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Old 04-14-2012, 11:09 AM   #1
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Fred99 .22
My "P22 Bible" Mod Experience

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Having read the P22 Bible (thanks 1917_1911M!), I took my brand new P22 (prior to firing it) to a gunsmith to have them perform the mods to make sure my P22 is reliable.

The sales guy I spoke with seemed very impressed by the P22 Bible but I am not sure this was conveyed to the actual gunsmith and I suspect I got a rush job. The gunsmith seemed unenthusiastic and conveyed the general attitude that I should just fire the gun and if I had problems then bring it in.

I'm attaching a scan of the receipt. Unfortunately this doesn't give me a lot of confidence in what was actually done.

In the process the gunsmith lost the slide lock spring so until that can be replaced, it randomly locks the slide back as you are firing.

Even though he told me he modified the extractor, it does often tend to eject casings directly back in my face.

What type of .22 LR ammo is known to be troublesome in a P22? I'd like to buy some and see how well it feeds though my P22.
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File Type: jpg Ahlmans_Receipt.jpg (23.4 KB, 95 views)
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Old 04-14-2012, 11:45 AM   #2
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Interesting. Maybe you should share the guy's name so other's don't get burnt?

Here are just a few links to look at...

Hands down the best ammunition for your P22(01-04-2011 through 02-10-2012)

Ammo review for the Walther P22 (Windy with lots of pictures) (02-07-2010 through 02-08-2010)
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Old 04-14-2012, 11:52 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred99 View Post
Having read the P22 Bible (thanks 1917_1911M!), I took my brand new P22 (prior to firing it) to a gunsmith to have them perform the mods to make sure my P22 is reliable.

The sales guy I spoke with seemed very impressed by the P22 Bible but I am not sure this was conveyed to the actual gunsmith and I suspect I got a rush job. The gunsmith seemed unenthusiastic and conveyed the general attitude that I should just fire the gun and if I had problems then bring it in.

I'm attaching a scan of the receipt. Unfortunately this doesn't give me a lot of confidence in what was actually done.

In the process the gunsmith lost the slide lock spring so until that can be replaced, it randomly locks the slide back as you are firing.

Even though he told me he modified the extractor, it does often tend to eject casings directly back in my face.

What type of .22 LR ammo is known to be troublesome in a P22? I'd like to buy some and see how well it feeds though my P22.
Of course like anything else there is a right way to do something and a wrong way. Most of the mods to the P22 address, routine, recurring issues. You should be able to take the pistol out of the box, clean, lube, load and fire. Many of us over the years haven't found this to be the case. The only part that can actually damage the pistol are the sharp trigger bar ears. The top, front edge needs slightly rounding and polishing. The new style extractor can not be peened, it will break. That mod was for the original style. The hammer tip and the rest of the mods are for functional improvement like keeping the slide from hanging up on the hammer tip. You can't improve anything regarding the ejector. That isn't causing poor ejection direction. The gap between the extractor tip and rim is the problem.....that and that the breech face isn't recessed to hold the rim in place. Blowback gasses blow the spent case out of the chamber. The extractor doesn't do anything but it should cause the rim to pivot over it as the left side bounces off the ejector. Too big a gap and the case just floats.

Good pictures would show us more than the receipt which I can't read other than polish the hammer. The idea there is to remove the tip that catches. What year is your pistol? You tell this by the two letter code on the right side of the chamber area. AK, BA, BB, etc.

I don't have a problem with cleaning, lubing and firing a P22 with exception of one item. The trigger bar ears. If they are sharp they will gouge the slide immediately. These are all pretty easy mods for most folks.....with exception of the breech block/safety bar mod. That is easy for folks that are good at this kind of work. If your ears are polished, clean and lube and do some shootin. Any issues, tell us about them and we will see what we can do.

Thunderbolts are bad for leading the barrel, Federal bulk is marginally powerful enough. CCI mini mags and almost everyone's favorite bulk....Remington Golden Bullets. I don't car what the general consensus is regarding this ammo.....P22s like em. Good luck. Join in the fun here and put up some pictures of the work. M1911

Last edited by 1917-1911M; 04-14-2012 at 11:54 AM.
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Old 04-14-2012, 11:55 AM   #4
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The work was done by "Ahlman's" (Morristown, MN). I'm not 100% sure of the technician's name which did the P22 work so I don't want to publish a name which might not be correct.

