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#11 | |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 2
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Quote:
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#12 |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Oregon
Posts: 11,458
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That grip is a whole bunch to hang onto, all right. Did you see the replacement grip that CDNN was offering? I have no idea whether it's still on their website. Wait, just found it: Stock No. WALF, SP22 Slimline grip (for smaller hands) for $19.99. Ah, the wonders of the internet. Good luck.
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#13 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 5
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Wont fire but know the cause & repair
I have owned my SP since they first came out. I had the same problem as mentioned. I found a "flaw" in the trigger mechanism that allows trash to fall in between it and the back of the frame. Its very easy to see when the grip is removed. If you squeeze the trigger with the slide off, you will see the mechanism moving in the handle of the pistol and a tiny spring that keeps tension on it. You should be able to light through this area but mine is ALWAYS full after 50 to 75 shots. Also I use a suppressor so it compounds the problem.
Also mine is an M1, this only has a final hard-stop adjustment on the trigger. The M3 and M4s have more adjustments. My M1, after at least 2000 rounds through it, has has that plunger "set screw" actually screw in further preventing the pistol from firing. Just get a little screw driver and unscrew it a little and see if that works. Email me if you have further questions. |
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#14 |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Oregon
Posts: 11,458
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That's excellent information, boschbrakes. Thanks for joining the forum and for posting this advice -- and for offering additional help as needed. That's a great service for frustrated owners of the SP22.
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#15 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 5
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After reading all the forums I have come to the conclusion that all SP22s suffer from this "flaw". I am going to try to modify mine, maybe a cover for that area. It gets really bad when I use my suppressor (YHM Stainless Steel Mite). Also any of these Winchester, Federal, or Remington boxes of 550 are crap. I use SK .22 sub-sonic or High Velocity ammo made in Germany and you can see the quality difference at a glance and, WOW, what a difference. Nearly no non-fires & very accurate. Cant buy it at Walmart though. I have a Ruger SR22 that I have fired 1000s of rnds with using those "box'o bullets" & they always have a 15% fail rate at least. Its ok when you are pinking with your 10/22 but you have a Walther SP22 that is a target gun (very few shots with high accuracy). They are to be shot with love and care & good ammo. I buy mine from J&G sales. Also the CCI Blazer .22 box of 550 is the best ammo out there reliability, once again not available at Walmart but is cheaper in most cases on line from several dealers like S&G Ammo. Like $14 a box. Thats alot of fun for $14.
If anyone has questions about a suppressor addition and what to expect, let me know. |
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#16 |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Oregon
Posts: 11,458
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Again, this is great information and a nice service to all here with SP22 issues, BB; thanks. If you are successful in your modification, please consider documenting your work with photographs as you progress and posting them here ... for the visual learners among us.
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#17 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7
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Since getting my sp22 back from smith and wesson for repair, i havent had a single problem with it since. I completely agree with boschbrakes on the bulk ammo you can buy from walmart or academy. It gunks up the gun so bad, mine after maybe 300 to 400 rounds quits firing. I end up having to strip clean it and start again. I have been using eley ammunition, and havent had a problem with it. Its alittle more expensive, but it works very well through this gun. I don't have a suppressor for mine since its illegal where i live, but regular shooting of this gun with higher price ammunition works very well.
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#18 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 1
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I recently bought a SP22 M2, came across this post/forum, and I wanted to share my thoughts. I initially had trouble with the trigger. I would need to squeeze it 5 times to make it fire. I was pretty pissed that it stopped firing after 100 rounds, until I discovered the set screw. After backing it up it shot beautifully. Unfortunately, as it got worn in, I had to back up the screw more and it would block the magazine. Currently I have it set just far enough to let the magazine in and it will only stop once or twice every time i take it to the range. I took measurements of the trigger and plan on making a replacement with the trigger bar joint a little further forward so the trigger itself doesn't have to travel back as far. Plus, a machined trigger wont have that bendy plastic feel. Other that that I love this gun. If my new trigger works well I could post the design files if anybody is interested.
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#19 |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Oregon
Posts: 11,458
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Interesting solution; thanks for sharing it. By all means post up a photo or two if you have any luck ... it might just help someone else down the road.
Welcome to the forum; enjoy your time here. |
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#20 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 1
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Here in Australia my mate and I both bought M4's. Both have had problems not firing. I stripped mine down and was amazed to find that the sand finish on the grip is over-sprayed on the inside. This then comes away and mixes with any oil or residue, forming an abrasive paste that was in all the working parts. I had to lightly sand away the over-spray, clean out the grip and take apart the mechanism and clean it.
I am about to sort out the trigger pull. I had backed out the adjuster screw, but as someone else on here has mentioned, if you go too far it fouls on the magazine. Anyone got any suggestions on how to do this as I don't trust the manual as it seems to have too many incorrect instructions. |
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