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Old 02-09-2010, 11:50 PM   #11
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1917-1911M .22
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Originally Posted by sprat View Post
I will say it again incase you missed it there is no need to make modifications or change parts to your P-22, just use mini mags or stingers and lube the pistol with moly or other firearms oils and fire a few hundred rounds. the problems only occur when one becomes cheap and refuses to use the more expensive ammo
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Old 02-10-2010, 10:32 PM   #12
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RHCP .22
Nice picture work. What symptom does the stop help correct?
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Old 05-13-2010, 03:37 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by RHCP View Post
What symptom does the stop help correct?
Anyone know the answer to this? I'm curious too.
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Old 09-29-2010, 12:17 PM   #14
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azmark .22
lube

I use CLP for almost everything. Is this good enough to keep a P22 chugging along?
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Old 02-07-2011, 11:39 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by RHCP View Post
Nice picture work. What symptom does the stop help correct?
There isn't really an issue here. But many target pistols are adjustable for pre-travel and over-travel. Taking out some of the excess forward movement of the trigger beyond what is necessary for reliable resetting and excess movement rearward makes for smoother shooting, sometimes eliminates trigger finger pinch on some pistols, keeps your trigger finger a bit further from the mag release if you have big fingers. It also allows faster follow up but the biggest difference to me is that it makes the trigger/sear feel much smoother and crisp.

Pre-travel is possible but a little more problematic due to the shape of the front of the trigger inside the frame. On DAO self defense pistols you should always have plenty of excess movement so that your pistol will absolutely reset and release the hammer. This is not so important on a plinker and you can actually adjust the trigger where it stops almost immediately after breaking the sear from the hammer. The trigger just breaks and doesn't move any more toward the rear. It just feels good and is something experienced in higher precision trigger assemblies. M1911
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Old 02-07-2011, 11:52 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by azmark View Post
I use CLP for almost everything. Is this good enough to keep a P22 chugging along?
Here is my 2 cents on that. CLP is an excellent lubricant and I use it on about everything but my P22. Whether or not it is a good lubricant on the P22 depends on a couple of things like....how much do you shoot and how much do you shoot between cleanings?

I wore out my first P22, an '03 or '04 model in 4,000 rounds using Tetra gun grease and Hoppes #9. I cleaned it regularly but fired it a lot, 500, 1000 times at a sitting sometimes. Then wear at the slide grooves and frame rails took it down. I monkeyed around with it for another 4,000 rounds, modifying this and that to keep it running like sear work to allow the hammer to keep being cocked, slide stop arm work to allow the arm to reach high enogh to catch the ever rising slide. And then it was shot.

The problem was that oil and grease will collect spent particles of carbon, powder, grit and make a lapping compound that will eat the zinc rails and grooves up. So, after a lot of testing and taking micrometer measurements of a new pistol, then measurements every 500 rounds at critical wear areas I found that cleaning with Gunscrubber, blow dry......give the entire inside a good spraying with Remington Remoil with Teflon, blow dry and then I rub a little "dry" powdered moly on wear surfaces. After over 25,000 rounds my micrometer could detect no wear, even measuring to 0.001". The moly apparently does not allow opposing zinc components to touch.

If you use oil, I would wipe off all excess. One guy who has over 100,000 rounds on his suppressed pistol never does anything to it. No oil, grease, or moly. He took off the slide and pictured the inside one time after I asked to see this. It looked exactly like what you would think. Completely filled with junk but apparently zinc is a good lubricant in and of itself. I couldn't treat even a plinker like that though. M1911
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Old 04-12-2012, 09:22 AM   #17
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Fred99 .22
I'm wondering if the (factory new) P22 has been improved any (now that it's 2012) and are the mods in the "P22 Bible" still recommended?
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Old 04-12-2012, 10:26 AM   #18
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MD426 .22
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Originally Posted by Fred99 View Post
I'm wondering if the (factory new) P22 has been improved any (now that it's 2012) and are the mods in the "P22 Bible" still recommended?
My P22Q (2011) still had the ear problem along with the drag on the hammer/slide. I'm pretty sure they will still have those 2 problems.

Last edited by MD426; 04-12-2012 at 10:28 AM.
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Old 04-12-2012, 10:55 AM   #19
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Fred99 .22
Thanks MD426, my plan is to have my gunsmith do the "P22 Bible" fixes before I even fire the P22. I just wanted to make sure I was well informed before I discuss it with the gunsmith tomorrow and schedule the work. Unfortunately that means I'm probably going to have to wait a month before I can play with my new "toy".
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Old 04-14-2012, 01:30 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Fred99 View Post
Thanks MD426, my plan is to have my gunsmith do the "P22 Bible" fixes before I even fire the P22. I just wanted to make sure I was well informed before I discuss it with the gunsmith tomorrow and schedule the work. Unfortunately that means I'm probably going to have to wait a month before I can play with my new "toy".
You can check for these problems prior to taking to the gun smith. Be sure your firearm is unloaded and breech is clear. Take off your slide. You can see the trigger bar ears just behind the slide release. If they look to be pointed like in the bible it will need smoothing out. Also you can manually cycle the slide a couple of time and check both the hammer and under side of the slide to see if they are contacting un-evenly, it will show drag markings on one side or another.
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