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PPQ Trigger Pull

28K views 88 replies 38 participants last post by  kampers 
#1 ·
After purchasing my PPQ, I had the "gritty" trigger and followed instruction on polishing the Trigger Bar where it contacts the Firing Pin Block. Then had to bend the Trigger Bar contact very carefully and improved the "grittiness" feel from the Safety Block.

Still had the bit of "stickiness" with the trigger pull. I removed the Safety Block and the pull is SO much better. The pull weight is the same and has always been good, but now it is so smooth.

I do not plan on using the PPQ as my carry weapon, just a range pistol and target shooting. Shooting was excellent with most hits in the 9 & 10 ring at 10 yds and I feel now it should keep most shots in the 10 ring.

As a clarification, I do not want to start a war concerning safety by removing the block, but I have been shooting pistols for over 50 years and have always been safe. But, I would like to ask you guys opinion on removing the Block. A couple of friends of mine at work said if the factory put them on, don't remove them. A few more said they agree with my decision to remove so the pull would be smoother. My current carry pistols are a Beretta Cougar or a Sig P250 and a Ruger LCP in an ankle holster. I do not plan on any modifications to these pistols

Still love my Walther pistols though!!!!!
 
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#75 ·
Did that. Doesn't help. If I take a punch and push at the angle the trigger bar hits the FPB it is really gritty to get it to press in. I took out the FPB, cleaned the area up, and then greased the FPB and the hole it sat in. It helped a little bit but definitely not even close to as good as my friend's PPQ M2 that he bought the week after me.
 
#76 ·
Smoke Triiger grit Fix

Hey had my smith do the fix on my gritty take up PPQ M2 BUT he found that the new M2 has the saftey plunger pinned in place not
removable so it seems different from the M1 or classic in that regard.

Called Walther and they said that could be but since Germany has not sent the new schematic on the M2 yet they could not say for sure if it had changed to a pinned and non-removable saftey plunger.

They expect new schematics for the M@ is "a few weeks".

Everything else was done and more but that little part cound not be done for the above reason.
 
#79 ·
I am refering to the plunger that smokemup identified as one of the culprits if you have some grit on the take up. In his info it can be removed and polishes and the channel it fits into as well. M2 is a no go plunger is pinned in place according to my gunsmith who polished my actions and addressed the take up grit.
 
#89 ·
Get a new Gun Smith.

There are good gun smiths and then there are not so good gun smiths. Not ever gun smith can know about all the different guns. Some are better than others. I didn't realized this until I got older and started taking my guns to different gun smiths. The older one's were more experienced and did a better job on the guns I took to two different gun smiths at the same store. The first gun smith was younger and quite after a few months on the job. But that was after he installed a new trigger for me. The trigger was unsafe and fired when it was not suppose to. IE working the Bolt on the gun caused the trigger to fire. Opps. The new gunsmith (older guy) figured out the problem and fixed it for me. But it just goes to show that not all of the gun smiths are the same.

The design on my PPQ M2 is a spring under and in the hole on the bottom of my FPB cylinder. The FPB goes up and down inside a larger diameter hole in the slide itself.

NOTE: the area around the extractor, under and around the FPB and the hole in the slide can get dirty after shooting the pistol a few rounds. I shot my PPQ M2 about 1000 rounds before I noticed the dirty stuff under the FPB. I've since clean that area up really good and lubed it back up with Pro Shot Zero Friction oil. I'm now wondering if I should put a little grease in that hole where the FPB sits in the side for better lubrication. Think of a car engine piston sliding up and down inside the cylinder of the engine? That's how I some what picture the FPB going up and down inside the hole in the slide (under near side of the slide)

Also the other fin on the trigger bar makes contact with the half moon cut out area in the slide. This area needs to be oiled as per the Walther PPQ M2 manual. That is a friction point. But the Walther PPQ M2 manual didn't say what type of oil to use to lubricate that area. I've tried some Pro Gold gun grease and then wiped it off as I had a little bit too much grease in the half moon cut out area and on the top of the trigger bar shark tooth. I think it's the rear most shark tooth or lob on the Trigger Bar. That fin helps guide the trigger bar and keep it in the right location so that the other lob on the trigger bar can make good contact with the FPB fin where it's suppose to.
 
#84 ·
My M2 has the gritty take up and the plunger is at fault. I can totally remove it, and I've just been lazy to find a gunsmith that will nickel teflon coat it for me to make it buttery smooth. I've already taken it out once (you have to remove the extractor to let it out) and I tried really lubing it up and it helps marginally. I wonder if I can get the channel it sits in a bit more polished.
 
#85 · (Edited)
Someone (I'm too lazy to look it up) sent their FPB to Bruce Gray to have it coated. As I recall, they were happy with the results.

http://grayguns.com/

I've contemplated sending one of mine off, BUT, I keep going back to the thinking that the ONLY time I notice any grittiness is when I'm sittin' at the work bench playing with the trigger...squeezing Veeeeerrrry slowly and using ALL my sensory receptors in an effort to determine if I can feel any roughness/dragyness, etc. It's only then that I say 'Ahhhh, yes, I can feel that'.

Now here's the REAL WORLD....when I'm actually shooting the pistol, I NEVER feel the aforementioned grittiness, cuz, for one thing, I don't release the trigger that far between shots....only far enough to reset (for the most part). And the second reason, is because I'm not rackin' my pea brain trying to see if I can feel at what point the resistance increases/or maybe I feel some grittiness. Nope, I'm just going bang, bang and lovin' every minute of it.

The gritty trigger thing is a sittin' in your recliner or at the work bench, repeatedly pullin' the trigger and tryin' with all your might to feel some grittiness.

I will have to admit, I did tweak the trigger bar on one pistol (thanks to smokemup) and it made a very nice improvement. I know others on this forum (that have the mechanical ability and understanding) have performed this tweak with the same satisfactory results. On the flip side, this mod isn't for everyone.

The easy answer here is to remove the FPB, send it off to Grayguns and have it coated. Reinstall and enjoy.
 
#86 ·
imanoldfart is correct but since the trigger was the main reason I purchased the PPQ there is a valid reason why any flaw is a concern.

Question how does one remove the ejector so that I may remove the firing pin block/plunger? If polishing the plunger and channel don't do it i think i go to gray guns for a nickel/teflon coating?
 
#87 · (Edited)
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