What would you like to see changed on the CCP? - Page 4 - WaltherForums
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Old 09-17-2015, 07:19 PM   #31
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gene 1 .22
Pilot, I think you are right on everything, except I do like the rail for a light. My little XDs 9 has a rail & I do like it. It doesn't make it any harder to carry, & it is one of my favorites for carry. Until I got a CCP. The easy rack means a lot to me.
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Old 09-17-2015, 11:13 PM   #32
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1917-1911M .38
Let's see...this is a self defense pistol.

Put some good self defense sights on it. It isn't a target pistol and better sights don't mean you can't aim it accurately should you need to.

Then, delete the trigger spring and bolt along with the spring and bolt that holds up the trigger bar.

Replace both with one PP type spring that serves the function of both deleted parts.

Clean the cylinder bore and polish it and the cylinder to eliminate all grittiness.

Adjust that trigger bar for less trigger movement and reset distance.

Polish the rear of the drop safety so it slides up onto the right side of the ramp that disengages it when cycling. Eliminate that gouging and make life easier for the drop safety.

The safety rotates too easily, deeper detents or stiffen the plunger spring.

There has got to be a better slide retention and take down system. There is a big counter plate back there held in place by two pins...this makes it easy to remove for a replacement system that holds the slide/striker assembly someway differently. I'll have to think on that one more. How does the P7 work?

I think I can eliminate the bump.....would the pistol be safer with no bump, no pulling the striker back and releasing it? Seems it would be better.

That is one funky magazine catch, particularly the one leg spring. I'll have to think about that one.

Loaded chamber indicator....a viewing port? Can a shooter see any portion of the case when the slide is closed?


Ergonomics....good
Looks............good
gas system....good I guess, nothing has broken there that I know of, it might not dampen recoil that much but it does allow for a lighter recoil spring and that is good.
Polygonal barrel....good
Mag capacity....good

M1911
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Old 09-18-2015, 09:00 AM   #33
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Loaded chamber indicator....a viewing port? Can a shooter see any portion of the case when the slide is closed?
There is a viewing notch in the top rear of the ejection port but it's hard to see the cartridge.

More important to me would be an external indicator to tell if the striker was cocked or not. Of course, we have the tactile "bump indicator" (could that be by design?) but a small spring loaded pin that protrudes from the rear of the slide when the striker is cocked would be nice.
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Old 09-18-2015, 09:49 AM   #34
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Maybe not the purpose of this thread, but ...

Continue to improve the robustness of the parts.

Eliminate the possibility of chambering a round without setting the striker.
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Old 09-18-2015, 10:27 AM   #35
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>The safety rotates too easily..
Mine is good as is...just enough tension. Tho' as a southpaw I leave it off for carry.

>There has got to be a better slide retention and take down system.
This had to be a cost decision and a poor one at that. Most negative press on this gun revolves around this mistake.

>Loaded chamber indicator....a viewing port?
Cost again. Port works but I can only see the case rim in bright lighting...with my glasses.
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Last edited by Mamba; 09-18-2015 at 10:35 AM.
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Old 09-18-2015, 11:36 AM   #36
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Any number of pistols use a spring to reset the trigger and operate the trigger bar. Bodyguard above but essentially the same concept as any PP pistol. The front end of the spring is caught by the trigger when installed. The long leg sticks straight up. You then rotate it counterclockwise and hook the long leg under the trigger bar. You now have pressure on the trigger and constant lift on the trigger bar. Exactly the same as the CCP except the CCP uses four parts to accomplish the same. Why?

I would have to study this more but in order to remove the slide on the CCP you have to do two things. Lift the locking catch and press the rear of the striker assembly forward until it clears the counter plate hook. How about a simple button through the slide. In order to align it you pull the slide back, say 3/8", press in the button which does two things. First it wedges the lock upward so it clears the counter plate and at the same time fits into a hole or slot on the portion that fits into the hook. Letting the slide forward 1/4" causes the locking components to disengage from the counter plate. You then lift the rear of the slide. Reassembly is the opposite. M1911
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