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#71 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Lexington
Posts: 7
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Mine is at Bud's now on lay-a-way. Have half the money down. This was a not talked about purchase with wife. Might just fess up and pick it up Monday. I am exited and am looking forward to shooting this piece.
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#72 | |
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Supporting Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Washington State (the dry side)
Posts: 445
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Quote:
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__________________
"Was wären Ihre Männer lieber, müde oder tot?" - Rommel |
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#73 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Lexington
Posts: 7
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No I think I'll just smile real big. Thanks
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#74 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Lexington
Posts: 7
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Just picked it up at Buds a few minutes ago. Going to clean it . I will try and post some pictures later. Very nice, a little scuff on one side and two other minor marks that may come out. I need to understand this finish on the weapon first.
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#75 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 4
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Bud's P38
New to the forum but just purchased and received a P38/ "1" from Buds (actually dropped shipped from Legacy Sports out of Reno, NV). The pistol is marked P38 with the Walther logo, Ulm Germany stamp, and 10/62 on the opposite side of the slide. All of the numbers match except the mag. It also has what appears to be an outspread eagle proof mark with numbers stamped underneath on several spots on the pistol. Frankly, the numbers are too small to easily read so not sure what they are.
The gun is in very good condition and probably not fired (looked exceptionally clean when I took it apart for cleaning) but does show signs of almost 50 years of wear such as scuff marks and crackling of the finish on the slide as well as some deep scratches on the plastic grips. I took it out yesterday to fire and it operated flawlessly, although it seemed I had to readjust my aim pretty high on the front sight for accuracy. I was wondering if anyone knew the difference between the postwar P38 and P1 designation. In previous threads it sounded like anything after WWII by other a few months (French production?) was a P1 and that's it. Well, mine has P38 quite visible so perhaps a retail / commercial version? Also, mine does not have the hex pin reinforcement for the slide. Does anyone have an idea of after how many rounds shot folks started experiencing frame cracks? I know this is not an exact science by any measure but it would be nice to know if I am looking at 1000 or 10,000 before I start loosing sleep at night. Anyway, really enjoy the pistol - any questions regarding the transaction with Buds I am pleased to answer. |
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#76 | |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 7
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Shot mine this weekend. Nice to shoot, no issues at all
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#77 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 3
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Got all worked up and checked Bud's on-line, shows out of stock now.
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#78 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Lexington
Posts: 7
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Got mine! 2/80, has hex pin, no rework, fat slide, made for the Bundeswehr. Minor scuff and I guess a Parkerized finish. I never had a weapon with that finish. Any tips on taking care of this type?
I am going to go to the range at Buds today. Shot one in the '70's while stationed in the FRG. I left Deutschland before this one made! Beautiful weapon. |
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#79 | |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 4
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Quote:
Walther P1 9mm Semi Auto Pistol w/ Two Magzines & Holster, Used, Overall Excellent Condition. |
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#80 |
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Supporting Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Backwoods Virginia
Posts: 3,854
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The importance of the hex pin is much overemphasized. The fat slide is far more important, but the truth is that the absence of both is not a catastrophe, provided one uses sensible ammunition. These guns are half a century old. Treat them accordingly, and they will give you very respectable service. New recoil springs are not a high priority if they are not collapsed or kinked, but easy-to-chew ammunition for their old teeth is important.
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