial number that you can find... Don't take anything with a blued barrel or a square drop safety- even though mine has both and has been trouble free.


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Old 02-21-2016, 04:57 PM   #23
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alphaparabellum .22
How are you all getting the roll pins out of the frame? I have attempted to punch them out with a flat faced punch so as not to deform the end of the roll pin. It seemed like I was hitting it pretty hard and the pins dont budge. Is there a trick>? A Certian direction that they have to be removed? I have only 250 rounds through the pistol and do not want to screw it up.
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Old 03-16-2016, 10:51 PM   #24
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walt_c .22
Yes, excellent job Ekjunge on making this video!
Like dkalbach, I too was successful in taking my CCP down to the "system housing" (part #7) for polishing after watching Ekjunge's video 2-3 times. [WARNING: keep your parts separated an on a soft paper towel to keep them from rolling together. Springs and bolts look alike.]
I spent 2 Saturdays polishing any and all parts that make contact with another metal surface. The must polish parts: #10 cylinder, #11 ejector; #14 connector; #15 sear, #7 system housing (top and cylinder tunnel), #9 bolt, #43 firing pin safety, #45 striker, #31 trigger bar, #6 bolt for trigger bar.
After polishing, very important to get ALL traces of polishing compounds out of all surfaces and crevices. Then I use Hornady One Shot w/ dyna Glide Gun Gleaner & Dry Lube spray.
My trigger pull is so smooth now that I only feel resistant right before the sear disengages! I have a bit of OCD. Most of the parts I polished are close to a mirror finished. Some parts like the connector and sear, I would polished all the sides. Holding the small parts and polishing them is challenging. I use a small needle-nose pliers with tapes on the very tip to firmly hold slippery parts for polishing.
Take your time and have patients. The result is worth it! This polishing got rid of the nasty, hard metallic grinding you feel when you pull the slid from an already cocked striker. That grinding is almost imperceptible now. If you have this issue with your CCP, you will have to thoroughly polish the firing pin safety and the connector along with polishing the top surface of the system housing.
I was seriously thinking of trading in my CCP for a M&P Shield before this polishing job. But like the old Colt 1911, once you get the slide tighten, parts polished and tuned, it's a beautiful piece of machinery. It's a shame the CCP didn't come from Walther that way.

The last problem I am having is the CCP (especially just above the trigger area)gets so stink-en hot just from 4-5 clips of "double tapping" practices. Anyone have a solution to this problem? Or is this a design flaw with the "delay blow back" system?
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Old 03-16-2016, 10:56 PM   #25
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walt_c .22
If you are referring to (part #3) the roll pin 3x24, its tight. Try a little WD40 to loosen it up. I had to wack it pretty hard the first time to move it. It was easier the second time around. My punch keep getting stuck in the grip and had to be removed with a set of pliers.
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Old 03-16-2016, 10:58 PM   #26
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Wink

Quote:
Originally Posted by alphaparabellum View Post
How are you all getting the roll pins out of the frame? ...
If you are referring to (part #3) the roll pin 3x24, its tight. Try a little WD40 to loosen it up. I had to wack it pretty hard the first time to move it. It was easier the second time around. My punch keep getting stuck in the grip and had to be removed with a set of pliers.

Last edited by searcher451; 03-17-2016 at 09:18 AM. Reason: bandwidth
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Old 03-16-2016, 11:11 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobloch1 View Post
What lube did u use on reassembly ???? great video thanks
This maybe old, but I had great luck with Hornady One Shot w/dyna Glide Gun Cleaner & Dry Lube.
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Old 03-16-2016, 11:23 PM   #28
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The heat is a function of the design. The hot gases have to go somewhere and the metal portion of the frame acts as a heat sink... Slow down your rate of fire and you should be okay..,
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Old 03-17-2016, 12:14 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walt_c View Post
...The last problem I am having is the CCP (especially just above the trigger area)gets so stink-en hot just from 4-5 clips of "double tapping" practices...
Try using magazines, they run cooler than clips.
(Sorry, couldn't help myself!)
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Old 03-20-2016, 06:23 PM   #30
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where can I get a factory rear sight got up from cleaning gun and dropped the slide and it landed on the sight

Last edited by rw2; 03-20-2016 at 06:27 PM. Reason: checking out
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