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Old 05-10-2009, 11:43 AM   #1
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Vital information for all P22 owners

All P22 owners should download the P22 Bible PDF.

http://www.freespeech.com/1917-1911M_P22_bible.pdf

Here are a few more specific websites -

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...d.php?t=100700

http://forum.pafoa.org/pistols-41/42...-p22-help.html

http://www.id-ord.com/archives/41

If you have any questions about P22's, the rimfirecental forum is THE place for answers.

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...splay.php?f=48

It is suggested that you polish the 'ears' on the trigger bar and hammer strut.

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...d.php?t=152384
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Old 05-17-2009, 09:37 PM   #2
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Thanks for the really great links!
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Old 10-05-2009, 11:48 PM   #3
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There are a lot more threads on the P22 at RFC than listed above. I have done one on a pictorial of the internal function of fire control parts. One on what I have found that need modding on a '09 AK model including the sloppy job someone along the line is doing on chamfering the chamber entrance and in the process removing too much metal from the extractor cut. There is a thread on the weekly occurring problem of " my P22 will only fire in SA or the hammer is catching on the safety notch", there is a magazine history thread. The two bad magazines are the originals which have no rim stagger slot and the '06 short slot "A" suffix mags. All long slot "A" suffix and "B" mags are good....the only bad news...'09 guns now only come with 1 mag.

Over the years Walther has made some improvements. The barrel nut comes with an "O" ring to help it stay put. The slide return spring has been lengthened 1/4" to aid in the slide returning and to cushion the impact of the slide against the takedown stop lever. A new extractor has been installed to reduce the gap but my new AK model had an original extractor in it... The new B mags have a serial number stamped on them, thanks California, I'm sure that cost us more, the B mags have thicker metal so the lips retain their shape better.

The frame screws and safety lever screws have some sort of locktite on them to keep them in place. The safety levers have been tightened up and no longer rotate when the hammer drags over the safety. The hammer tip was re-profiled in an attempt to keep the hammer tip from catching in the gap between the breech block and safety bar but Walther didn't get the angle quite right and the hammer face still benefits slide closure from a slight reprofile to eliminate this new point. All roll pins with exception of the extractor pin are now alligator tooth pins and they will stay put.

Walther is offering the pistol with a variety of polymer housing colors and textures but all in all a new P22 is 99% the same as an '02 model and the only parts that will damage the P22 are the still sharp trigger bar ears. Someone has been polishing on them as of late but they haven't gotten that right either. Check my thread on my new AK P22 at RFC to see pictures of all this. And, be safe and keep shooting.

And anything I ever post you guys are free to do with as you please. Copy the pictures, do whatever. Just glad I can be of help. Plenty of other folks help me with this and that. M1911
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Old 01-05-2010, 07:12 PM   #4
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I downloaded your P22 Bible and need to thank you for putting together such a clear and comprehensive document. The pictures were fantastic and quite helpful. I can't remember the last time I shot my P22 and got through a magazine without a ftf. I had never broken the pistol down beyond a fieldstrip for cleaning before reading your post. Apprehensively, and only because I was at my wits end, I followed some of your suggested modifications (files and Dremmel in hand) and my last trip to the range was fantastic! Not a single failure to feed!

Thusly Sir, I sincerely thank you for bringing life back to a pistol that would have otherwise lived out its days at the bottom of my safe.
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Old 01-24-2010, 10:00 PM   #5
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Thanks for the info. I just got a p22 and I read the bible three times. My new gun came fully lubricated but the slide was rough moving forward. Like too much friction. I looked at where the hammer drags and saw the wear markings. I used a product called TRI Flow ( oil with Teflon particals suspended in it) where the hammer drags. It was like a switch! Slide glides like butter. 200 rds at the range today without a hitch.
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Old 01-25-2010, 05:19 PM   #6
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sprat .22
I will say it again incase you missed it there is no need to make modifications or change parts to your P-22, just use mini mags or stingers and lube the pistol with moly or other firearms oils and fire a few hundred rounds. the problems only occur when one becomes cheap and refuses to use the more expensive ammo
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Old 01-25-2010, 09:20 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sprat View Post
... the problems only occur when one becomes cheap and refuses to use the more expensive ammo
sprat
Actually the problems occur only when becomes cheap and refuses to buy a real gun...

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Old 02-07-2010, 10:26 PM   #8
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Here is a picture thread on the internal components and operation of a P22. Safe shootin. M1911

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...d.php?t=261223
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Old 02-09-2010, 10:33 PM   #9
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Great stuff!
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Old 02-09-2010, 11:47 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RHCP View Post
Great stuff!
You like that RHCP. Check out this trigger overtravel stop. Just a small drop of JB Weld applied to the rear of the trigger. Let it hang down to harden then a little filing until reliable action is achieved in DA and SA. M1911



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