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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Orchard Park, NY
Posts: 418
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Well....coupla things....
1.) I may have to rethink my answer whether or not the spring with its end-pieces was able to slide more forward to be removed, once the extractor was out. Like I said, I actually removed and re-inserted the spring and its end-pieces from the rear also. 2.)It seems the front removal requires you to "lift" the spring a bit. All told, this is still good...as the spring does not need to move any more forward than its "installed" position. Using Method 2, when you slide the extractor back in...you slide the extractor's "shaft" on the slide's cut-out surface toward the rear, and with a wiggle-and-lift and a push toward the rear....it "snaps" into place with the "stepped-end" of the spring-end overlapping the "ledge" of the extractor. Last edited by IPSC; 07-07-2011 at 09:18 AM. |
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#12 |
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Supporting Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Western N.C.
Posts: 493
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Great post IPSC, I had my slide apart today to replace an extractor spring & I like Tanfoglio's way best, but is hard on my thumb to push the extractor in against spring pressure. It hurts so I cut a small piece of business card & folded it over several times to make a thumb pad & pushed it right in. I've had that problem every time & this really helped.
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#13 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Orchard Park, NY
Posts: 418
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Good deal Gene....no way was my post meant to be an "end-all" to this topic...we can add "builds" and ideas to the main post. As long as it ends up helping people as a tutorial.....
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#14 |
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Supporting Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: iowa
Posts: 361
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it is good info... i was and still am a little confused as to why mine will not pop out the extractor side.
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#15 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Orchard Park, NY
Posts: 418
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Brobs:
If this still bothers you.....try these things... 1.) Remove from rear....look into the "channel" it came out of...make sure it is clean...run a Q-tip thru it, etc. 2.) As you put it back in....with the spring-end toward the extractor having the stepped-in piece facing inward ( semi-circular piece facing outward)....then see if it can be pulled from the front. If not, my recollection is fuzzy too if I can do it...but I seem to recall you may need to "lift" the spring-end away from the pistol to allow further forward motion. |
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#16 |
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Supporting Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: iowa
Posts: 361
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that makes sense..
i didn't try it too hard. i was just surprised when i removed the extractor and the plunger wouldn't come out that end. |
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#17 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Orchard Park, NY
Posts: 418
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Here is *great* cross-post from the Browning guys on "RimfireCentral" web group....talking about removing an extractor from a Browning 22LR pistol. The parallels are very close to the Walther....notice the extractor design and the spring end-piece that fits on the rear edge of the extractor, just like the Walther. And the photo showing the end piece rotated correctly with the "flat" facing inward toward the pistol, as this flat piece will "cover" the end of the extractor and keep it in place---->
Removing and Replacing the Extractor - RimfireCentral.com Forums |
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#18 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 1
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Thanks for this, saved my butt figuring out the assembly once I blindly disassembled!
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#19 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Wyandotte, MI
Posts: 66
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Great thread. Thanks!
__________________
Manurhin PP (Defaced for importation purposes) |
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#20 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 578
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Worth watching very useful Info. if ever needed.
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