I'm also looking for feedback from here since I don't think I'm qualified myself to judge good gunsmith work from poor.

Here are some photos. Note: these are after the tech fired 25 test rounds and after I fired 50 test rounds.

These photos show the hammer. The third photo also shows that the ears did get polished (looks nice to me).
Attached Images
File Type: jpg P22_Hammer_01_After_Gunsmith.jpg (102.3 KB, 87 views)
File Type: jpg P22_Hammer_02_After_Gunsmith.jpg (140.2 KB, 74 views)
File Type: jpg P22_Ears_03_After_Gunsmith_800x574.jpg (72.4 KB, 91 views)
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Old 04-14-2012, 12:02 PM   #5
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The year is "BB" (I purchased it a week ago).

Here are more photos (again, remember I haven't cleaned it yet).

Notice on the third "feedramp" photo there appears to be wear on the rail to the left of the barrel.

On the fourth photo (slide) it appears to be chewed up quite a bit. I had inspected it before taking it to the gunsmith and there was just the one nick from the single factory test round (virtually I identical to what is published in the P22 Bible), now it appears to have taken quite a bit of abuse.

The whole point of having the work done before firing it was to spare the parts from the abuse.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg P22_Feedramp_06_After_Gunsmith.jpg (71.3 KB, 66 views)
File Type: jpg P22_Feedramp_07_After_Gunsmith.jpg (81.1 KB, 55 views)
File Type: jpg P22_Feedramp_08_After_Gunsmith.jpg (104.0 KB, 59 views)
File Type: jpg P22_Slide_05_After_Gunsmith.jpg (91.6 KB, 70 views)
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Old 04-14-2012, 01:07 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred99 View Post
The year is "BB" (I purchased it a week ago)...
Quote:
Originally Posted by searcher451 View Post
Walther's method for marking the date of pistols with two letters:

A = 0
B = 1
C = 2
D = 3
E = 4
F = 5
G = 6
H = 7
I = 8
K = 9
So, the model was made in 2011.
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Old 04-14-2012, 01:16 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by vpnavy View Post
So, the model was made in 2011.
Yes, apparently they must not fly off the store shelves as fast as you might think. In any case, it was new and it was manufactured recently (not years ago).
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Old 04-14-2012, 01:58 PM   #8
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I've been looking - haven't found one thread mentioning BC (2012) yet.
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Old 04-14-2012, 04:08 PM   #9
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I haven't seen a picture of a BC either. To really get a bit closer to the date of manufacture...if that is of any significance you can look at the date on the little envelope containing the spent case that comes with the pistol. Other than the P22Q there hasn't been much of any changes and the Q is mostly cosmetic with exception of the additional slots on the rail and the integrated laser on that model.

Fred, it is a little difficult to see the work that was done. The hammer received very little work regarding rounding the hammer tip but fire it 500 times to see if you are having any issues. I have some pretty good pictures in some of the threads showing the proper amount of rounding.

Beginning in '09 Walther began chamfering the chamber entrance. The problem was they chamfered the entire perimeter rather than just the bottom from 4:30 to 7:30. In the process they cut the steel too thin at the extractor cut and some of the steel there was breaking off into the chamber. I have one this occurred on.

Your ears look sorta good. It is hard to tell. There is a glare on the part that we need to see. The top, front edge of each ear is the only part that touches the slide. Not the rear of the ears or the bottoms. Yours appear to be good but it is hard to tell from the photos ( glare and angle) I will admit, I have trouble taking a good photo of the same and usually take about 20 and select the best one.

Make sure the pistol is cleaned thoroughly from the work, filings, grit, etc., relube and start shooting. It isn't going to fall apart. If the hammer catches the slide we can then deal with that. You are going to get some indentation under the slide no matter how good the ears are. That is normal and there is nothing you can do about it. Sharp ears that shave zinc off the slide with every shot is another story. I couldn't see much on the ejector or extractor regarding work. M1911
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Old 04-14-2012, 04:28 PM   #10
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Thanks, I'll have more of an idea how it's working after I've had a good range session with it and have fired off a few hundred rounds. The only urgency was to make sure those ears weren't doing permanent damage and from the looks of the slide I have concerns the work wasn't done well enough. but I also suspect the extra wear may have been from the gunsmith firing it before doing the work (I don't know if he did, but that's my suspicion).
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