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Old 08-19-2014, 03:12 AM   #21
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I think I will side with MGMike on the headspacing thing. I doubt very much that the Russian rebuilds are all checked for proper headspace and I haven't seen any problems reported in that area. On a rifle, I would agree. I have headspace gauges for both my 98K rifles and my Russian Mosin Nagant rifles.
I check all of them before taking them to the range. All have passed so far.
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Old 08-20-2014, 11:00 PM   #22
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MGMike,

Now that I have my new "fat" slide for my 60 P-1, do you think I should get new
recoil springs as well? I had no problem with them with my original skinny slide that cracked, just wasn't sure if the beefier slide would work as well. Not sure if they are original. I'm sure they must have been replaced at some point, I just don't know when.
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Old 08-20-2014, 11:20 PM   #23
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I would say yes. It can't hurt. Especially if you don't know the round count.
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Old 08-21-2014, 11:21 AM   #24
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Have you put it all together yet? When you pull the slide back is the pull just a hard as your non fat slide was or lighter. If the springs feel good I would not replace them until I really needed to.
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Old 08-21-2014, 12:12 PM   #25
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In the majority of cases, the cracked slide will be caused by weak springs wearing out the slide over time. Why risk premature wear on your new slide? New springs are not all that expensive. Certainly cheaper than buying another new slide or subjecting your gun to needless battering. You will also ensure things like failing to go completely into battery won't occur.
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Old 08-21-2014, 08:25 PM   #26
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Good point Dep. Might as well replace them.
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Old 08-21-2014, 10:10 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deputy View Post
In the majority of cases, the cracked slide will be caused by weak springs wearing out the slide over time. ...
That is one of those "facts" that is reasonable, logical and indisputable...but wrong.

C'mon Dep, be brave, we need a hero! Tread heavily where no one else has ever dared explore. Read the stickies and FAQs.

M

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Old 08-21-2014, 10:43 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MGMike View Post
That is one of those "facts" that is reasonable, logical and indisputable...but wrong.

C'mon Dep, be brave, we need a hero! Tread heavily where no one else has ever dared explore. Read the stickies and FAQs.

M
Sorry Mike, but I read it and I don't agree with it. I also go my own way about removing the recoil springs.
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Old 08-21-2014, 10:58 PM   #29
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MGMike .38
Okay, fine.

But I suggest to you that in the list of things that might cause a P38/P12 slide to crack at a corner of the locking block recess (which is where 95% of them that crack do), a supposedly "weak" recoil spring is way down at the bottom.

The stress applied to the slide at that location occurs while the barrel and slide are still locked together, before any recoil spring --strong or weak--has compressed more than 1/4 inch. The barrel will be halted a short distance thereafter by the frame, while the slide continues on against the recoil springs until it is halted by the pins nested inside the recoil springs hitting the extreme rear of the frame.

Don't take my word for it. Take it apart and study it for yourself.

M
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Old 08-22-2014, 12:24 AM   #30
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Dep, Mike's words here are almost prophetic. I could actually visualize the mechanism cycling in my mind's eye while reading the above post. He is correct, and it works out physically. Take the slide and barrel off your P.38, and reassemble the barrel into the slide only. Push the locking block up, and work the mechanism.

It'll click. It's brilliant, and I will steadfastly hold to my belief that this system of energy management is superior to the Browning mechanism. I don't like "tilting" barrels for reasons I cannot explain, and will forever covet my P.38 and especially P5 above almost everything else out there today.

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