PPQ Trigger Pull

[Abwehr]

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After purchasing my PPQ, I had the "gritty" trigger and followed instruction on polishing the Trigger Bar where it contacts the Firing Pin Block. Then had to bend the Trigger Bar contact very carefully and improved the "grittiness" feel from the Safety Block.

Still had the bit of "stickiness" with the trigger pull. I removed the Safety Block and the pull is SO much better. The pull weight is the same and has always been good, but now it is so smooth.

I do not plan on using the PPQ as my carry weapon, just a range pistol and target shooting. Shooting was excellent with most hits in the 9 & 10 ring at 10 yds and I feel now it should keep most shots in the 10 ring.

As a clarification, I do not want to start a war concerning safety by removing the block, but I have been shooting pistols for over 50 years and have always been safe. But, I would like to ask you guys opinion on removing the Block. A couple of friends of mine at work said if the factory put them on, don't remove them. A few more said they agree with my decision to remove so the pull would be smoother. My current carry pistols are a Beretta Cougar or a Sig P250 and a Ruger LCP in an ankle holster. I do not plan on any modifications to these pistols

Still love my Walther pistols though!!!!!

[Boogs]

I wouldn't feel comfortable removing it. To sacrifice safety (potentially) for a slightly smoother trigger is a compromise I would not be willing to make, but that's me.

How many rounds through your PPQ? With a clean, oil, and few hundred rounds I believe it would have polished itself smooth on it's own, BUT, if your method works, it works.

[richholland]

I agree with Boogs. I wouldn't do it ... but I also wouldn't have done what you already did.

I have about 1100 rounds through my PPQ, and the trigger feels great to me.

[dstroud]

I had the same exact issue and it drove me nuts for 2 weeks. Like you, I tried the polishing which was little help. Removing the FPB proved where the issue lay, but is not much of a solution.

What has made a world of difference is using gun grease- TW25B in my case, on the FPB and trigger connector. I actually pop out the FPB, clean the hole, and re-grease all of the contact points. At the risk of sounding like a shill, the grease is a miracle. I ran a few hundred rounds through the PPQ and it was still effective. Some may not like the idea of grease in the FPB hole, but it's easy to clean and doesn't seem to get dirtier than lube.

For what it's worth, the only other lube I've tried is Weapon Shield and Ballistol, both of which were useless for this particular issue. They're still useful elsewhere but the grease is amazing.

Oh, and the action of the greased trigger is not quite as smooth as with the FPB removed, but I actually prefer having it in because it gives better tactile feedback and a bit of resistance. Having no FPB made the transition from takeup to break too harsh.

[MistWolf]

Re-install the striker block and apply grease to the places the trigger bar makes contact. Removing the striker block isn't a good idea as the striker is fully cocked. It's different than the firing pin block of the 1911 which simply keeps the firing pin from striking the primer if the pistol is dropped. The striker block keeps the striker from firing the pistol if the trigger is not pulled in case a sear fails or if the pistol takes a hard enough hit to jar the sear. The striker block also keeps the PPQ from firing out of battery

[Dsiwy]

Removing the safety block on a SA pistol is very bad mojo

[Dcowboyscr]

I wouldn't have removed the firing pin safety.

As far as triggerpull smoothness I did nothing at all not even lubricate anything to improve the smoothness. I simply dryfire(with snap caps) which is invaluable practice anyway and shot 2,100 rounds.

My trigger is super smooth now.

[MistWolf]

Originally Posted by Dcowboyscr

I wouldn't have removed the firing pin safety.

As far as triggerpull smoothness I did nothing at all not even lubricate anything to improve the smoothness. I simply dryfire(with snap caps) which is invaluable practice anyway and shot 2,100 rounds.

My trigger is super smooth now.

That's an $800 trigger job

[balance]

The striker block keeps the striker from firing the pistol if the trigger is not pulled in case a sear fails or if the pistol takes a hard enough hit to jar the sear. The striker block also keeps the PPQ from firing out of battery

I agree.

Taking the FPB out is a terrible idea IMO.

[CFRHunter]

Put the FP block back in and go to grease! The FP block is there for a reason.

I’ve got 2 PPQ-9s, the 2nd had a decent trigger out of the box, but the 1st had the gritty trigger and the bar was out of alignment with the FP block. With #2, I did some slight polishing and went to grease, great improvement. On #1, I did the polishing, and bent the trigger bar slightly to correct for the misalignment, and went to grease. I’d say the trigger on #1 is better than #2.

I’m not a big fan of “shooting a gun smooth” when a few minutes of work will accomplish the same thing. But, I’m also not afraid of making a couple hundred dollar mistake and have lots of spare guns laying around.

Mistwolf has some very good pictures of the PPQ trigger with details on where to lube with grease. Hopefully he’ll post them again, or the several threads in which they appeared.

Chuck