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Old 04-02-2010, 07:27 AM   #1
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WaltherNorway Unproven
PPK trigger pull

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Hello everyone. Walther Newbie from Norway here.

I've been reading these forums for a while but this is my first posting.

I recently purchased a S&W produced PPK in cal. 32. In contrast to the experiences of many users on this forum, my PPK have worked flawlessly.

I really like the gun, and it's great to shoot. The only thing I'm not so fond of is the trigger pull. I find it rather heavy / hard. I am consdering replacing the hammer spring with a lighter one form for example Wolff springs. My question is then; will this effect the force of the hammer strike on the firing pin, and again maybe cause som failures to fire, due to lighter hammer strikes.

Any experiences with this?

I'll appreciate any feedback from you more experienced walther owners.

Best regards
DHK
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Old 04-02-2010, 08:50 AM   #2
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Milspec .38
Quote:
Originally Posted by WaltherNorway View Post
Hello everyone. Walther Newbie from Norway here.

I've been reading these forums for a while but this is my first posting.

I recently purchased a S&W produced PPK in cal. 32. In contrast to the experiences of many users on this forum, my PPK have worked flawlessly.

I really like the gun, and it's great to shoot. The only thing I'm not so fond of is the trigger pull. I find it rather heavy / hard. I am consdering replacing the hammer spring with a lighter one form for example Wolff springs. My question is then; will this effect the force of the hammer strike on the firing pin, and again maybe cause som failures to fire, due to lighter hammer strikes.

Any experiences with this?

I'll appreciate any feedback from you more experienced walther owners.

Best regards
DHK
Welcome! That's not surprising...the .32 seems to work better in most versions of the PP-series, not just the S&W's. You can certainly reduce the hammer spring weight a bit and the primers will continue to pop but there are two sides to the equation. If you go too low on the hammer spring weight you may need to increase the recoil spring weight to compensate. The resistance of cocking the hammer also helps to delay the slide opening. I'm sure that some of our members who have done this already (or the nice folks at Wolff) can help you match things up...

Milspec
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Old 04-02-2010, 11:18 AM   #3
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Kurt_D .22
Wollf, themselves, do NOT recommend installing a reduced force hammer spring for a critical use (self defense) gun. You do run the risk of FTF (Failure To Fire) from light firing pin strikes on the primer if you go too low. I'm also not so sure that if you reduce the hammer spring force, to one that is still reliable, that you will see the kind of trigger pull force reduction that you expected.

You can always experiment but realize that the comments made by Milspec are in effect. If you use hotter (more powerful) ammunition than standard, you would NOT want to reduce any of the forces controlling the recoil and slide cycling of the gun.
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Old 04-02-2010, 12:08 PM   #4
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Thanks for the replies guys. I feel a bit wiser now

I was not aware that you ought to change the recoil spring if you change the hammer spring, but when i think about it it makes sense.

I'm only using the gun for target shooting at the range, so I'm not worried if a lighter spring would cause an occasional failure to fire.
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Old 04-02-2010, 12:10 PM   #5
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MGMike .38
If you have an S&W that works, leave it alone! Don't let the tail wag the dog.

Kurt D is absolutely correct: any improvement in trigger pull from changing springs that remains within the envelope of reliability will not be great enough to justify the alteration. You might "fix" the DA trigger pull just enough that the gun won't fire during the winter months in Norway.

If you normally use a two-hand hold, it's pointless to worry about DA trigger pull anyway. Use the thumb of your off hand to cock the hammer and fire all shots in single action mode. It's practically as fast, and you'll get a huge improvement in the accuracy of the first shot.

Over the years I've seen many Walthers of all eras of manufacture with DA pulls that ranged from "Stubborn" to "Impossible". In my opinion, the springs don't have much to do with it. The quality of the DA pull is influenced principally by the fit and geometry of the little DA pawl on the hammer and the angle at which it rests on the cocking piece, as well as the precise fit between the hammer and the top ledge of the hammer spring strut. Changing any of these is a delicate job for an experienced fitter who understands Walthers. Any mistake there and you'll wind up needing new parts to repair the damage. I've never thought the whole process was worth the effort.

Incidentally, I think S&W recognized the importance of the DA pawl on the hammer, as they redesigned the hammer to have two of them; previous Walthers have only one. The problem is that they still have to be hand-fitted to realize any advantage, and the unskilled assemblers and non-existent final inspectors at S&W Houlton evidently think that hand-fitting is something you do when buying gloves.

M
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Old 04-04-2010, 11:06 PM   #6
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Aaron244 .22
Quote:
Originally Posted by MGMike View Post
If you have an S&W that works, leave it alone! Don't let the tail wag the dog.

Kurt D is absolutely correct: any improvement in trigger pull from changing springs that remains within the envelope of reliability will not be great enough to justify the alteration. You might "fix" the DA trigger pull just enough that the gun won't fire during the winter months in Norway.

If you normally use a two-hand hold, it's pointless to worry about DA trigger pull anyway. Use the thumb of your off hand to cock the hammer and fire all shots in single action mode. It's practically as fast, and you'll get a huge improvement in the accuracy of the first shot.

Over the years I've seen many Walthers of all eras of manufacture with DA pulls that ranged from "Stubborn" to "Impossible". In my opinion, the springs don't have much to do with it. The quality of the DA pull is influenced principally by the fit and geometry of the little DA pawl on the hammer and the angle at which it rests on the cocking piece, as well as the precise fit between the hammer and the top ledge of the hammer spring strut. Changing any of these is a delicate job for an experienced fitter who understands Walthers. Any mistake there and you'll wind up needing new parts to repair the damage. I've never thought the whole process was worth the effort.

Incidentally, I think S&W recognized the importance of the DA pawl on the hammer, as they redesigned the hammer to have two of them; previous Walthers have only one. The problem is that they still have to be hand-fitted to realize any advantage, and the unskilled assemblers and non-existent final inspectors at S&W Houlton evidently think that hand-fitting is something you do when buying gloves.

M

I sent my S&W PPK/S back to the factory because of poor feeding and light strikes. The light strikes would usually occur in DA mode only. If I recall, my DA trigger pull seemed a bit light, but maybe it was just me getting used to it. I'm not sure. Anyway, when I got it back the note said they "Repaired Hammer Clearance." Do you have any idea what that means, or why it was producing light strikes? Last trip to the range it set off every primer, so I guess they fixed it.
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