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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 46
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Boo hoo P1 frame cracked
Shot my P1 today, I guess for the last time. When I took it down for cleaning, I found the frame cracked. The crack is in the area of the left side recoil spring guide, running about 1/2" either way (forward & aft) from the front tip of the recoil guide.
It was a BW-marked pistol with the slide marked "7/81" and it had the hex pin. I never shot any +P or +P+ ammo in it, or tried to remove the recoil springs. Got it used at a gun shop, so no telling what happened before. I only put about 500 rounds through it the whole time I've had it, 100 of those today. I'm pretty sure I'd have notice the crack if it had been there when I cleaned it after the last time I shot it. It did well today, though. 80 rounds aimed at the X-ring - 2 mags one-handed from 4 yards, 3 mags two-handed from 7 yards, 2 mags from 10y, 3 mags from 15y: 1 hit in the 7 ring, 10 in the 8 ring, the rest within the 9 ring but couldn't score because the center was shot out. Then I put 20 with slow fire at the head from 7 yards - all in a group that could be covered with my fist. I came away quite pleased with it. I guess I'll need to get another & old Fritz is spare parts. Do the Germans play taps? Edit: Looks like Sarco might have frames, so maybe I can rebuild it, make it better than it was... (but I'm not spending $6 million). Last edited by Barnacle Bill; 02-20-2012 at 10:08 PM. Reason: Addition |
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#2 |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 2,407
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Sorry to hear about the cracked frame. Hope you're able to find a replacement. What bullet weight have you been firing? I doubt it mattered...just curious.
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Milspec |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: North of Boston
Posts: 176
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Get another one from Sarco and put it back together.
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#4 |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 46
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#5 |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 46
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I have an email off to them, but...
Do you know if thiose are new or used? If they came out of old beat up guns they might just be about to fail themselves. They also have "Late reinforced WWII P-38" frames for $30 more. I presume those are steel. It's going to be a Frankengun anyway, so would it be possible to use one of those instead of an alloy P1 frame? Seems that might make a more durable shooter. |
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#6 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 64
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Sorry man!
Do what you have to do to get up and running!! |
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: North of Boston
Posts: 176
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It will be a mismatch anyway. Get the steel frame ww2. your upper will slide right on. Then go blast away and never worry about it again.
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#8 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 64
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This!! ^
I'd like to go steel frame too someday. |
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#9 |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Oregon
Posts: 11,409
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You might want to make sure that the two different era pistols, and the parts you want to marry between them, are compatible. It seems to me that MGMike has cautioned on more than once occasion in this section that they are not.
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: North of Boston
Posts: 176
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Searcher, that is for using different upper parts. The upper complete with a lower complete works fine. I have quite a few of these hybrids. a Post war upper must be postwar parts, a wartime upper must be wartime parts with a few small part exceptions.
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