PPK newbie: What things should I look for before I buy?

[silencedppk]

Hello,
I am about to buy a PPK.
It's from 1973.
I wanted to ask what are the main things I should be careful inspecting it before buying it ?
thank you

[Milspec]

Originally Posted by silencedppk

Hello,
I am about to buy a PPK.
It's from 1973.
I wanted to ask what are the main things I should be careful inspecting it before buying it ?
thank you

Welcome to Watherforums! Here's what I'd check...

What type of PPK is it? Is it stainless or blue? What caliber is it? What percentage of blue is remaining...is there any pitting (or scratches or gouging on a stainless)? Does it have the box, accessories, instruction manual, and test target? Does it have both magazines, one with a finger extension? Are the grips original to the gun...are there any chips or cracks?

Check the sights and barrel crown for obvious damage. Do a compete function check according to the instructions in the manual (available online from Walther USA). Be sure the hammer drop safety works correctly and clicks easily on and off. Check the magazines for dents and function...the follower should move freely without binding (I'd take them apart and check the springs). The slide should lock back on both empty mags.

Remove the slide and check the recoil spring. With the safety off, push the firing pin in from the rear to be sure it's not broken and the tip isn't chipped. Check the indicator pin by pushing it up and in...should return under light spring pressure. The extractor should move freely under strong spring tension...be sure the tip isn't broken or chipped.

Make sure the frame has all of its little parts. The trigger guard shouldn't be dinged and the spring should be working. The barrel hood, chamber and rifling should be free of damage or pitting. The feed ramp should be free of gouges or damage. The hammer should move freely in concert with the hammer block. Check the ejector/slide stop...no chips or damage with the spring in place and working.

That's just what pops into my head sitting here at the computer...you can be sure there's a lot I've missed. Your best bet is to take it to a gunsmith to be fully checked. Test fire it before buying if you can...or ask if you can return it if it doesn't work right. Good luck...

[searcher451]

Nice reply, Milspec; that has all the makings of a Sticky, seeing as how this question pops up from time to time.

A test-drive is ideal, although it is not always practical, especially with an internet purchase. And given some of the issues that we have seen with recent models, an emphasis on examining the pistol's safety function, to ensure that it is in proper working order, is a must. I also would recommend reading the owner's manual first, gaining a better understanding of how the model is supposed to work, and then carefully walking your way through the operation of the gun in question, step by step, matching the performance of the actual pistol to what is described in the manual.

The PPK is a wonderful model of craftsmanship and efficiency and style. A gun that has been properly cared for should provide you with many years of service. Good luck.

[Stan11]

Originally Posted by Milspec

Welcome to Watherforums! Here's what I'd check...

What type of PPK is it? Is it stainless or blue? What caliber is it? What percentage of blue is remaining...is there any pitting (or scratches or gouging on a stainless)? Does it have the box, accessories, instruction manual, and test target? Does it have both magazines, one with a finger extension? Are the grips original to the gun...are there any chips or cracks?

Check the sights and barrel crown for obvious damage. Do a compete function check according to the instructions in the manual (available online from Walther USA). Be sure the hammer drop safety works correctly and clicks easily on and off. Check the magazines for dents and function...the follower should move freely without binding (I'd take them apart and check the springs). The slide should lock back on both empty mags.

Remove the slide and check the recoil spring. With the safety off, push the firing pin in from the rear to be sure it's not broken and the tip isn't chipped. Check the indicator pin by pushing it up and in...should return under light spring pressure. The extractor should move freely under strong spring tension...be sure the tip isn't broken or chipped.

Make sure the frame has all of its little parts. The trigger guard shouldn't be dinged and the spring should be working. The barrel hood, chamber and rifling should be free of damage or pitting. The feed ramp should be free of gouges or damage. The hammer should move freely in concert with the hammer block. Check the ejector/slide stop...no chips or damage with the spring is in place and working.

That's just what pops into my head sitting here at the computer...you can be sure there's a lot I've missed. Your best bet is to take it to a gunsmith to be fully checked. Test fire it before buying if you can...or ask if you can return it if it doesn't work right. Good luck...

Very well done. And very useful. Why not to put this into PP FAQ?

[searcher451]

Good plan, Stan. We'll leave it here for a time so that more folks can chime in before moving it up top. How about it, PP/PPK experts?

[Pdx boatjockey]

Wow....great info! I would add, as Searcher suggests (especially if new to Walthers); READ all you can about them. It's immensely helpful as you "shop" for one and it's fascinating to learn about this fabulous breed of weaponry!

[Stan11]

BTW, may be we could extend it a littlewith advices on buying new S&W PPK.
As per my experience this would be:
1. check if you can remove the slide (field-strip) without too much effort. If it does not come off when you pull it fully back this means recoil spring is too long.
2. Take a snap cap, put it into chamber and make sure it sits tight and not too lose.
If it 'wobbles' in the chamber even a little bit, the chamber is oversized.

[halfmoonclip]

A very patient gunshop owner allowed a Walther rookie to handcycle a magazine of .22s thru' a brand new PPK/s, allowing the live rounds to bounce into the garbage can. He then sold me the gun for $75, and later gave me $85 on a trade for a Chief's Special. Doubt any shop would let you do that nowadays...but the field strip and magazine exam should pass muster, at least in a shop that sells some old guns.
Good summary, MilSpec.
Moon

[MGMike]

Originally Posted by Stan11

...
2. Take a snap cap, put it into chamber and make sure it sits tight and not too lose.
If it 'wobbles' in the chamber even a little bit, the chamber is oversized.

How do you know the snap cap is not undersized?

M

[Stan11]

Originally Posted by MGMike

How do you know the snap cap is not undersized?

M

Very good logic. I am not fat, my scale is just lying to me
How do I know? Like this?