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Old 08-28-2014, 10:56 PM   #61
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You worry too much.

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Old 08-29-2014, 03:15 AM   #62
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You worry too much.

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You are probably right. But we are talking about a catastrophic slide failure, not just a slide not returning to battery. I just had cataract surgery on my eyeball and I don't want parts of a P38 slide being forcefully inserted into it and ruining all the Doctor's delicate work.

[Moderator Comment]: Questions regarding WWII P.38's go in this Sticky: A warning to those who want to shoot WWII-vintage P.38s
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Old 08-29-2014, 08:47 AM   #63
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You are probably right. But we are talking about a catastrophic slide failure, not just a slide not returning to battery. I just had cataract surgery on my eyeball and I don't want parts of a P38 slide being forcefully inserted into it and ruining all the Doctor's delicate work.

...
Even if the slide breaks completely in two on both sides, because of the arrangement of the recoil spring buttresses, it can't fly backward off the frame.

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Old 08-29-2014, 12:21 PM   #64
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Even if the slide breaks completely in two on both sides, because of the arrangement of the recoil spring buttresses, it can't fly backward off the frame.

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Maybe not. But I don't want to lose any fingers either.
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Old 08-29-2014, 07:11 PM   #65
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I'm liking this thread...pro or con...I'm learning. After all...isn't that the point of the
blog? This is better than watching TV. Hopefully next weekend I will fire the 60 P-1 with the new fat slide that replaced the original skinny slide that cracked on both sides at the cutouts...without *gulp* checking headspace.
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Old 08-29-2014, 07:19 PM   #66
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SgtPppr: Could we get photos to go with the thread? Specifically, shots of the cracked slide and the new one? Also, since it cracked after less than 1200 rounds can you tell us what type of ammo you fired? Any reloads or +P or just target? Thanks.
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Old 08-29-2014, 09:35 PM   #67
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Absolutely...I will make it a priority to get some shots this weekend. It's my own fault for not having a decent camera in this day and age...I just never take
take pictures...but I need to change that. As I said, just following this thread has helped me a great deal in learning about my P-1 and I appreciate that.
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Old 09-01-2014, 02:00 PM   #68
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Finally...some pics. Followed the instructions by PilotSteve...pretty easy. I may have left them a little big as they average 800 kb. For a quick history, bought the 1960 P-1 with skinny slide and no hex bolt approximately three years ago and put MAYBE 1000-1200 rounds through it. Never any problems except a few feeding issues which was remedied with a new clip. Here is something I just remembered this past weekend, however.
I always fired 115 gr. Winchester white box and Federal ammo. There was a period where I couldn't find ANY brass 9mm in town or online...so I bought and shot about three boxes of TULA steel case. Was that the culprit that cracked my slide? Is it loaded hotter than American ammo? It certainly couldn't be the same pressures as +P could it?
I don't normally buy the steel case ammo except to fire in a certain Russian iconic firearm. Anyway, hope these pics work.
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Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMAG0012_zpse660bdf2.jpg (59.9 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg IMAG0011_zps1233a7fe.jpg (66.5 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg IMAG0010_zpsa0480b17.jpg (65.5 KB, 13 views)
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Old 09-01-2014, 09:39 PM   #69
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There is no telling what this pistol was subjected to before the OP bought it. A photo of the frame s/n might reveal if the pistol was rebuilt.

It's hopeless at this point to try to isolate what caused the cracks. Put a new slide on it; refit the locking bloc and check the headspace, and move on.

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Old 09-04-2014, 10:24 AM   #70
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Sticky Information

Thank you to all who participated in developing this Sticky. We'll be closing it now to do some editing. If you wish to add information in the meantime please contact me or Searcher451. Thank you.
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